Central Walls

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Evening sun
Uphill
15 mins
Seepage

An imposing set of climbs up steep open faces and with great outward views. Like the rest of the cliff, visits need to be linked to a spell of good weather. The best of the climbs here are very good indeed, be prepared to be surprised at their quality. Guidebook page 224.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Forest Face Top 50
22m. A devious and exciting classic. Care with the rope work is needed for maximum enjoyment. Start at the foot of the gully on...
 
3 Stars
HS 4b
2
Red Light
14m. Climb the groove to ledges then weave through the overhangs to reach a thin crack-line. Follow this to a large lying down...
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
3
Naught for your Comfort
16m. Climb to and through the roof and press on past the right-hand edge of a second roof to reach the traverse on Forest Face....
 
1 Stars
Strong
E1 5c
4
Hooker
16m. Follow the thin crack, 6m left of the arete, to the roofs. Hard climbing (a fierce pull on an iron blob) gains the big...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
Crimpy
Fluttery
E2 5c
5
Harlot’s Groove
18m. A fine climb up the big arete that is the chief feature of the centre of the cliff. Climb the left side of the arete to...
 
3 Stars
Strong
VS 4c
6
Tumble-down Dick Top 50
18m. A great beginners' route and one of the area's better winter climbs on the rare occasions when it is cold enough. Start by...
 
2 Stars
D
7
Tumble-down Crack
18m. From the top of the grass bank, climb the thin corner-crack on the left to the large ledge and a belay. Bridge the leaning...
 
1 Stars
VS 5a
8
The Omen
18m. A good climb with a bold feel. Climb Tumble-down Crack until it is possible to pull out right and ascend to a break....
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E1 5a
9
Spell Bound
18m. A bold and pumpy outing starting up the steep wall right of the corner to reach a ledge. Continue up a groove to the...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
Fluttery
E2 5b
10
Waterslide Left-hand
18m. Climb the wall just to the left of the green streak and continue up the left-hand groove directly above. A good line...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HS 4b
11
Waterslide
18m. The right-hand version is usually cleaner but isn't well protected. Follow the Left-hand to the ledge at the foot of the...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
HS 4b
12
Fever Pitch Top 50
16m. Another big pitch with excellent bold climbing. Start at the right-hand side of the green streak at a shallow groove....
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E2 5b
13
Gangrene
16m. An impressive line up the centre of the wall. Climb the steep lower wall leftwards to the overhangs. Pass these and...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4 6b
14
Three Screaming Popes
16m. The soaring arete is approached through the large bulges then climbed on its left-hand side throughout. The route has a...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E6 6c
15
Broadway
12m. The narrow buttress on the right side of this section of the cliff eases with height. Rounded climbing.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
HVS 5b
16
Airlift Top 50
14m. Across the grassy descent gully is a jutting buttress. Start at the foot of the front face and climb up and left to the...
 
2 Stars
Rounded
S 4a
  • Latest Comments

    For RAVEN'S SCAR

    Ch-Ching
    "I can't delete them but I take back most of the above comments! I did a climb b..." 11/Jan

    Waterslide Left-hand
    "Needs a fluttery symbol, there's even less protection than on the normal route -..." 23/Jun

    Fever Pitch
    "J. Redhead avoided it, because it was filthy. They cleaned it up and did it next..." 22/May top50

    Fever Pitch
    "Correctly described as bold, at least initially, I thought the last move is clea..." 17/May top50

    Lazy Bones
    "had a bad day on this pitch, ended up across to groves-oilgy then had to travers..." 21/Sep

    En Passant
    "VERY green on the upper arête and probably a little undergraded, the crux certai..." 15/Aug top50

    Ch-Ching
    "This is a good route, much better than it looks. However, I don't think that Ch..." 04/Nov

    Fever Pitch
    "Well protected with a good rack of cams. Big holds." 09/Jun top50

    Satchmo
    "this is quite a sandbag at E1 I reckon. The crucial handhold/chock near the top..." 25/May top50

    Grooves-ology
    "Bomber Gear, Good Line, Great Climbing!" 16/Sep top50

    Hooker
    "the crux on this route invovles a very small iron crimp. So a crimpy sign will w..." 12/Sep

    Loose Ends
    "If it goes where I think it does, this is way way harder than VS 5a. So, you shu..." 06/May

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