Plague and Auto da Fe

Adjacent Areas
< The Brush Off  |  Roof Route >

Trad
Lots of sun!
12 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

A couple of buttresses with a pair of highly technical outings both protected by one of the last bolts on natural grit. Despite promises from various hardy souls to do away with the bolt - it is still there! Over to the right is a fine tower with one of the edge's greatest routes - Auto da Fe, and some easier offerings.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Ebenezer's Staircase
6m. A tricky move gains a ledge, a flake and a leftwards exit. A technical direct start (5b) is possible up the lower wall.
1 user comment
 VD
2
Deep Chimney
6m. The wide crack is a thrash to enter; exit right to avoid the ugly slot at the top.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HVD
3
Fumf
6m. The arete has a funny starting sequence but soon eases.
10 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 5a
4
Wobbly Wall
6m. Small holds allow the blank wall to the right to be climbed.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS 5b
5
Europe After Rain
5m. The right-hand side of the wall to a hairy exit. Short but quite intense.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Fluttery
E4 6b
6
Caravaggio
8m. The side wall of the buttress, on sloping holds and with a fierce undercutting move, leads to an easier finale.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
E3 6a
7
Outsider
10m. Climb the left wall to the break then traverse round the arete on jams to where a powerful move gains the arete. Direct...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
8
Ring of Roses
14m. Start as for Outsider but traverse the break on good jams but not many foot-holds, a pumpy number.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5b
9
Big Al
10m. Start up Plague but then climb the left-hand side of the face with great Diculty. Normally the bolt on Plague is...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5 6c
10
Plague
10m. The centre of the overlapping wall past an ancient, naughty and unwelded bolt. The move to pass the overlap containing the...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E4 6b
11
The Crevice
8m. Bridge the short steep corner-crack just to the right.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HVD
12
The Slot
8m. The wide crack in the wall just to the right.
 
Graunchy
HVD
13
Chips and Peas
10m. The left arete of the jutting slab from some fat chips.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HS 4b
14
Lichen Slab
8m. The slab and overlap around to the right are climbed centrally to a choice of exits. Cleaner than you might expect.
3 user comments
 S 4a
15
Sparks
10m. Scratch up the fierce left arete. Originally it joined Palm Charmer at the break but it is usually done as a boulder...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
V8 7B+
16
Palm Charmer
10m. The thin crack in the front of the buttress is awkward (crux) then step left and layback the arete to finish.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E3 5c
17
Auto da Fe Top 50
12m. Rivelinís second classic E4 arete is technically harder than The Brush Off but has better gear. Climb the short crack to...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4 6a
18
Reprieve
10m. The bold face with hard moves just before it eases.
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E3 5c
19
Left Holly Pillar Crack
6m. A right-slanting crack in the wall.
1 user comment
 
Graunchy
S 4a
20
Right Holly Pillar Crack
6m. The deep, wide crack right again.
4 user comments
 
Graunchy
S 4a
21
Kellog Corner
6m. The flaky corner on some suspect rock.
1 user comment
 
Loose
S 4a
22
Double Decker
6m. The technical wall just to the right.
 
Technical
E4 6a
23
Caveman's Caper
6m. The slanting crack leads to a recess and easy ground.
 
Pumpy
Graunchy
HS 4b
24
Boulder Club
6m. Fiercely technical climbing, via a thin slot.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Crimpy
V6 7A
  • Latest Comments

    For RIVELIN

    Jonad Rib
    "If you have microcams HS 4a, if not HVS 4a? No other proper gear till 3/4 way up..." 27/May

    April Fool
    "Line in the Fax guide seems too far left, ignore this? Protectable enough with s..." 09/Mar

    Altar Crack
    "What you see is what you get! A full on layback well beyond the easy gear. Eith..." 05/Mar

    Crack One
    "easy low down, felt hard at the top, the loose jug doesnt help. Harder than S4a" 03/Mar

    Croton Oil
    "Quite committing near the top, but some nice gear in the slightly smooth cracks...." 29/Jan top50

    Croton Oil
    "just wish it had scraped into K Wilsons hard rock because it is just as good as ..." 09/Jan top50

    Oversight
    "I agree: somewhere in between VS 4c & the Severe 4a it gets on the UKC datab..." 09/Jan

    Easy Picking
    "I think the start can be done at 6a (I did a more obvious but 6b method on the l..." 06/Nov

    Easy Picking
    "Great little route, full on E2!" 29/Oct

    Ausfahrt
    "Rather bold (the lovely moves on the upper wall are unprotected), but only 5b; s..." 19/Oct

    The Spiral Route
    "A good adventure. I regret trying to do it in one pitch. By the time I was at th..." 27/Jul

    Angst
    "The top out isn't the rounded horror show the guidebook makes it sound like. Bom..." 04/Jul

    Nonsuch
    "So hard! Terrazza Crack, Surgeon's Saunter etc are hard at HVS, but this is a jo..." 16/May

    Tree Crack
    "Easy Diff except for the top out which is tricky for VDiff (though well protect..." 15/May

    White Out
    "The line is clearly too vague to form a concensus on the grade, as the further l..." 25/Apr

    Ausfahrt
    "There's now no wire placements once stood up on the ledge" 15/Apr

    Altar Crack
    "Hard work, but I now understand why the grade is only VS 4c and not harder as ma..." 08/Apr

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