Rocky Valley Buttress Six

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
No sun
Up and Down
15 mins

The final buttress in Rocky Valley is the most extensive and the least visited bit of rock here. Apart from being the furthest from the car park, it also is often green and gets little sunshine, hence the amount of grass on the cliff. Also, the best of the rock rises above an unattractive band of grotty grassy ledges which gives the routes an unexpected feeling of exposure. Despite the setting there are some worthwhile climbs following good lines, and the chances are you will probably be alone. Guidebook page 81.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Catapult Crack
9m. A compelling wide and narrowing crack. It is hard to enter and hard to make progress on. Great practice for those Yosemite...
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HVS 4c
2
Blue Meanies Tea Party
10m. Start up Catapult Crack but at 3m balance out to the arete and climb this with a little trepidation.
 
Fluttery
E3 5c
3
Sunburst Finish
8m. The right-hand side of the arete is accessed by a flying leap, step left to a ledge then continue carefully.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E5 6a
4
Ruby Parrot
8m. The shallow groove in the left wall of the recess is reached from the right and gives good climbing.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E3 5c
5
Gutsie
8m. The wide crack in the corner is another classic thrutch.
 
Graunchy
VS 4c
6
Stump Chimney
8m. Climb the right-hand corner which develops into a chimney.
 VS 4b
7
Diamond Dogs
8m. The right wall of the recess is climbed until it is possible to access the arete on the right. Finish up this.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E3 5c
8
Blind Valley
12m. An arduous but excellent crack system that splits the nose of the buttress. Reach the crack through the overhangs and...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E3 5c
9
Countdown to Disaster
12m. The proud arete is approached from a ledge on the right and followed with great trepidation - technical and sustained. The...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
E8 6b
10
Brush Crack
10m. The main angle is pleasant enough though the approach is a bit agricultural.
 S 4a
11
Arrowhead
10m. The right-trending crack past the arrowhead.
 S 4a
12
Taj Mahal
10m. The left-hand of two cracks. A lower part is best avoided.
 VD
13
Windy Buttress
16m. From a lower level, climb to and through a niche to reach ledges. Finish up the right-hand crack.
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS 5a
14
The Ogre
14m. Grotty terrain leads to the imposing left-trending crack-line. Gain and follow this with difficulty.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
VS 4c
15
Matchbox
14m. The green groove is approached via grassy ledges. It used to be a popular outing.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HS 4b
16
Overhanging Chockstone Crack
8m. Used in the past as a way down.
 D
17
Double Chockstone Crack
8m. The crack in the corner has it moments.
 S 4a
18
Holly Tree Route
14m. A beginners' route for those who like the feeling of exploration. Follow grassy ledges to a better finish up the groove.
1 user comment
 D
19
Illegitimate Crack
14m. A fine varied climb up the long crack on the right - the best VS in the Valley. Any further description would be...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
VS 4c
20
Spreadeagle
14m. Climb the flake then head left, hand traversing a block, to reach a ledge at the base of a groove. Finish up this.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
HS 4b
21
Bald Eagle
14m. The bold arete above the block via a useful pocket.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E3 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For ILKLEY

    Desperate Dan
    "Brilliant route and pretty safe with a couple of mats. Modern highballing at it..." 27/Jun top50

    Oak Tree Slab
    "How can an unprotected 4b slab get S 4b? MVS 4b would be closer, or maybe HS 4a ..." 15/Jun

    Bald Eagle
    "Can't understand the E grade. No worthwhile gear on the hard bit. A fall from th..." 21/May

    Wellington Crack
    "Inspired by the 80s photo of JD I fulfilled the long held ambition of a solo asc..." 18/Jun top50

    Black Chimney
    "Just squeeze inside and squirm upwards - not much gear, but it'd be hard to fall..." 04/Jun

    New Statesman
    "Hard E8 with unprotected crux (7a) above back breaking boulder. Filed down rp 2s..." 12/May

    Tufted Crack
    "Finally got it. 2yrs on and it's still a bitch. I can now say I enjoyed it, I th..." 15/Mar top50

    Shock Horror
    "fell off from top, twice. Its a long way. The fall is a privallage." 14/Sep top50

    Cherry Valley Rib
    "One of the easiest HVS's in the area - so long as you don't mind the bold [but w..." 28/Aug

    Walker's Hangover
    "Hard for HVS, at the top of the crack and the top of the arete. Definitely felt..." 27/Aug

    Peg Crack
    "Nice, but definitely not worth HVS. VS 4b?" 25/Aug

    Milky Way
    "Absolutely brilliant - couldn't get much better than this! Better than London Wa..." 09/Aug top50

    Snap Decision
    "Now one new peg runner - the upper peg is sadly no longer with us" 21/Jul

    Blucher
    "The difficulties are short and well protected - would make a good first VS (thou..." 18/Jun

    Cow Udder
    "Self belayed this last saturday. fine top roped, I would have filled my pants as..." 14/Apr

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