Adjacent Areas
< Great Wall | Jacob's Ladder and West Buttress >
Trad
Evening sun
Uphill
20 minsWindy
A deep-cut rift bites into the cliff with good hard climbs on the walls and some easier stuff in the depths. The routes are sheltered but also inclined to be green. Main Wall is the clean west-facing sheet of rock round to the right. Guidebook page 272.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Nose Chimney 14m. Traverse into the hanging chimney from the left (or struggle direct - S 4b) then continue to a grassy ledge. The upper... | VD | |
2 |
The Last Retreat 14m. Access the hanging nose above the first roof from left or right then climb the right-hand side of the arete to ledges.... | 1 Stars Strong | E4 6a |
3 |
Nosey Parker 15m. A bold line up the slim ramp on the left wall of the gully. Use the right-hand start of The Last Retreat but continue up... | 2 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E5 6a |
4 |
Central Gully East 14m. The left-hand corner-crack in the back of the gully is accessed using the convenient tall flake. Continue up the groove. | 1 Stars | D |
5 |
Central Gully West 14m. The right-hand version is steeper and more awkward. | 1 Stars | S 4a |
6 |
Northumberland Wall Top 50 14m. A great climb up the groove and crack cleaving the right wall of the gloomy recess - honest hard work and well protected... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | E2 5c |
7 |
Osiris 14m. Gain the crack above the roof and follow it up onto the arete. Swap sides then finish up the bold arete. | Fluttery | E3 5c |
8 |
Pharaoh's Face 16m. Climb a short crack then continue past the overhang to reach a shrubby ledge. Move left onto the exposed arete to finish. | Fluttery | E3 5c |
9 |
Main Wall Top 50 16m. Worthwhile, with pleasant open climbing, protection is a bit lacking. Start on the right and follow holds up and left to... 2 user comments | 2 Stars | S 4a |
10 |
Lichen Chimney 14m. The long groove that bounds the wall on the right. | 1 Stars | M |
11 |
The Brute 10m. The well named leaning groove is climbed with difficulty. | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | HVS 5a |
12 |
Enery's Ammer 10m. The vague open groove is protected by double overhangs. Pull past these on good holds then climb the groove precariously. | 1 Stars Fluttery | E2 5b |
13 |
Sweethope Crack 10m. Pull past the left end of an overlap then trend right to the base of the the steep groove. This has some tricky moves... | 1 Stars Technical | HS 4b |
14 |
Squeezy Bill 10m. The blocks (or cracks to either side) lead to the base of the chimney. This is awkward but short lived. | 1 Stars Graunchy | VD |
15 |
Rake's Crack 12m. The long groove and crack in the arete give a fine pitch, sustained, well protected and with a hard finish. | 2 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | E1 5b |
16 |
Rake's Arete 14m. Climb the flaky rib until things turn mean and the best course is to head over to Jacob's Ladder to exit. | 1 Stars | VD |
