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Another fine free-standing tower of sandstone ringed by a great selection of routes. The front face is especially impressive but there are good climbs on all sides, and a few more on the short wall right behind the tower. Most of the routes on the pinnacle manage to feel hard for their given grade - but that is Northumberland for you! The descent is by revering Layback, the wide crack splitting the inside face. Guidebook page 289.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Layback 8m. The wide and awkward crack is also the normal descent. | Graunchy | VD |
2 |
The Nark 8m. Hop onto the slab and climb the creased wall, trending left. | Rounded | VS 4c |
3 |
Dawes' Route 8m. The broad blunt rib is fiercely technical; it eases with height. | 1 Stars Technical Rounded | E5 6c |
4 |
The Squealer 8m. The right wall gives a much easier approach to the rib. | Rounded | E2 5c |
5 |
Scoop Crack 8m. Good moves up the cracked scoop feature. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | HS 4b |
6 |
Cat's Whiskers 8m. Nice climbing up the right-hand (uncracked) scoop. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical | HVS 5b |
7 |
Hot Bricks 8m. The wall right of the north east arete on indifferent holds. | E1 5c | |
8 |
East Wall 8m. Trend right to a dirty ledge in the centre of the face and finish direct from here, with a choice of lines. | S 4a | |
9 |
Sunny Sunday 10m. Wander up the centre of the face starting from the pointed block at it base. Dirty, unprotected and rarely climbed. | Rounded Fluttery | E2 5c |
10 |
Crocodile Arete 16m. The stunning north east arete of the tower gives a magnificent pitch. A dynamic start gains the first break then continue... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E7 6c |
11 |
Old Man River 18m. Lacking in line but with some good climbing. Cross the roof as for Honeymoon Crack then follow the diagonal crack... | 1 Stars Pumpy Rounded | E4 6a |
12 |
Honeymoon Crack 16m. The superb crack rising above the huge overhang is a must. Battle with the overhang to reach the crack (get the heavy... | 3 Stars Pumpy Graunchy | E3 6a |
13 |
Trial Separation 18m. Climb the undercut right arete using a trio of large and spaced pockets to pass the initial overhang. Continue past a... | 2 Stars Pumpy Rounded | E4 6b |
14 |
Rock and Roll Star 16m. Climb the wall on slopers and poor pockets to the break (bold) then move out left and finish up the arete. | 1 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E5 6a |
15 |
Candle in the Wind 18m. Devious but excellent, and another one that is high in the grade. Access the left-hand of a pair of flaky cracks and climb... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Fluttery | E3 5c |
16 |
Gates of Eden 16m. High in the grade. Climb the centre of the wall using the right-hand flake-system to a mini-cave. Move left and gain the... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Reachy Pumpy Rounded | E2 5c |
17 |
Paradise Lost 14m. The direct finish to Gates of Eden. Exit directly from the cave to a rounded and worrying finish up the rib. | 2 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E5 6b |
18 |
Borstal Boy 12m. Climb the wall to a jutting nose and cross this on good holds to the base of a ramp. Finish delicately up the left arete. 1 user comment | Rounded | E1 5b |
19 |
The Crescent 12m. Start up the crack to the first ledge then move right and hand traverse the edge of the crack until access to the wider... | 1 Stars Graunchy | S 4b |
20 |
Crescent Wall 12m. Good varied climbing. Up the wide curving crack until the ledge at the base of the groove on the left can be reached.... | 2 Stars Rounded | VS 4b |
21 |
Wide Eyed and Legless 10m. Another bizarre route and well named. Make scary progress by bridging between the two sharp aretes until it is possible to... | 1 Stars Fluttery | E4 5c |