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Uphill
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The left side of the cliffs has some good climbs, the best of which follow striking lines, the superb long corner line of Satchmo being the prime example. Guidebook page 222.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Evening Wall 11m. Climb the right wall of a chimney slot to a bilberry ledge. Finish up the good crack in the wall up and left. | HS 4b | |
2 |
Thrasher 11m. Thrash over the juggy roof then trend right to ledges. Finish up the pleasant right-trending slabby ramp. | VS 4c | |
3 |
Suede Shoe Shuffle 11m. Monkey up into the hanging notch in the roof then climb the buttress above which is easier, at least in decent footwear! | Technical Strong | HVS 5c |
4 |
En Passant Top 50 12m. The long groove in the left arete of the recess is a fine climb at the grade when clean. The top is often a bit grassy. 1 user comment | 2 Stars | S 4b |
5 |
Afterthought 12m. Climb the centre of the slab, skirting the left edge of the green streak, to finish up the centre of the upper wall. | HVS 5a | |
6 |
Lazy Bones 12m. The long groove that runs up the back left-hand corner of the recess is a good pitch and an impressive line at the grade. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | HS 4b |
7 |
Grooves-ology Top 50 12m. Start up Lazy Bones but move right to the fine long flake-crack and follow it throughout. Good climbing with good gear. 1 user comment | 3 Stars Pumpy | VS 5a |
8 |
Stardust 12m. A flake-crack leads to the ledge shared with Grooves-ology. Climb the right-hand peg-scarred crack to the top. | 1 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | E1 5b |
9 |
Satchmo Top 50 14m. The superb long leaning groove gives a great piece of climbing, sustained, though with good protection, and a hard move... 3 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Crimpy | E1 5c |
10 |
Ch-Ching 16m. The arete is hard and worthwhile but will be so much better when it gets the finish it really deserves. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Fluttery | E7 6c |
11 |
Stratagem Top 50 16m. Originally called Ella, this ancient aid route would be a Millstone masterpiece were it shipped down there. Climb the... | 3 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | E4 6b |
12 |
Sunshine Slab 10m. A pleasant finish after a devious approach. Climb past a huge jammed boulder in the gully then move left to the deep... | 1 Stars Rounded | VD |
13 |
Sunny Delight 8m. Follow Sunshine Slab until it heads for the main groove then climb the rounded and poorly protected arete. Scary. | Rounded Fluttery | E1 5b |
14 |
Little Gem 8m. Head up the right wall of the big gully to a good ledge, then pull into the short hanging crack with difficulty. | Strong | HVS 5b |
15 |
Too Young To Fly 10m. Shin up the right-hand side of the arete to reach a large grassy ledge. On the right is a crack, close to the upper... | 1 Stars | HVS 5a |
16 |
Loose Ends 10m. Pull onto the arete as for Too Young to Fly and shuffle right until an elongated pocket can be reached by harsh cranking... 1 user comment | 1 Stars | E1 5c |
17 |
Ahab 14m. A fine climb up a good line. The bottom of the groove is blank, so hand traverse in from the left and pull into the main... | 2 Stars Pumpy | HS 4b |
18 |
Rock Bottom 12m. Start as for Ahab (the Direct Start is most fitting) then climb the wall past a mouth, making desperate moves to the... | 1 Stars Reachy Technical | E3 6b |
19 |
Hard On The shallow groove just right of the corner gives a nice problem. | 1 Stars | V1 5c |
20 |
Rock On The suitably flexible can access the jutting beak on its left side. | 1 Stars | V3 6a |
21 |
Jonah 12m. From just right of the arete, climb up and left through the roof with difficulty. Finish up Ahab. | 1 Stars Technical | VS 5a |
22 |
Moby Dick 12m. From the gully right of the buttress, balance left above the roof then climb the wall to a good ledge. Gain the undercut... | 1 Stars | HS 4b |
