Second Pinnacle

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill
50 mins

Another fine free-standing tower of sandstone ringed by a great selection of routes. The front face is especially impressive but there are good climbs on all sides, and a few more on the short wall right behind the tower. Most of the routes on the pinnacle manage to feel hard for their given grade - but that is Northumberland for you! The descent is by revering Layback, the wide crack splitting the inside face. Guidebook page 289.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Layback
8m. The wide and awkward crack is also the normal descent.
 
Graunchy
VD
2
The Nark
8m. Hop onto the slab and climb the creased wall, trending left.
 
Rounded
VS 4c
3
Dawes' Route
8m. The broad blunt rib is fiercely technical; it eases with height.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Rounded
E5 6c
4
The Squealer
8m. The right wall gives a much easier approach to the rib.
 
Rounded
E2 5c
5
Scoop Crack
8m. Good moves up the cracked scoop feature.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
6
Cat's Whiskers
8m. Nice climbing up the right-hand (uncracked) scoop.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS 5b
7
Hot Bricks
8m. The wall right of the north east arete on indifferent holds.
 E1 5c
8
East Wall
8m. Trend right to a dirty ledge in the centre of the face and finish direct from here, with a choice of lines.
 S 4a
9
Sunny Sunday
10m. Wander up the centre of the face starting from the pointed block at it base. Dirty, unprotected and rarely climbed.
 
Rounded
Fluttery
E2 5c
10
Crocodile Arete
16m. The stunning north east arete of the tower gives a magnificent pitch. A dynamic start gains the first break then continue...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E7 6c
11
Old Man River
18m. Lacking in line but with some good climbing. Cross the roof as for Honeymoon Crack then follow the diagonal crack...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
E4 6a
12
Honeymoon Crack
16m. The superb crack rising above the huge overhang is a must. Battle with the overhang to reach the crack (get the heavy...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
E3 6a
13
Trial Separation
18m. Climb the undercut right arete using a trio of large and spaced pockets to pass the initial overhang. Continue past a...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
E4 6b
14
Rock and Roll Star
16m. Climb the wall on slopers and poor pockets to the break (bold) then move out left and finish up the arete.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E5 6a
15
Candle in the Wind
18m. Devious but excellent, and another one that is high in the grade. Access the left-hand of a pair of flaky cracks and climb...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
E3 5c
16
Gates of Eden
16m. High in the grade. Climb the centre of the wall using the right-hand flake-system to a mini-cave. Move left and gain the...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
Rounded
E2 5c
17
Paradise Lost
14m. The direct finish to Gates of Eden. Exit directly from the cave to a rounded and worrying finish up the rib.
 
2 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E5 6b
18
Borstal Boy
12m. Climb the wall to a jutting nose and cross this on good holds to the base of a ramp. Finish delicately up the left arete.
1 user comment
 
Rounded
E1 5b
19
The Crescent
12m. Start up the crack to the first ledge then move right and hand traverse the edge of the crack until access to the wider...
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
S 4b
20
Crescent Wall
12m. Good varied climbing. Up the wide curving crack until the ledge at the base of the groove on the left can be reached....
 
2 Stars
Rounded
VS 4b
21
Wide Eyed and Legless
10m. Another bizarre route and well named. Make scary progress by bridging between the two sharp aretes until it is possible to...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E4 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For RAVENSHEUGH

    Verbal Abuse
    "The Direct is called Lupino Lane E2 7a!" 28/Jul

    Pendulum Direct
    "Definately HVS - the lower crack is hard work. Pendulum is a lot easier." 28/Jul

    Candle in the Wind
    "The original finish is up the superb arete, not the scoop." 15/Aug

    Pink Lane
    "Abseiled to clean - no gear until the ledge on the arete, slopey crux with possi..." 09/Sep

    T.C.
    "Direct start to arete is Penfold V8" 12/Sep

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