Adjacent Areas
< Thornbirds Buttress | None >
Boulder
Lots of sun!
Uphill
10 minsWindy
The is 'the other' fine buttress here and again has a good set of climbs, on the 'tough starting sequence' theme. The leaning sheltered bay on the far right is home to a plethora of tough boulder problems, link-ups and desperate eliminates. Guidebook page 189.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Maggie's Wall 5m. From the ledge, wander up the side wall. | VD | |
2 |
Topal's Wall 5m. From the ledge, trend right (tricky to start) to finish close to the arete as for Fiddler's Wall. | VS 4c | |
3 |
Rock Art The taxing wrinkled side wall on tiny sloping holds. | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | V10 |
4 |
Fiddler's Wall The wall left of the arete has a hard start then eases. | 1 Stars Technical | V6 6c |
5 |
Fiddler's Arete The hanging left arete gives a good pitch. The start is a fierce pull onto the wall - V1. Photo on page 185. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Strong Crimpy | HVS 5b |
6 |
Fiddler 8m. Right of the arete, pull onto the wall then step left and balance up to better holds and a ledge. Finish straight up the... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Strong | HVS 5a |
7 |
Fiddler Direct 6m. Use the same start as Fiddler but head straight up the wall. | 1 Stars Strong | E1 5b |
8 |
Low-level Traverse The clue is in the name - pump along the low break all the way from the left of Fiddler's Arete to Jumping Jack Flash. | 3 Stars Reachy Rounded | V6 6b |
9 |
Barney Boys Mantle on the left-hand edge of the narrow shelf on the face then balance up to reach better holds. Finish right of the bulge. | 1 Stars Technical | V3 6a |
10 |
The Scoop The super slim groove in the centre of the wall eases. | 1 Stars | V4 6b |
11 |
Confectionary Debris The last gap on the wall just had to be done. | 1 Stars Technical | V9 |
12 |
Thin Wall Special Power up to the thin crack where a quick layback reaches rounded holds. Weave between the heather to the top for the E2 tick. | 1 Stars | V2 5c |
13 |
Jumping Jack Flash The leaning right-hand arete is photogenic. A tricky start reaches better holds then trend right up the hanging arete until the... | 2 Stars Strong | V3 6a |
14 |
Beth's Traverse From a start sitting in the back of the cave, follow the sustained finger-traverse to finish up Jumping Jack Flash. | 2 Stars Technical Strong Crimpy | V9 6c |