Rocky Valley Buttress Two

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No sun
10 mins
Up and Down

Across the slope from Buttress One are the twin pillars that make up Buttress Two (looks like two buttresses really) set above a steep bank. The most prominent feature is the wide rift of the old classic of Stiction Chimney. It tends to be green after wet weather, though the positions are rather grand.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Stiction
9m. The pillar on the left was popular in antiquity.
 
Crimpy
VS 4c
2
Stiction Chimney
9m. The widening rift is great fun, or a nightmare.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VD
3
Nordwand
10m. Climb the wall and rib to the break then pull onto the hanging arete above, and go.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5b
4
Scoop and Hole
10m. Follow Nordwand but head right along the break to a jug at the base of a scoop/ramp. Heave aboard and wobble up the scoop.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
5
Superb, Too Right
10m. Access and climb the superb hanging flake in the middle of the blank wall. Finish direct.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6c
6
Berserker
14m. Climb the arete above the blocks with a harder move to reach the break and runners. Follow the break leftwards and finish...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5b
7
The Strid
10m. Up the slabby groove until the crack in the left wall can be reached (direct is a grade harder). Climb the crack to a...
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
8
Flypaper
The pleasant slabby face on well marked holds.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
VB 4a
9
V Groove
The awkward groove.
 
1 Stars
V0+ 5a
10
Ivor the Engine
8m. A hard start leads to more enjoyable moves up the face/arete above.
 
Rounded
HVS 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For ILKLEY

    Desperate Dan
    "Brilliant route and pretty safe with a couple of mats. Modern highballing at it..." 27/Jun top50

    Oak Tree Slab
    "How can an unprotected 4b slab get S 4b? MVS 4b would be closer, or maybe HS 4a ..." 15/Jun

    Bald Eagle
    "Can't understand the E grade. No worthwhile gear on the hard bit. A fall from th..." 21/May

    Wellington Crack
    "Inspired by the 80s photo of JD I fulfilled the long held ambition of a solo asc..." 18/Jun top50

    Black Chimney
    "Just squeeze inside and squirm upwards - not much gear, but it'd be hard to fall..." 04/Jun

    New Statesman
    "Hard E8 with unprotected crux (7a) above back breaking boulder. Filed down rp 2s..." 12/May

    Tufted Crack
    "Finally got it. 2yrs on and it's still a bitch. I can now say I enjoyed it, I th..." 15/Mar top50

    Shock Horror
    "fell off from top, twice. Its a long way. The fall is a privallage." 14/Sep

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