The Long Wall

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Morning sun
2 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

The left-hand section is the well-named Long Wall, which is home to some reasonable short (and not so short) routes, mostly with grotty exits. An abseil descent is normal from the old fixed gear - care required. There is some good bouldering on the lower section of the face. Guidebook page 230.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Irish Jig
8m. The zigzagging crack to a choice of (dirty) exits.
1 user comment
 VS 4c
2
Hadrian's Wall
8m. From the fallen block pull past the right edge of the ‘cave’ and use broken flakes to power up to the tree.
 
Crimpy
E1 5c
3
Ash Tree Direct
6m. Take the crack to above the roof then head left to the tree.
 S 4b
4
The Ramp
8m. The fingery wall eases as soon as ‘the ramp’ is reached.
 VS 5b
5
Cancan
8m. A good jamming-crack leads to a slanting slab. Escape left up this or tackle the thin crack above to a sea of grot.
 VS 5a
6
Elderberry Slab
10m. The diagonal ramp leads left all the way to the tree.
 VD
7
Calypso Crack
6m. The sinuous and disjointed crack is tough to start.
 VS 5a
8
Quickstep
6m. Pull over the overlap and climb the crack to tricky moves onto the slab above.
 VS 5b
9
Fire-power
6m. The thin crack on tips jams and one good locker.
 
Crimpy
E1 6b
10
Jive
12m. Climb onto a ledge then take the crack as it bends left towards the roof. Escape right round this to an awful exit.
 HS 4b
11
Palais Glide
14m. Steep and pumpy. Climb the groove to the roof then layback round it. At the second roof move right again to finish. Iron...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
VS 4c
12
Fox-trot
14m. Climb straight into the leaning groove, at its top step out left and teeter across to the steep crack above and a sprint...
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS 5a
13
Mississippi Dip
14m. Follow the ramp to the groove on Fox-trot but pull onto a slab then exit out right to reach a crack. Up this to awkward...
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
14
A Stretch Named Desire
14m. Climb direct through the traverse of Long Wall Eliminate. Slink right at the top to the finish of Orchestral Crack.
 
Technical
E5 6b
15
Long Wall Eliminate
14m. Climb the groove the tackle the fierce left-slanting crack to join and finish (with luck) up Mississippi Dip.
 
Technical
E3 6a
16
Orchestral Crack
14m. The groove that bounds the wall, steeply, to an awkward exit at an old piece of angle iron. The better belay as for Three...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
17
Three Notch Slab
12m. The classic of the crag - well sort of. Skip onto the ledge then cross the slab rightwards and layback up the arete to a...
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
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  • Latest Comments

    For DEN LANE

    Palais Glide
    "crux is a nice layback move with a tricky move right to gain a stance. new bolts..." 17/Mar

    The Wilter
    "Perhaps that should be "select a way off carefully?". Or does it refer..." 22/Jun

    Irish Jig
    "The best finish (safest) is to move left to a small ledge above the first arete,..." 04/Mar

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