Scot Buttress

Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill
10 mins
Sheltered

A smart looking buttress, probably the best at this end of the cliff. It is easily recognised by the converging cracks of Bawbee and Blaeberry - all very Scottish. The side wall of the buttress has three recognised routes. Guidebook page 203.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Vallum
5m. The left edge of the wall leads to a short wide crack.
 S 4a
2
Hadrian's Wall
5m. Foot-traverse the short slanting crack, then climb direct up the middle of the wall.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
HS 4b
3
Corner Direct Left-hand
6m. Head directly up the left-hand side of the arete.
 S 4a
4
Corner Direct Right-hand
6m. Climb into the recess of the nook and finish up the arete.
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
5
Nook and Cranny
7m. Climb right of the previous route to the nook, traverse right to the flake of the cranny and finish up this.
 
1 Stars
S 4a
6
Nook and Cranny Direct
7m. Start under the final flake-crack of the normal route, pull over the bulge and finish smartly up the cranny-crack.
 
1 Stars
Strong
HS 4b
7
Highland Fling
7m. The blunt rib leads to a tiny groove - scary. The cranny is to be avoided to get the grade.
 
Fluttery
E1 5b
8
Bawbee Crack
7m. Step off the block and climb the tricksome crack past the rattly chockstone of the 'Bawbee'.
 
1 Stars
HVD
9
Blaeberry Crack
7m. The left-slanting crack is followed to the junction.
 
1 Stars
D
10
Blaeberry Buttress Direct
7m. Straight up the wall immediately right of the slanting crack.
 HS 4b
11
Blaeberry Buttress
6m. Interesting and mild. Climb blocky ground then head diagonally left all the way to Blaeberry Crack using the sloping shelf...
 
1 Stars
Rounded
M
  • Latest Comments

    For SCUGDALE

    Main Mast Crack
    "Much to my disappointment (I'd even donned my Aldi thrutching jacket in preparat..." 23/Jul

    Pingers
    "Is this the only VS with a one finger pull-up?" 10/Dec

    The Shelf
    "A classic highball sprint." 25/Sep top50

    The Prow
    "'Lifting a Fridge'it couldn't be put any better!" 13/Sep top50

    Pets' Corner
    "Yeah, got to be worth 2 stars at least. Certainly one of the best routes I've do..." 12/Sep top50

    Pets' Corner
    "better than zeta wall" 12/Sep top50

    Prickly Rib
    "Up the left hand side of the rib, surely? Though might be HS up the right hand ..." 26/Jun

    The Bulkhead
    "More like VS 4c I reckon. The slightly overhanging finger crack at the top is da..." 19/Jun

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