The Sphinx

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Lots of sun!
Uphill
25 mins

The central feature of the face is the jutting headstone of the Sphinx. There are a couple of real classics here plus some less popular outings. Surprisingly, and unlike most rocks named after a Sphinx, this really does look like one, and from both sides too. Guidebook page 217.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Direct Start
10m. The wall with the mouth feature provides a technical direct start to either of the next pair of routes.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
E2 5c
2
West Sphinx Climb Top 50
11m. From under the nose, move up left to below the overhang (poor improvised gear) and make a hard pull over. Move up to reach...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E2 5b
3
West Sphinx Direct Top 50
10m. Superb bold and engrossing, and only a bit harder than the 1959 original version. Follow the bold start to West Sphinx...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E3 5b
4
Black Knight
10m. A desperately technical outing that scales the chin via the peg-scarred crack that forms the 'Douglas dimple'.
 
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6c
5
Terrorist
10m. Pull into the hanging groove right of the chin then move slightly right and head up the wall by sustained fingery...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
Fluttery
E4 5c
6
Walk on the Wild Side
10m. A squeezed line up a short capped groove. Climb the groove and up the face (fingery and harrowing) to reach a flake....
1 user comment
 
Crimpy
Fluttery
E3 5c
7
East Sphinx Direct
10m. Pull up to the hanging crack in the centre of the South Face and climb it and the wider continuation. Head up this to the...
9 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
HVS 5a
8
East Sphinx Climb
10m. Slight but pleasant. Start from a block in the gully and shuffle left along the ledges to a good crack, which leads to a...
 
1 Stars
HVD
9
Sphinx Nose Traverse Top 50
14m. Excellent, a real midget gem. Follow East Sphinx Climb (or East Sphinx Direct) but traverse left, heading for the eye, on...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
S 4a
  • Latest Comments

    For WAINSTONES

    East Sphinx Direct
    "I go with Franco @ HS 5b - hard move(s) all low down." 23/Sep

    North Route
    "The gear is sparse - a bad thread. You may find yourself soloing." 31/May top50

    West Sphinx Direct
    "had to piano play my fingers into the eye, felt like hard 5c to me at 5'7"...." 02/Oct top50

    Little Bo-Peep
    "it is easierb to nip across quickly rather than burn out placing gear higher up...." 18/Sep top50

    Tiny's Dilemma Direct
    "the start is SUPER polished took me a while to get onto the first footholds :S..." 14/Nov

    Steeple Groove
    "HVD is way overgraded. Its Diff in the NE England guide and that seems about rig..." 31/May

    Sesame
    "Seeing as this is E2, you may as well head left and tackle Ali Baba as the crux ..." 21/Apr

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