Central Gully and Main Wall

Trad
Evening sun
20 mins
Uphill

A deep-cut rift bites into the cliff with good hard climbs on the walls and some easier stuff in the depths. The routes are sheltered but also inclined to be green. Main Wall is the clean west-facing sheet of rock round to the right.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Nose Chimney
14m. Traverse into the hanging chimney from the left (or struggle direct - S 4b) then continue to a grassy ledge. The upper...
 VD
2
The Last Retreat
14m. Access the hanging nose above the first roof from left or right then climb the right-hand side of the arete to ledges....
 
1 Stars
Strong
E4 6a
3
Nosey Parker
15m. A bold line up the slim ramp on the left wall of the gully. Use the right-hand start of The Last Retreat but continue up...
 
2 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E5 6a
4
Central Gully East
14m. The left-hand corner-crack in the back of the gully is accessed using the convenient tall flake. Continue up the groove.
 
1 Stars
D
5
Central Gully West
14m. The right-hand version is steeper and more awkward.
 
1 Stars
S 4a
6
Northumberland Wall Top 50
14m. A great climb up the groove and crack cleaving the right wall of the gloomy recess - honest hard work and well protected...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5c
7
Osiris
14m. Gain the crack above the roof and follow it up onto the arete. Swap sides then finish up the bold arete.
 
Fluttery
E3 5c
8
Pharaoh's Face
16m. Climb a short crack then continue past the overhang to reach a shrubby ledge. Move left onto the exposed arete to finish.
 
Fluttery
E3 5c
9
Main Wall Top 50
16m. Worthwhile, with pleasant open climbing, protection is a bit lacking. Start on the right and follow holds up and left to...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
S 4a
10
Lichen Chimney
14m. The long groove that bounds the wall on the right.
 
1 Stars
M
11
The Brute
10m. The well named leaning groove is climbed with difficulty.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
HVS 5a
12
Enery's Ammer
10m. The vague open groove is protected by double overhangs. Pull past these on good holds then climb the groove precariously.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5b
13
Sweethope Crack
10m. Pull past the left end of an overlap then trend right to the base of the the steep groove. This has some tricky moves...
 
1 Stars
Technical
HS 4b
14
Squeezy Bill
10m. The blocks (or cracks to either side) lead to the base of the chimney. This is awkward but short lived.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VD
15
Rake's Crack
12m. The long groove and crack in the arete give a fine pitch, sustained, well protected and with a hard finish.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
E1 5b
16
Rake's Arete
14m. Climb the flaky rib until things turn mean and the best course is to head over to Jacob's Ladder to exit.
 
1 Stars
VD
  • Latest Comments

    For GREAT WANNEY

    Main Wall
    "4b move to start with the potential for an awkward landing (given you start on a..." 17/Apr top50

    Broken Wing
    "Almost as good as Thin Ice, for which it is an obligatory companion / warm-up, a..." 11/Apr

    Main Wall
    "A hard move to start, then sparsely protected VDiff, with quite an exciting fini..." 23/Jun top50

    Northumberland Wall
    "Climbed in a fine drizzle which we didn't think affect things too much as it is ..." 04/Oct top50

    Great Wall Direct Finish
    "Definitely not pumpy, not fluttery if you are used to the grade, and not reachy ..." 12/Sep

    Northumberland Wall
    "Overgraded. E1 5b." 12/Sep top50

    Absent Friend
    "This is indeed a strange description, there is no block on the route. A better d..." 03/Sep

    Thin Ice
    "another fairly misleading description" 05/Jul top50

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