Rocky Valley Buttress 3 & 4

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Evening sun
12 mins
Up and Down

The most attractive and popular buttresses in the valley have a good selection of climbs across the grades. They tend to be cleaner than other bits of rock hereabouts.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Black Chimney
8m. The short rift on the left has a tricky finish.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VD
2
Three Slabs Route Top 50
12m. Pleasant balance climbing up the stacked slab.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Rounded
S 4a
3
Sod it
The blunt arete is a nice problem.
 
1 Stars
V1 5b
4
Bogey Wall
Polished holds on the green wall lead to the ledge.
 
1 Stars
V0 4c
5
Hades
10m. The blunt arete above the two problems eases with height.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
HVS 5b
6
The Flake Climb
14m. A mini-classic with an exciting finish. Climb the easy groove leftwards to a cave recess. Exit left from this to reach a...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
S 4a
7
Oak Tree Slab
10m. Climb the slab (polished chips) to a roof which is passed left or right. Easy climbing remains.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
S 4b
8
Oak Tree Crack
10m. Layback the thin flake to the fat tree. A short chimney leads to easy ground on the previous climb.
 
Pumpy
S 4a
9
Sentry Box Direct
10m. Climb the clean crack into the sentry box then continue direct - honest hard work. The original is started up the groove...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
10
Kestrel
10m. The wide left-leaning crack gives a more arduous approach to the niche. 'Old School' climbing at its best.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VS 4c
11
Shock Horror Top 50
12m. The blunt rib is approached from the left and climbed on a series of small and widely spaced pockets - don't fall! The...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
Rounded
Fluttery
E6 6b
12
Slide Zone
12m. The side wall contains a shallow groove, this is hard as far as a good flake then easier but bolder above.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4 6a
13
Throstle's Nest Climb
10m. The main angle is awkward and can be dirty.
 
Graunchy
HS 4b
14
Twin Cracks
10m. The combined cracks. The right-hand one is most useful.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HS 4b
15
Somersault
10m. The single crack splitting the left-hand arete of the chimney. Lovely jamming and good protection.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
16
Long Chimney
12m. Scramble up the grass ledge below and left of the chimney. Stride round right into the chimney then follow it on good...
 
2 Stars
D
17
Long Chimney Direct
14m. Start right under the chimney and climb into a recess. Use the thin cracks in the roof to get out right, then trend up and...
 
2 Stars
Technical
HVD
18
Walker's Hangover
14m. A fine long pitch. Start up Long Chimney Direct but continue up the slab and steepening crack to a ledge and rest. Step...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a
19
Sound Box
14m. Scramble up to an overhanging recess and exit from this awkwardly (big gear). Finish up the crack at the back of the...
 
Graunchy
VS 4b
20
Tombstone Crack
14m. The right-hand groove in the wall leads to a ledge. Step right and finish up the blocky arete.
 
1 Stars
VS 4b
  • Latest Comments

    For ILKLEY

    Desperate Dan
    "Brilliant route and pretty safe with a couple of mats. Modern highballing at it..." 27/Jun top50

    Oak Tree Slab
    "How can an unprotected 4b slab get S 4b? MVS 4b would be closer, or maybe HS 4a ..." 15/Jun

    Bald Eagle
    "Can't understand the E grade. No worthwhile gear on the hard bit. A fall from th..." 21/May

    Wellington Crack
    "Inspired by the 80s photo of JD I fulfilled the long held ambition of a solo asc..." 18/Jun top50

    Black Chimney
    "Just squeeze inside and squirm upwards - not much gear, but it'd be hard to fall..." 04/Jun

    New Statesman
    "Hard E8 with unprotected crux (7a) above back breaking boulder. Filed down rp 2s..." 12/May

    Tufted Crack
    "Finally got it. 2yrs on and it's still a bitch. I can now say I enjoyed it, I th..." 15/Mar top50

    Shock Horror
    "fell off from top, twice. Its a long way. The fall is a privallage." 14/Sep top50

    Cherry Valley Rib
    "One of the easiest HVS's in the area - so long as you don't mind the bold [but w..." 28/Aug

    Walker's Hangover
    "Hard for HVS, at the top of the crack and the top of the arete. Definitely felt..." 27/Aug

    Peg Crack
    "Nice, but definitely not worth HVS. VS 4b?" 25/Aug

    Milky Way
    "Absolutely brilliant - couldn't get much better than this! Better than London Wa..." 09/Aug top50

    Snap Decision
    "Now one new peg runner - the upper peg is sadly no longer with us" 21/Jul

    Blucher
    "The difficulties are short and well protected - would make a good first VS (thou..." 18/Jun

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