East Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< None  |  Great Wall >

Trad
Evening sun
Uphill
20 mins

The eastern end of the main edge consists of a fine trio of buttresses; a slabby right-hand one a tall smooth central one and a left-hand one capped by a huge roof. Some of the best routes on the crag are located here and the upper grades are especially well represented. Guidebook page 270.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Eastern Traverse
12m. Start in the gully on the left and reach the break that runs under the roof awkwardly. Follow it (exposed) round into...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
HS 4b
2
East Buttress Direct
14m. Follow the shallow pocketed groove out to the arete and balance up this to the break and runners. The short roof-crack on...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E3 5c
3
Thunder Thighs
14m. The centre of the wall is bold and hard, a dynamic approach may be needed. Fortunately, the imposing roof-crack has holds...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E5 6b
4
Idiot Wind
14m. Bold and high in the grade. Climb the unprotected arete with trepidation to the break. Move left to jugs on the edge of...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E4 5c
5
Great Chimney Top 50
14m. The tall rift just left of the fence is a long standing classic. Sustained and a little awkward, but well protected.
 
3 Stars
Technical
VD
6
Obverse Direct
14m. The steep crack right of the chimney leads to a rest. Climb the slab rightwards and exit using the protruding block.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HS 4c
7
Absent Friend
15m. Superb climbing up the left edge of the buttress. Climb the old peg pockets then follow the crack and holes and the...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E5 6b
8
Crisis Zone
15m. The direct finish to Absent Friend is awesome. From the base of the crack, break right onto the leaning headwall and climb...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E7 6c
9
Endless Flight
16m. Start up Absent Friend (originally an easier start from the right was used) but traverse the upper break to the arete...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6a
10
Boundary Corner Top 50
15m. The long groove is a popular outing. Pass the big jammed block awkwardly then finish through the bowels of the cliff for...
 
3 Stars
Graunchy
VD
  • Latest Comments

    For GREAT WANNEY

    Main Wall
    "4b move to start with the potential for an awkward landing (given you start on a..." 17/Apr top50

    Broken Wing
    "Almost as good as Thin Ice, for which it is an obligatory companion / warm-up, a..." 11/Apr

    Main Wall
    "A hard move to start, then sparsely protected VDiff, with quite an exciting fini..." 23/Jun top50

    Northumberland Wall
    "Climbed in a fine drizzle which we didn't think affect things too much as it is ..." 04/Oct top50

    Great Wall Direct Finish
    "Definitely not pumpy, not fluttery if you are used to the grade, and not reachy ..." 12/Sep

    Northumberland Wall
    "Overgraded. E1 5b." 12/Sep top50

    Absent Friend
    "This is indeed a strange description, there is no block on the route. A better d..." 03/Sep

    Thin Ice
    "another fairly misleading description" 05/Jul top50

    Search for comments