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Lots of sun!
Uphill
5 minsWindy
There are only about 20 routes here, and the best of these are in the mild Extreme range, but the competent can tick all of the appropriately graded climbs in a couple of hours, or less. The best routes tackle roof features on the two largest buttresses, although there are also decent lines to be found on the clean walls and aretes. Guidebook page 276.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Old Ash Crack 8m. The narrow cleft at the left-hand side of the face. | D | |
2 |
Woodburn Wall Top 50 10m. The centre of the side wall gives a great micro-pitch, with excellent protection in the frequent horizontal breaks. | 2 Stars Pumpy | E1 5b |
3 |
Woodburn Wall Direct 10m. The direct finish bumps up the grade and the pump. | 1 Stars Pumpy Rounded | E2 5c |
4 |
Oliver went a Huntin' 10m. Climb the right-hand side of the arete to the capping roof then lean out right and make hard moves to reach and climb the... | 2 Stars Strong | E2 5c |
5 |
Ridsdale Wall Top 50 10m. The centre of the front face leads to the roof which is crossed with urgency. | 2 Stars Pumpy | E1 5b |
6 |
The Arbitrator 10m. A parallel line to Ridsale Wall. Tackle the right-hand side of the roof at its widest point. | E1 5b | |
7 |
Foxey 10m. The rib that forms the right-hand side of the wall, heading for the capping rowan. | VS 4c | |
8 |
Autobahn 10m. The right-trending arete is steep and pushy. A good jug at half-height offers a shake-out. | 1 Stars Pumpy | E2 5c |
9 |
Green Slab 10m. The slightly-green slab is climbed rightwards until it is possible to step round the arete. Finish up the short crack on... | 1 Stars | VD |
10 |
The Arete 10m. Nice moves up the squeezed-in arete with good positions. | 1 Stars | HS 4b |
11 |
Green Wall 10m. The centre of the pocketed wall is even less green than the slab. Climb to its crest, then move right to finish up the... | 1 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5b |
12 |
Pattie's Route 10m. The right-hand side of the wall leads straight into the base of the final groove of Green Wall. Stride out right to a... | VS 5a | |
13 |
Flying Scot 8m. The left-hand side of the wall is unremarkable. | Rounded | HVS 5a |
14 |
Capstone Wall 10m. A good route up the centre of the side wall with a reachy start and pumpy finish. | 1 Stars Reachy Pumpy | E1 5b |
15 |
Death Wish 12m. The arete is perhaps a little too dramatically named but is a nice enough pitch. Finish up the short wall above the... | 1 Stars | E1 5b |
16 |
The Pandemonium Carnival 14m. Climb the cracks in the left-hand side of the front face of the buttress, then cross the roof with a pocket and... | Reachy | E1 5b |
17 |
Capstone Traverse 18m. Climb the central groove to the overhang then creep left under it and round the arete. Finish up the side wall or cop-out... | S 4a | |
18 |
Capstone Direct 12m. The central groove leads easily to the capping roof, which is where the problems lurk. Scale it using the thin crack. | 1 Stars Strong Rounded | E1 5c |
19 |
Stilton 8m. The left edge of the short buttress is pleasant enough. | VD | |
20 |
Cheese Wedge 8m. A thin crack points the way. Finish up the tiny wall above. 1 user comment | S 4a | |