Summit Buttress & Ling Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< The Steeple and the Needle  |  The Sphinx >

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Lots of sun!
25 mins
Uphill

The main south west-facing section of the Wainstones starts with a couple of nice buttresses, one steep and undercut and the other more slabby.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Summit Crisis
12m. Climb the deep groove then finger traverse the thin crack rightwards to the good holds on Bird Lime. Continue right to the...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
E2 5c
2
Bird Lime
8m. From atop a jutting block, pull onto the wall and climb rightwards (brittle flakes) to a pocket. Head leftwards to the top....
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
E3 5c
3
Little Bo-Peep Top 50
12m. Excellent and airy. Climb the block in the gully then step up and traverse left out to the far arete; the tall can reach a...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4b
4
Miss Muffet
8m. Follow Little Bo-Peep to the start of its traverse. Gird your loins then head up the steep shallow groove above. Short...
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
5
Cantilever
8m. Climb up the slab in the gully (as for the previous climbs) then continue up and over the outside of the big chockstone.
 
1 Stars
VD
6
Peel Out
8m. The desperate leaning wall of the gully is climbed using a series of shallow undercut finger-flakes. Finish up the arete.
1 user comment
 
Technical
E4 6b
7
Ling Arete
8m. The right arete of Peel Out, on its left side, via a series of small steps. Awkward and with poor protection until a good...
1 user comment
 
Fluttery
HVS 5a
8
Ling Buttress Top 50
10m. Climb into an A-shaped niche, stride awkwardly out of this onto the arete on the left then continue up this. A good climb,...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
S 4a
9
Groove and Crack
10m. Start in a right-slanting corner at the base of the buttress. Climb the corner and a short tricky groove (harder if the...
 
1 Stars
S 4a
10
Ling Corner
10m. Follow Groove and Crack until it starts to head left. From here continue straight up the left-hand side of the steep...
 
1 Stars
HS 4a
11
Falcon Rib
10m. Up the right side of the slabby rib to ledges, then head up and left to finish up the short narrow chimney in the right...
 
Rounded
D
  • Latest Comments

    For WAINSTONES

    East Sphinx Direct
    "I go with Franco @ HS 5b - hard move(s) all low down." 23/Sep

    North Route
    "The gear is sparse - a bad thread. You may find yourself soloing." 31/May top50

    West Sphinx Direct
    "had to piano play my fingers into the eye, felt like hard 5c to me at 5'7"...." 02/Oct top50

    Little Bo-Peep
    "it is easierb to nip across quickly rather than burn out placing gear higher up...." 18/Sep top50

    Tiny's Dilemma Direct
    "the start is SUPER polished took me a while to get onto the first footholds :S..." 14/Nov

    Steeple Groove
    "HVD is way overgraded. Its Diff in the NE England guide and that seems about rig..." 31/May

    Sesame
    "Seeing as this is E2, you may as well head left and tackle Ali Baba as the crux ..." 21/Apr

    East Sphinx Direct
    "i recon HS 5b" 19/Mar

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