Adjacent Areas
< Rocky Valley Buttress Five | None >
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Up and Down
15 minsWindy
The final buttress in Rocky Valley is the most extensive and the least visited bit of rock here. Apart from being the furthest from the car park, it also is often green and gets little sunshine, hence the amount of grass on the cliff. Also, the best of the rock rises above an unattractive band of grotty grassy ledges which gives the routes an unexpected feeling of exposure. Despite the setting there are some worthwhile climbs following good lines, and the chances are you will probably be alone. Guidebook page 81.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Catapult Crack 9m. A compelling wide and narrowing crack. It is hard to enter and hard to make progress on. Great practice for those Yosemite... | 1 Stars Graunchy | HVS 4c |
2 |
Blue Meanies Tea Party 10m. Start up Catapult Crack but at 3m balance out to the arete and climb this with a little trepidation. | Fluttery | E3 5c |
3 |
Sunburst Finish 8m. The right-hand side of the arete is accessed by a flying leap, step left to a ledge then continue carefully. | 1 Stars Reachy Fluttery | E5 6a |
4 |
Ruby Parrot 8m. The shallow groove in the left wall of the recess is reached from the right and gives good climbing. | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | E3 5c |
5 |
Gutsie 8m. The wide crack in the corner is another classic thrutch. | Graunchy | VS 4c |
6 |
Stump Chimney 8m. Climb the right-hand corner which develops into a chimney. | VS 4b | |
7 |
Diamond Dogs 8m. The right wall of the recess is climbed until it is possible to access the arete on the right. Finish up this. | 1 Stars Fluttery | E3 5c |
8 |
Blind Valley 12m. An arduous but excellent crack system that splits the nose of the buttress. Reach the crack through the overhangs and... | 3 Stars Technical Crimpy | E3 5c |
9 |
Countdown to Disaster 12m. The proud arete is approached from a ledge on the right and followed with great trepidation - technical and sustained. The... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Fluttery | E8 6b |
10 |
Brush Crack 10m. The main angle is pleasant enough though the approach is a bit agricultural. | S 4a | |
11 |
Arrowhead 10m. The right-trending crack past the arrowhead. | S 4a | |
12 |
Taj Mahal 10m. The left-hand of two cracks. A lower part is best avoided. | VD | |
13 |
Windy Buttress 16m. From a lower level, climb to and through a niche to reach ledges. Finish up the right-hand crack. | 1 Stars Technical | VS 5a |
14 |
The Ogre 14m. Grotty terrain leads to the imposing left-trending crack-line. Gain and follow this with difficulty. | 1 Stars Pumpy Graunchy | VS 4c |
15 |
Matchbox 14m. The green groove is approached via grassy ledges. It used to be a popular outing. | 1 Stars Graunchy | HS 4b |
16 |
Overhanging Chockstone Crack 8m. Used in the past as a way down. | D | |
17 |
Double Chockstone Crack 8m. The crack in the corner has it moments. | S 4a | |
18 |
Holly Tree Route 14m. A beginners' route for those who like the feeling of exploration. Follow grassy ledges to a better finish up the groove. 1 user comment | D | |
19 |
Illegitimate Crack 14m. A fine varied climb up the long crack on the right - the best VS in the Valley. Any further description would be... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy Graunchy | VS 4c |
20 |
Spreadeagle 14m. Climb the flake then head left, hand traversing a block, to reach a ledge at the base of a groove. Finish up this. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical | HS 4b |
21 |
Bald Eagle 14m. The bold arete above the block via a useful pocket. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E3 5c |
