Blatant Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< None  |  Blackwell Halt >

Sport
Lots of sun!
15 mins
Downhill
Sheltered
Restricted Access

This well-named little buttress is a bit too close to the active railway line for comfort, although the line is exclusively used by quarry traffic, so tends not to be used at weekends.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Chug, Chug, Chug
The short steep wall on the far left.
 
Pumpy
6b
2
For the Good of the Cause
Start behind the tree and follow the broken groove above. The bolts are a bit spaced.
 
Loose
5a
3
Close to the Edge
The short corner on the lower wall is awkward. Higher up, keep to the left of the arete.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6a+
4
Every Breath You Take
The longest section of good rock on the buttress but it is a wandering line. At the mid-height break you can climb direct up...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
5
Eye Catching Cod Piece
A direct line slightly spoilt by a ledge on the right higher up. Eschewing the ledge adds challenge and enjoyment.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
6
Pipistrelle
Share a start with the previous two routes then head right up the blunt arete and sadly, short wall.
 
1 Stars
6a
7
Rave On
Indifferent climbing not helped much by the dirty ledge at half-height.
 6a
8
Chill Out
The roof is easier than it looks (clip the bolt on Feel the Beat for added security). The final slab has one tricky move aided...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
6a+
9
Feel the Beat
The best of the easier routes with hard moves to gain a rest above the break and a well-positioned final slab. There is a...
 
1 Stars
6b
10
Emission Control
After a taxing start the upper groove gives fine climbing on unhelpful lay-aways.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
7a+
11
Good Vibrations
Climb direct to reach a tricky groove. The best of the harder routes.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
12
Wobbly Wheels
Links the routes either side via some desperate moves.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
13
Loco-Motion
The right-hand route can be started from the easy lower groove of Love is a Swallow or (harder) from Good Vibrations.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7a
14
Love is a Swallow
The right-slanting groove on the right-hand end of the wall. Move back onto the wall near the top.
 6a+
15
The Runaway Train
A direct version of Love is a Swallow.
 6a+
16
Came down the Track
A thin wall climb.
 6b
17
One Track Offensive
Break right from Came Down the Track to a curving groove.
 6a
18
Burning Rails
The final line, past a grassy ledge on the right.
 5c