Pisa and Scugdale Buttress

Trad
Lots of sun!
8 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

Pisa is the right-leaning buttress with the bulk of Drunken Buttress slumped against it (obviously in need of support). Right again is Scugdale Buttress, the main section of which is round to the right. Guidebook page 207.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Plumb Line
8m. The awkward tilted crack leads to the top of Drunken Buttress, finish up the left edge of the slab on the right.
 S 4a
2
Pisa Buttress
8m. Climb straight up the fingery wall to the break, trend right to reach a sloping ledge awkwardly then finish direct.
 
Crimpy
Rounded
VS 5a
3
Gravity Wall Direct
8m. A hybrid, but offering the best climbing on the face. Start up the previous climb and finish up the next one.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HS 4c
4
Gravity Wall
8m. Start up the arete and climb to the break then trend left crossing the face to finish at its top left edge.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HS 4b
5
Galileo's Gully
8m. Bridge the outside of the chimney. Delving into the depths is a scruffy Diff.
 S 4a
6
Tooth and Nail
8m. Climb the wall aiming for the thin hanging crack, then follow it on improving holds.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HS 4c
7
Supine
7m. From a block climb straight up the arete. Some of the holds feel a bit snappy.
 
Crimpy
VS 5a
8
Scugdale Chimney Eliminate Top 50
8m. Worthwhile and high in the grade. The narrow rib left of the chimney with a powerful pull over the overhang (good but worn...
 
2 Stars
Strong
VS 4c
9
Scugdale Chimney Top 50
8m. The banana-shaped chimney is a classic of its type.
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
VD
10
Scugdale Wall
8m. Climb the fingery flat wall right of the chimney until it bends over to meet you.
 
Crimpy
VS 4b
11
Zeta Wall
8m. Pull into the odd zig-zag crack system in the wall and follow it on improving holds. Harder than it used to be due to...
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
VS 4c
12
Deviator
6m. A tricky little critter up the corner and shallow groove above. Finish direct or out to the left.
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS 5c
13
Nameless Crack
5m. The widening crack just to the right doesn't see much attention, can't imagine why.
 
Graunchy
S 4a
  • Latest Comments

    For SCUGDALE

    Main Mast Crack
    "Much to my disappointment (I'd even donned my Aldi thrutching jacket in preparat..." 23/Jul

    Pingers
    "Is this the only VS with a one finger pull-up?" 10/Dec

    The Shelf
    "A classic highball sprint." 25/Sep top50

    The Prow
    "'Lifting a Fridge'it couldn't be put any better!" 13/Sep top50

    Pets' Corner
    "Yeah, got to be worth 2 stars at least. Certainly one of the best routes I've do..." 12/Sep top50

    Pets' Corner
    "better than zeta wall" 12/Sep top50

    Prickly Rib
    "Up the left hand side of the rib, surely? Though might be HS up the right hand ..." 26/Jun

    The Bulkhead
    "More like VS 4c I reckon. The slightly overhanging finger crack at the top is da..." 19/Jun

    Bonzo
    "One of your reachy symbols would suit this climb well." 31/May top50

    Stewker
    "Another route that has been responsible for more than its fair share of broken l..." 21/Apr

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