The Electric Quarry

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
15 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

This quarry contains arguably the finest wall at Stoney, but in its least-pleasant setting. There is something surreal about climbing while there is the gentle hum of the electricity substation coming from behind you, but the intricate technical moves usually provide enough of a distraction.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Helmut Schmitt
Often top-roped, but better as a testing lead if you are up to it. Climb a small groove in the arete, then move right along the...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6b
2
Roraima
The loose left-hand arete of the wall.
 HVS 5b
3
Cabbage Crack
The crack-line right of Helmut provides a fine workout. Steep and well-protected, the name is somewhat misleading as the crack...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E4 6a
4
Jasper
The easiest line on the wall, but still solid at the grade. Start as for Cabbage, or harder and more directly, up the wall to...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E3 6a
5
Oliver
One of the best routes at Stoney, with a great variety of bold and strenuous moves, and enough gear to make it safe - even if...
10 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4 6a
6
Millionaire Touch
The first crack left of the corner gives a great pitch with a bit of a stopper move past a peg, the scene of much profanity,...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E4 6b
7
The Heat
A top-rope eliminate which is seldom led. Start up the rib right of Jasper and join it below its crux. Climb this then swing...
 E5 6a
8
X Calibre
 
Technical
E6 6b
9
Brown Corner
The huge corner at the back of the quarry is usually too grotty to be enjoyable. If loads of people have been up the thing and...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
Loose
HVS 5a
10
Icarus
The wide crack to a ledge (4a). Then traverse the higher horizontal break into the corner (5b). Continue along the same line to...
 E1 5b
11
Damocles
Strenuous and sustained climbing up the long crack-line. Often loose and dirty, but good when clean. Needs traffic.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Loose
E3 5b
12
Golden Boy
The line to the left of Emotional Rescue following some faint crack-lines past 3 pegs. Dirty and rarely climbed.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6b
13
One 'ard Move
The wall between Damocles and the corner joining the former before the top overlap.
 E6 6b
14
Emotional Rescue
A big pitch which is seldom attempted. An inspection is probably advisable, since the gear is marginal, and the peg poor....
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E5 6b
15
John Peel
A reasonable old climb, but it is suffering from lack of traffic. Climb the long pumpy crack past a tricky bulge. Continue...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5b
16
Creeping Flesh
The wall right of John Peel is loose and escapable.
 
Fluttery
Loose
E4 6a
17
Gollyberry
The thin crack right of the grotty corner.
 E2 5c
18
Psychopath
The grotty corner.
 E1 5b
19
Daedalus
The steep thin crack-line in the wall between Psychopath and the arete to the left. One peg and a single bolt belay.
 
Technical
E4 6a
20
Vicky
The narrow wall to the right of the wide crack and to the left of the ar?te.
 E1 5b
  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone


  • Latest Comments

    For STONEY MIDDLETON

    What the Hell?
    "This is a really good route - even the lower wall is okay - but it isn't 4b. I'd..." 26/May

    Gabriel and the Pearly Gates
    "Returning to Pearly Gates after a few years confirmed my impression that it was ..." 24/Apr top50

    Horizon
    "Worthwhile route, though not worth a star." 22/Apr

    Evasor
    "The length given for p1 here (and in the new Peak Limestone Rockfax for which I ..." 17/Oct top50

    Pygmies Walk Tall
    "Was really impressed with this route though it would benefit from more traffic t..." 24/Sep

    Dies Irae
    "Very little wear on this, compared to many routes at Stoney. Rock still felt gri..." 28/Aug

    Lost Horizon
    "S 3c or HS 4a gives a better idea of the bold nature of the route. Some interest..." 02/Jul

    Compositae Groove
    "Pity about the first pitch but the second is probably the best of it's grade at ..." 16/Jun

    Fe Fi Fo Fum
    "A good one for your mate to do, "it's only HVS..."" 25/Jul

    Windhover
    "Felt a bit loose in places today. The start is hard, but there's a hidden crimp ..." 24/Jul

    Brown Corner
    "Steep and dirty but on big holds all the way. Take some large gear (hexs)" 09/Jul

    The Slurper
    "As mentioned above, first pitch to Slurper is poor. Hard initial moves, especial..." 08/Jul

    Cock-a-leekie Wall
    "Worthwhile route. Tough crux, getting on 6a, on the right of the scoop." 05/Jul

    Special K
    "A poor route. A few poorly protected pulls then a so so E2 5c to finish. The bes..." 27/Jun

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