Adjacent Areas
< East Buttress | Central Gully and Main Wall >
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Evening sun
Uphill
20 minsWindy
This fine smooth wall is home to a great HVS, Great Wall, and the superb HS of Idiot's Delight. There are other worthwhile offerings too. The buttress is above the point where the northern approach track arrives at the crag.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Hawk Slab 12m. Climb the slabby arete past a grassy ledge to a finish on the right of the final steeper section. | 1 Stars | HVS 5a |
2 |
Dove's Nest Crack 12m. The narrowing leaning chimney gives a character-building battle to pass the steepest section. | Graunchy | HVS 5a |
3 |
Patchett's Plunge 12m. The rib gives a good pitch that is poorly protected unless some lateral deviousness is employed - in which case it isn't... | 2 Stars Fluttery | E3 5b |
4 |
Idiot's Delight 14m. A great climb up a fine line. Follow the slabby right-trending groove to a rest in a cave (complete with seasonal bird's... | 3 Stars | HS 4c |
5 |
Loony's Lament 14m. A reasonable climb up a decent line but often overlooked. The groove can be a bit ferny if there has been no recent... | 1 Stars | HVS 5b |
6 |
Great Wall 14m. A great climb linking a series of features up the right-hand edge of the smoothest rock - a true Northumbrian classic.... | 3 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5b |
7 |
Great Wall Direct Finish 14m. From where Great Wall moves right continue up the mini-ramp running left across the wall, finishing with a long reach from... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Reachy Fluttery | E5 6a |
8 |
Fox's Hole 20m. Link two corners with some quality grass rambling. | D | |
9 |
Karabiner Crack 6m. The short groove at the left end of the ledge is quite taxing. | Technical | VS 5a |
10 |
Spare Rib 6m. The blunt rib is technical and bold. | Technical Fluttery | E4 6a |
11 |
Bilberry Wall 8m. Climb the shallow groove and thin crack until a short traverse out left can be made to a finish close to the arete. | Technical | VS 4c |
