Adjacent Areas
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Morning sun
Uphill
2 minsThe left-hand section is the well-named Long Wall, which is home to some reasonable short (and not so short) routes, mostly with grotty exits. An abseil descent is normal from the old fixed gear - care required. There is some good bouldering on the lower section of the face. Guidebook page 230.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Irish Jig 8m. The zigzagging crack to a choice of (dirty) exits. 1 user comment | VS 4c | |
2 |
Hadrian's Wall 8m. From the fallen block pull past the right edge of the ‘cave’ and use broken flakes to power up to the tree. | Crimpy | E1 5c |
3 |
Ash Tree Direct 6m. Take the crack to above the roof then head left to the tree. | S 4b | |
4 |
The Ramp 8m. The fingery wall eases as soon as ‘the ramp’ is reached. | VS 5b | |
5 |
Cancan 8m. A good jamming-crack leads to a slanting slab. Escape left up this or tackle the thin crack above to a sea of grot. | VS 5a | |
6 |
Elderberry Slab 10m. The diagonal ramp leads left all the way to the tree. | VD | |
7 |
Calypso Crack 6m. The sinuous and disjointed crack is tough to start. | VS 5a | |
8 |
Quickstep 6m. Pull over the overlap and climb the crack to tricky moves onto the slab above. | VS 5b | |
9 |
Fire-power 6m. The thin crack on tips jams and one good locker. | Crimpy | E1 6b |
10 |
Jive 12m. Climb onto a ledge then take the crack as it bends left towards the roof. Escape right round this to an awful exit. | HS 4b | |
11 |
Palais Glide 14m. Steep and pumpy. Climb the groove to the roof then layback round it. At the second roof move right again to finish. Iron... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Strong | VS 4c |
12 |
Fox-trot 14m. Climb straight into the leaning groove, at its top step out left and teeter across to the steep crack above and a sprint... | 1 Stars Technical | HVS 5a |
13 |
Mississippi Dip 14m. Follow the ramp to the groove on Fox-trot but pull onto a slab then exit out right to reach a crack. Up this to awkward... | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
14 |
A Stretch Named Desire 14m. Climb direct through the traverse of Long Wall Eliminate. Slink right at the top to the finish of Orchestral Crack. | Technical | E5 6b |
15 |
Long Wall Eliminate 14m. Climb the groove the tackle the fierce left-slanting crack to join and finish (with luck) up Mississippi Dip. | Technical | E3 6a |
16 |
Orchestral Crack 14m. The groove that bounds the wall, steeply, to an awkward exit at an old piece of angle iron. The better belay as for Three... | 1 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5a |
17 |
Three Notch Slab 12m. The classic of the crag - well sort of. Skip onto the ledge then cross the slab rightwards and layback up the arete to a... | 1 Stars | VS 4c |