Adjacent Areas
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Lots of sun!
Uphill
25 minsWindy
The central feature of the face is the jutting headstone of the Sphinx. There are a couple of real classics here plus some less popular outings. Surprisingly, and unlike most rocks named after a Sphinx, this really does look like one, and from both sides too. Guidebook page 217.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
The Direct Start 10m. The wall with the mouth feature provides a technical direct start to either of the next pair of routes. | 1 Stars Reachy Rounded | E2 5c |
2 |
West Sphinx Climb Top 50 11m. From under the nose, move up left to below the overhang (poor improvised gear) and make a hard pull over. Move up to reach... | 2 Stars Technical Fluttery | E2 5b |
3 |
West Sphinx Direct Top 50 10m. Superb bold and engrossing, and only a bit harder than the 1959 original version. Follow the bold start to West Sphinx... 5 user comments | 3 Stars Reachy Fluttery | E3 5b |
4 |
Black Knight 10m. A desperately technical outing that scales the chin via the peg-scarred crack that forms the 'Douglas dimple'. | Technical Fluttery | E5 6c |
5 |
Terrorist 10m. Pull into the hanging groove right of the chin then move slightly right and head up the wall by sustained fingery... | 1 Stars Pumpy Crimpy Fluttery | E4 5c |
6 |
Walk on the Wild Side 10m. A squeezed line up a short capped groove. Climb the groove and up the face (fingery and harrowing) to reach a flake.... 1 user comment | Crimpy Fluttery | E3 5c |
7 |
East Sphinx Direct 10m. Pull up to the hanging crack in the centre of the South Face and climb it and the wider continuation. Head up this to the... 9 user comments | 1 Stars Crimpy | HVS 5a |
8 |
East Sphinx Climb 10m. Slight but pleasant. Start from a block in the gully and shuffle left along the ledges to a good crack, which leads to a... | 1 Stars | HVD |
9 |
Sphinx Nose Traverse Top 50 14m. Excellent, a real midget gem. Follow East Sphinx Climb (or East Sphinx Direct) but traverse left, heading for the eye, on... 3 user comments | 3 Stars | S 4a |
