Adjacent Areas
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Lots of sun!
Uphill
25 minsWindy
The main south west-facing section of the Wainstones starts with a couple of nice buttresses, one steep and undercut and the other more slabby. Guidebook page 216.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Summit Crisis 12m. Climb the deep groove then finger traverse the thin crack rightwards to the good holds on Bird Lime. Continue right to the... | 1 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | E2 5c |
2 |
Bird Lime 8m. From atop a jutting block, pull onto the wall and climb rightwards (brittle flakes) to a pocket. Head leftwards to the top.... | 1 Stars Crimpy Fluttery | E3 5c |
3 |
Little Bo-Peep Top 50 12m. Excellent and airy. Climb the block in the gully then step up and traverse left out to the far arete; the tall can reach a... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | VS 4b |
4 |
Miss Muffet 8m. Follow Little Bo-Peep to the start of its traverse. Gird your loins then head up the steep shallow groove above. Short... | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
5 |
Cantilever 8m. Climb up the slab in the gully (as for the previous climbs) then continue up and over the outside of the big chockstone. | 1 Stars | VD |
6 |
Peel Out 8m. The desperate leaning wall of the gully is climbed using a series of shallow undercut finger-flakes. Finish up the arete. 1 user comment | Technical | E4 6b |
7 |
Ling Arete 8m. The right arete of Peel Out, on its left side, via a series of small steps. Awkward and with poor protection until a good... 1 user comment | Fluttery | HVS 5a |
8 |
Ling Buttress Top 50 10m. Climb into an A-shaped niche, stride awkwardly out of this onto the arete on the left then continue up this. A good climb,... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical | S 4a |
9 |
Groove and Crack 10m. Start in a right-slanting corner at the base of the buttress. Climb the corner and a short tricky groove (harder if the... | 1 Stars | S 4a |
10 |
Ling Corner 10m. Follow Groove and Crack until it starts to head left. From here continue straight up the left-hand side of the steep... | 1 Stars | HS 4a |
11 |
Falcon Rib 10m. Up the right side of the slabby rib to ledges, then head up and left to finish up the short narrow chimney in the right... | Rounded | D |
