Adjacent Areas
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Evening sun
Uphill
50 minsWindy
The left-hand section of the main part of the cliff is an attractive rippled buttress. Unfortunately it is steeper and blanker than it looks so the majority of the routes are serious undertakings. The classic of Pendulum redresses the balance a little. Guidebook page 286.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Pete's Ploy 8m. The left wall of the buttress is rounded and bold. | 1 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E2 5b |
2 |
Plumbline 10m. The rounded arete is technical and bold (as in no gear). | 3 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E5 6a |
3 |
The Judas Hole 10m. Poorly protected climbing up the crescent-shaped groove and wall just left of the crack of Pendulum. The 'hole' of the... | 2 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E5 6a |
4 |
Pendulum Direct 10m. Follow the crack throughout. It eases with height. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | VS 4c |
5 |
Pendulum 10m. Gain the base of the main crack from the thinner crack to the right by a tricky traverse. Continue up it. | 3 Stars Pumpy | VS 4c |
6 |
Hanging Chimney 10m. The angle of the buttress. Hard exiting the bottleneck. | 1 Stars Graunchy | S 4b |
7 |
Billy Biscuit 10m. Another of those excellent, tough, rounded and serious aretes. A dyno may be needed to link the half-decent holds. | 3 Stars Reachy Rounded Fluttery | E5 6a |
8 |
Lapse of Reason 10m. The blunt rib in the centre of the face, trending slightly right to a harrowing finish | 1 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E5 6a |
9 |
Easter Grooves 12m. Start up the arete, then move right and follow the ramp and groove to steeper rock until it is possible to get left onto a... | 1 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E2 5b |