Bilsdale Buttress and Main Wall

Adjacent Areas
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Sun from mid-morning
Uphill
25 mins

Another pair of pleasant buttresses with a collection of worthwhile lower grade routes in a sunny sheltered situation. As might be expected they are popular. Guidebook page 218.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Jackdaw Wall
7m. The smooth wall is climbed leftwards from a fingery layaway. The landing is poor, as is the gear.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
E2 6a
2
Jackdaw Ridge
10m. Follow the ridge (not much gear) until ledges lead leftwards.
 
1 Stars
HVD
3
Jackdaw Gully
10m. The left-slanting groove gives a good beginners' pitch.
 
1 Stars
D
4
Christopher
9m. Climb the gully for a couple of metres then cross the right wall under the roof (small cams) making awkward moves out to...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
HS 4b
5
The Bulge Super Direct
8m. Start under the shallow groove and climb the wall on its right by technical and bold moves to slabbier ground. Sticking...
1 user comment
 
Technical
E2 5b
6
The Bulge
9m. From a block in the left branch of Dusty Gully climb the steep wall to a horizontal finger-crack. Traverse this leftwards...
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
7
The Slab Climb Variation
9m. From an embedded flake climb straight up the edge of the slab with a tricky mantel, finish up steeper rock.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
S 4a
8
The Slab Climb
9m. A nice outing though protection is lacking. Climb the centre of the slab by at least one mantelshelf. Finish up a short...
2 user comments
 
Technical
Rounded
Fluttery
HS 4b
9
Central Route
9m. Start up The Slab Climb but branch right to a good foothold close to the next route. Continue by a decisive mantelshelf.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS 5b
10
Wall and Ledge Top 50
10m. Start from a block and climb the prominent crack system to the top of the huge flake. Move up to a higher ledge and finish...
 
2 Stars
VD
11
Ridge Route
12m. Pull up to a ledge on the arete (phew - beefy) then continue to join the previous climb as it comes in from the left.
 
Strong
Rounded
S 4a
12
Ridge Route Right-hand
12m. Pull onto the ledge as for Ridge Route then continue laybacking up the right side of the arete throughout. Artificial, but...
 
Rounded
HVS 5a
13
Concave Wall Top 50
11m. From the ledge on Ridge Route, step right into the centre of the slab and climb direct by precarious climbing, with a...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
HVS 5b
  • Latest Comments

    For WAINSTONES

    East Sphinx Direct
    "I go with Franco @ HS 5b - hard move(s) all low down." 23/Sep

    North Route
    "The gear is sparse - a bad thread. You may find yourself soloing." 31/May top50

    West Sphinx Direct
    "had to piano play my fingers into the eye, felt like hard 5c to me at 5'7"...." 02/Oct top50

    Little Bo-Peep
    "it is easierb to nip across quickly rather than burn out placing gear higher up...." 18/Sep top50

    Tiny's Dilemma Direct
    "the start is SUPER polished took me a while to get onto the first footholds :S..." 14/Nov

    Steeple Groove
    "HVD is way overgraded. Its Diff in the NE England guide and that seems about rig..." 31/May

    Sesame
    "Seeing as this is E2, you may as well head left and tackle Ali Baba as the crux ..." 21/Apr

    East Sphinx Direct
    "i recon HS 5b" 19/Mar

    East Sphinx Direct
    "Nope, MVS. ;-)" 09/Mar

    East Sphinx Direct
    "So you are trying to say its Hard Sever then? CC" 09/Mar

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