Broughton Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< None  |  The Steeple and the Needle >

Trad
Afternoon sun
25 mins
Uphill

The left-hand side of the cliff is the least popular, the routes are short and they don't get much sunshine so tend to be green. Good on hot days though.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Broughton Ridge
6m. Hop onto the polished arete from the left. Direct is 5a.
 
Rounded
VD
2
Bench Mark Crack
7m. The short corner is tricky.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HS 4b
3
Bench Mark Wall
7m. The tiny groove just right is almost always green.
 
Technical
E1 6a
4
Psycho Syndicate
8m. The desperate wall via a couple of peg scars.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E4 6b
5
Tiny's Arete Direct
8m. The taxing arete is started from the left.
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS 5b
6
Tiny's Dilemma Direct
8m. Climb the wall avoiding the crack to the right.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
HVS 5a
7
Tiny's Dilemma
8m. Climb the cracked corner until it is possible to stride left onto a good foothold. Continue direct.
 
1 Stars
S 4b
8
Morning Wall
6m. Balance up the centre of the delicate slab to a ledge and finish through the notch above.
 
1 Stars
S 4a
9
Rookery Nook
9m. A widening chimney to the ledge, move left under the roof to join the final moves of Tiny's Dilemma.
 VD
10
Green Wall
5m. Climb the wall (steep) using a thin crack. Often less green than it looks.
 HS 4c
11
Sheep Walk Slab
8m. A diagonal traverse heading up and right to finish up the short chimney on the right.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
M
12
Flake, Wall and Crack
6m. Start from a flake protruding from the lower end of the Sheep Walk. Clamber onto a ledge then climb the cracks above.
 
Pumpy
HS 4b
13
Solomon's Porch
6m. Start around the arete at the wide crack. Climb this until the arete on the left can be reached for a finish. A start up...
 
Pumpy
HS 4b
14
Lurch
6m. Leap and lurch up the arete just to the right. Loss of a holds has made this harder than it used to be.
 
Reachy
VS 5a
15
Humpty Dumpty
6m. From a finger-shaped block, climb the short slab then the sweet jamming crack above.
 
Pumpy
VD
  • Latest Comments

    For WAINSTONES

    East Sphinx Direct
    "I go with Franco @ HS 5b - hard move(s) all low down." 23/Sep

    North Route
    "The gear is sparse - a bad thread. You may find yourself soloing." 31/May top50

    West Sphinx Direct
    "had to piano play my fingers into the eye, felt like hard 5c to me at 5'7"...." 02/Oct top50

    Little Bo-Peep
    "it is easierb to nip across quickly rather than burn out placing gear higher up...." 18/Sep top50

    Tiny's Dilemma Direct
    "the start is SUPER polished took me a while to get onto the first footholds :S..." 14/Nov

    Steeple Groove
    "HVD is way overgraded. Its Diff in the NE England guide and that seems about rig..." 31/May

    Sesame
    "Seeing as this is E2, you may as well head left and tackle Ali Baba as the crux ..." 21/Apr

    East Sphinx Direct
    "i recon HS 5b" 19/Mar

    East Sphinx Direct
    "Nope, MVS. ;-)" 09/Mar

    East Sphinx Direct
    "So you are trying to say its Hard Sever then? CC" 09/Mar

    East Sphinx Direct
    "Oh no, what i meant was that VS always seemed a bit tough for what it is! ;-) ..." 09/Mar

    Search for comments