Plague and Auto da Fe

Adjacent Areas
< The Brush Off  |  Wilkinson's Wall >

Trad
Lots of sun!
12 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

A couple of buttresses with a pair of highly technical outings both protected by one of the last bolts on natural grit. Despite promises from various hardy souls to do away with the bolt - it is still there! Over to the right is a fine tower with one of the edge's greatest routes - Auto da Fe, and some easier offerings.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Caravaggio
The side-wall of the buttress, on sloping holds to a fierce undercutting move and an easier finale.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
E3 6b
2
Outsider
Climb the left wall to the break then traverse round the arete on jams where a powerful move gains the arete, then sprint. Low...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5c
3
Ring of Roses
Start as for Outsider but traverse the break on good jams but not many foot-holds; a pumpy little number.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5b
4
Big Al
The left side of the face with great difficulty. Originally it was started on the right, with the bolt pre-clipped, at E5 6c.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E7 7a
5
Plague
The centre of the overlapping wall past an ancient, naughty and unwelded bolt. The move to pass the overlap containing the bolt...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E4 6b
6
The Crevice
Bridge the short steep corner just to the right to a tricky exit.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVD
7
The Slot
The wide and mucky crack in the wall just to the right.
 
Graunchy
HVD
8
Moss Side
The left arete of the jutting slab from some fat chips. Lichenous.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HS 4b
9
Lichen Slab
The scoop and overlap around to the right climbed centrally. This one is cleaner than you might expect.
3 user comments
 
Rounded
VS 4a
10
Lichen Slab II
The right arete of the slab is pleasant enough and clean too.
 
Rounded
S 4a
11
Sparks
Scratch up the fierce arete. Originally finished up the next route.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
V8 7B
12
Palm Charmer
The thin crack in the front of the buttress is awkward then step left and layback the tricky and reachy arete to finish.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E3 5c
13
Auto da Fe Top 50
Rivelin's second classic E4 arete - technically harder than The Brush Off but with much better gear. Climb the short crack to...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4 6a
14
Reprieve
The bold face with hard moves just before it eases.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E3 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For RIVELIN

    Acid Reign
    "Changed from V5 6C 6b * to V5 6C *, no votes" 06/Jan

    Jonad Rib
    "If you have microcams HS 4a, if not HVS 4a? No other proper gear till 3/4 way up..." 27/May

    April Fool
    "Line in the Fax guide seems too far left, ignore this? Protectable enough with s..." 09/Mar

    Altar Crack
    "What you see is what you get! A full on layback well beyond the easy gear. Eith..." 05/Mar

    Crack One
    "easy low down, felt hard at the top, the loose jug doesnt help. Harder than S4a" 03/Mar

    Croton Oil
    "Quite committing near the top, but some nice gear in the slightly smooth cracks...." 29/Jan top50

    Croton Oil
    "just wish it had scraped into K Wilsons hard rock because it is just as good as ..." 09/Jan top50

    Oversight
    "I agree: somewhere in between VS 4c & the Severe 4a it gets on the UKC datab..." 09/Jan

    Easy Picking
    "I think the start can be done at 6a (I did a more obvious but 6b method on the l..." 06/Nov

    Easy Picking
    "Great little route, full on E2!" 29/Oct

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