The Electric Quarry

Adjacent Areas
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Early morning sun
15 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

This quarry contains arguably the finest wall at Stoney, but in its least-pleasant setting. There is something surreal about climbing while there is the gentle hum of the electricity substation coming from behind you, but the intricate technical moves usually provide enough of a distraction.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Helmut Schmitt
Often top-roped, but better as a testing lead if you are up to it. Climb a small groove in the arete, then move right along the...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6
2
Roraima
The loose left-hand arete of the wall.
 HVS 5b
3
Cabbage Crack
The crack-line right of Helmut provides a fine workout. Steep and well-protected, the name is somewhat misleading as the crack...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E4
4
Jasper
The easiest line on the wall, but still solid at the grade. Start as for Cabbage, or harder and more directly, up the wall to...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E3
5
Oliver
One of the best routes at Stoney, with a great variety of bold and strenuous moves, and enough gear to make it safe - even if...
10 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4
6
Millionaire Touch
The first crack left of the corner gives a great pitch with a bit of a stopper move past a peg, the scene of much profanity,...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E4
7
The Heat
A top-rope eliminate which is seldom led. Start up the rib right of Jasper and join it below its crux. Climb this then swing...
 E5 6a
8
X Calibre
A poor eliminate. Start as for Millionaire, but move right below the roof. Climb direct (pegs) to the next break, where further...
 
Technical
Strong
E6
9
Brown Corner
The huge corner at the back of the quarry is usually too grotty to be enjoyable. If loads of people have been up the thing and...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
Loose
HVS
10
Icarus
The wide crack to a ledge (4a). Then traverse the higher horizontal break into the corner (5b). Continue along the same line to...
 E1 5b
11
Damocles
Strenuous and sustained climbing up the long crack-line. Often loose and dirty, but good when clean. Needs traffic.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Loose
E3
12
Golden Boy
The line to the left of Emotional Rescue following some faint crack-lines past 3 pegs. Dirty and rarely climbed.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5
13
One 'ard Move
The wall between Damocles and the corner joining the former before the top overlap.
 E6 6b
14
Emotional Rescue
A big pitch which is seldom attempted. An inspection is probably advisable, since the gear is marginal, and the peg poor....
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E5
15
John Peel
A reasonable old climb, but it is suffering from lack of traffic. Climb the long pumpy crack past a tricky bulge. Continue...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E2
16
Creeping Flesh
The wall right of John Peel is loose and escapable.
 
Fluttery
Loose
E4
17
Gollyberry
The thin crack right of the grotty corner.
 E2 5c
18
Psychopath
The grotty corner.
 E1 5b
19
Daedalus
The steep thin crack-line in the wall between Psychopath and the arete to the left. One peg and a single bolt belay.
 
Technical
E4 6a
20
Vicky
The narrow wall to the right of the wide crack and to the left of the ar?te.
 E1 5b