Main Wall

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Lots of sun!
6 mins
Level
Sheltered

The best routes at Horseshoe are on the Main Wall. This gives good clean climbing on stable rock with good bolts and lower-offs. Some of the routes are becoming polished.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Pale Rider
The main arete gives good, well-positioned climbing. Strictly speaking, the crack should be avoided, but this is a bit...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
6a
2
Rain Dance
The wall 3m right of the arete gives good climbing that eases with height. Exit over to the right. There are two poorer...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6c
3
School's Out
A hard move on the lower arete leads to fine climbing up the higher groove. An excellent 6a combination is to start up Rotund...
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6a+
4
The Colostomy Finish
Left-hand finish to Rain Dance into short groove.
2 user comments
 7a
5
Physical Fizz
Short left-hand finish to Rain Dance from below the top bolt.
 6c
6
Rotund Rooley
An easy start leads to a fine finish up the open scoop with a tiny hold on the crux pull. Polished and rather bold at the top.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Crimpy
6b
7
Waves of Mutilation
An eliminate with one tricky move. Low in the grade.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
8
First Days of Winter
Forgot your nuts? Pity - the disjointed groove/crack system is a decent pitch with a convenient lower-off.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5b
9
Wall of Jericho
This one has a couple of hard moves, one low down and again at half-height, A good pitch.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b
10
The Leading Line
The long lead vein has a stretch or two.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
6b+
11
Say it With Flowers
The first of the real quality climbs takes an intricate and sustained line up the wall just right of the lead vein.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c
12
Legal Action
One of the best here, a tricky start leads to a fine finish up the open scoop - good footwork helps.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c
13
Run For Your Wife
An eliminate, but with some good climbing.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c+
14
Private Prosecution
A worthwhile, direct line with good sustained climbing. The route now bears little resemblance to the original line.
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6c
15
Litany Against Fear
Another excellent and popular trip with some airy climbing on the upper wall. Often finished further right, but it was...
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6c
16
Megalithic Man
Excellent climbing. At the groove, stretch left around the bulge to a hidden jug, then move back right.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
17
Megalithic Man Direct
Avoid the stretch left by climbing direct.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
18
Poisonality
A direct version of Ancient Rhythm with a tricky 2nd clip. The crux is a desperate trick move and is much easier when you know...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
19
An Ancient Rhythm
A quality route with a hard, slippery and fingery pull past the second bolt, and fine crack-climbing higher up.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6c
20
Demolition Man
A technical start and a finish that feels bolder than it is. There is also a finish to the right, which is harder, but less...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
7a
21
Shot Yer Bolt
Once the most popular route at Horseshoe, up the crack and groove. Showing its age a bit and high(ish) in the grade.
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
22
Southern Man
Start direct (hard) or come in from the left. The finish is easier than it once was, but is still no pushover.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
7a+
23
Nice Face, Shame about the Ledge
The name sums it up, but the climbing is good.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
6b+
24
Flat World
Technical climbing up the wall right of Nice Face... with a brutish finish. Powerful.
 
1 Stars
Strong
7a+
25
Lost Monolith
The easy ramp gives access to good climbing above.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
6b+
26
Screwy Driver
A hybrid route, which has been claimed several times. There are a couple of bolts, but it still requires some nuts.
1 user comment
 E1 5b
27
Sound as a Carp
20m. A hybrid route which has been claimed several times. The direct line has 2 bolts but still requires some nuts.
 E1 5b
28
Spring Awakening
The long crack. Bits continue to drop off it, so care is needed.
 HVS 5a
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  • Latest Comments

    For HORSESHOE QUARRY

    School's Out
    "If "an excellent 6a combination is to start up Rotund Rooley and then move ..." 28/Apr

    Men at Work
    "Great entry level multi pitch climb. It was the first multipitch that myself an..." 26/Feb

    Sag Ponir
    "Surprisingly enjoyable!" 01/Oct

    Blade Runner
    "This has been rebolted for a while now - six bolts. Still feels pretty thin hig..." 09/Sep

    Almost There
    "What should be an enjoyable easy route is spoiled by some poor bolt placements a..." 05/Sep

    Supplementary Questions
    "A new route starts up this: Two Flat Whites 19m 6a+ Start up Supplementary Qu..." 12/Aug

    Toilet Humour
    "And worth a flutter symbol as it's not exactly well bolted!" 05/May

    Galening Crack
    "Seemed perfectly reasonable grade and gear wise when I did it in May 2011" 29/Apr

    Like Ice, Like Fire
    "Fully bolted now at about 5+" 29/Apr

    Olive Oil
    "Harder and not as good as He Seems so Sumo with somne strange bolt placements." 17/Apr

    Spectophotometry
    "Isnt it spelt Spectrophotometry ('r' after first 't')" 03/Jan

    50 Bolts to the Gallon
    "It's a poor route and it is, quite rightly, not popular." 20/Jul

    Spiteful Rain
    "Presumably this is the route formerly known as "First Prize". It's eas..." 09/Jul

    Exceeding the Speed Limit
    "I was nearby when the jug below the 2nd bolt was pulled off today, probably maki..." 16/May

    Demolition Man
    "Two V4/5 problems separated by a ramble. Stamina is therefore not an issue, but ..." 18/Oct

    Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep?
    "Pretty much fully bolted at the top now, but you still need wires for the lower ..." 09/Jul

    Thomas Crapper
    "Good first 6a route but hard finish for the end of the day" 12/Jun

    An Ancient Rhythm
    "Unbelievably polished. Much harder than the 7a's I've done here. Third bolt is c..." 31/May

    Megalithic Man
    "For both this and Litany: most of the route is great fun, with occasional polish..." 15/May

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