Great Wall

Adjacent Areas
< East Buttress  |  Central Gully and Main Wall >

Trad
Evening sun
Uphill
20 mins

This fine smooth wall is home to a great HVS, Great Wall, and the superb HS of Idiot's Delight. There are other worthwhile offerings too. The buttress is above the point where the northern approach track arrives at the crag.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Hawk Slab
12m. Climb the slabby arete past a grassy ledge to a finish on the right of the final steeper section.
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
2
Dove's Nest Crack
12m. The narrowing leaning chimney gives a character-building battle to pass the steepest section.
 
Graunchy
HVS 5a
3
Patchett's Plunge
12m. The rib gives a good pitch that is poorly protected unless some lateral deviousness is employed - in which case it isn't...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E3 5b
4
Idiot's Delight
14m. A great climb up a fine line. Follow the slabby right-trending groove to a rest in a cave (complete with seasonal bird's...
 
3 Stars
HS 4c
5
Loony's Lament
14m. A reasonable climb up a decent line but often overlooked. The groove can be a bit ferny if there has been no recent...
 
1 Stars
HVS 5b
6
Great Wall
14m. A great climb linking a series of features up the right-hand edge of the smoothest rock - a true Northumbrian classic....
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5b
7
Great Wall Direct Finish
14m. From where Great Wall moves right continue up the mini-ramp running left across the wall, finishing with a long reach from...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E5 6a
8
Fox's Hole
20m. Link two corners with some quality grass rambling.
 D
9
Karabiner Crack
6m. The short groove at the left end of the ledge is quite taxing.
 
Technical
VS 5a
10
Spare Rib
6m. The blunt rib is technical and bold.
 
Technical
Fluttery
E4 6a
11
Bilberry Wall
8m. Climb the shallow groove and thin crack until a short traverse out left can be made to a finish close to the arete.
 
Technical
VS 4c
  • Latest Comments

    For GREAT WANNEY

    Main Wall
    "4b move to start with the potential for an awkward landing (given you start on a..." 17/Apr top50

    Broken Wing
    "Almost as good as Thin Ice, for which it is an obligatory companion / warm-up, a..." 11/Apr

    Main Wall
    "A hard move to start, then sparsely protected VDiff, with quite an exciting fini..." 23/Jun top50

    Northumberland Wall
    "Climbed in a fine drizzle which we didn't think affect things too much as it is ..." 04/Oct top50

    Great Wall Direct Finish
    "Definitely not pumpy, not fluttery if you are used to the grade, and not reachy ..." 12/Sep

    Northumberland Wall
    "Overgraded. E1 5b." 12/Sep top50

    Absent Friend
    "This is indeed a strange description, there is no block on the route. A better d..." 03/Sep

    Thin Ice
    "another fairly misleading description" 05/Jul top50

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