Adjacent Areas
< None | Great Wall >
The eastern end of the main edge consists of a fine trio of buttresses; a slabby right-hand one a tall smooth central one and a left-hand one capped by a huge roof. Some of the best routes on the crag are located here and the upper grades are especially well represented. Guidebook page 270.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Eastern Traverse 12m. Start in the gully on the left and reach the break that runs under the roof awkwardly. Follow it (exposed) round into... | 1 Stars Fluttery | HS 4b |
2 |
East Buttress Direct 14m. Follow the shallow pocketed groove out to the arete and balance up this to the break and runners. The short roof-crack on... | 2 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E3 5c |
3 |
Thunder Thighs 14m. The centre of the wall is bold and hard, a dynamic approach may be needed. Fortunately, the imposing roof-crack has holds... | 1 Stars Reachy Fluttery | E5 6b |
4 |
Idiot Wind 14m. Bold and high in the grade. Climb the unprotected arete with trepidation to the break. Move left to jugs on the edge of... | 2 Stars Fluttery | E4 5c |
5 |
Great Chimney Top 50 14m. The tall rift just left of the fence is a long standing classic. Sustained and a little awkward, but well protected. | 3 Stars Technical | VD |
6 |
Obverse Direct 14m. The steep crack right of the chimney leads to a rest. Climb the slab rightwards and exit using the protruding block. | 1 Stars Pumpy | HS 4c |
7 |
Absent Friend 15m. Superb climbing up the left edge of the buttress. Climb the old peg pockets then follow the crack and holes and the... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Technical | E5 6b |
8 |
Crisis Zone 15m. The direct finish to Absent Friend is awesome. From the base of the crack, break right onto the leaning headwall and climb... | 3 Stars Technical Fluttery | E7 6c |
9 |
Endless Flight 16m. Start up Absent Friend (originally an easier start from the right was used) but traverse the upper break to the arete... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Fluttery | E5 6a |
10 |
Boundary Corner Top 50 15m. The long groove is a popular outing. Pass the big jammed block awkwardly then finish through the bowels of the cliff for... | 3 Stars Graunchy | VD |