East Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Evening sun
20 mins
Uphill

The eastern end of the main edge consists of a fine trio of buttresses; a slabby right-hand one a tall smooth central one and a left-hand one capped by a huge roof. Some of the best routes on the crag are located here and the upper grades are especially well represented.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Eastern Traverse
12m. Start in the gully on the left and reach the break that runs under the roof awkwardly. Follow it (exposed) round into...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
HS 4b
2
East Buttress Direct
14m. Follow the shallow pocketed groove out to the arete and balance up this to the break and runners. The short roof-crack on...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E3 5c
3
Thunder Thighs
14m. The centre of the wall is bold and hard, a dynamic approach may be needed. Fortunately, the imposing roof-crack has holds...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E5 6b
4
Idiot Wind
14m. Bold and high in the grade. Climb the unprotected arete with trepidation to the break. Move left to jugs on the edge of...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E4 5c
5
Great Chimney Top 50
14m. The tall rift just left of the fence is a long standing classic. Sustained and a little awkward, but well protected.
 
3 Stars
Technical
VD
6
Obverse Direct
14m. The steep crack right of the chimney leads to a rest. Climb the slab rightwards and exit using the protruding block.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HS 4c
7
Absent Friend
15m. Superb climbing up the left edge of the buttress. Climb the old peg pockets then follow the crack and holes and the...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E5 6b
8
Crisis Zone
15m. The direct finish to Absent Friend is awesome. From the base of the crack, break right onto the leaning headwall and climb...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E7 6c
9
Endless Flight
16m. Start up Absent Friend (originally an easier start from the right was used) but traverse the upper break to the arete...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6a
10
Boundary Corner Top 50
15m. The long groove is a popular outing. Pass the big jammed block awkwardly then finish through the bowels of the cliff for...
 
3 Stars
Graunchy
VD
  • Latest Comments

    For GREAT WANNEY

    Main Wall
    "4b move to start with the potential for an awkward landing (given you start on a..." 17/Apr top50

    Broken Wing
    "Almost as good as Thin Ice, for which it is an obligatory companion / warm-up, a..." 11/Apr

    Main Wall
    "A hard move to start, then sparsely protected VDiff, with quite an exciting fini..." 23/Jun top50

    Northumberland Wall
    "Climbed in a fine drizzle which we didn't think affect things too much as it is ..." 04/Oct top50

    Great Wall Direct Finish
    "Definitely not pumpy, not fluttery if you are used to the grade, and not reachy ..." 12/Sep

    Northumberland Wall
    "Overgraded. E1 5b." 12/Sep top50

    Absent Friend
    "This is indeed a strange description, there is no block on the route. A better d..." 03/Sep

    Thin Ice
    "another fairly misleading description" 05/Jul top50

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