East Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Evening sun
Uphill
50 mins

The left-hand section of the main part of the cliff is an attractive rippled buttress. Unfortunately it is steeper and blanker than it looks so the majority of the routes are serious undertakings. The classic of Pendulum redresses the balance a little. Guidebook page 286.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Pete's Ploy
8m. The left wall of the buttress is rounded and bold.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E2 5b
2
Plumbline
10m. The rounded arete is technical and bold (as in no gear).
 
3 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E5 6a
3
The Judas Hole
10m. Poorly protected climbing up the crescent-shaped groove and wall just left of the crack of Pendulum. The 'hole' of the...
 
2 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E5 6a
4
Pendulum Direct
10m. Follow the crack throughout. It eases with height.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
VS 4c
5
Pendulum
10m. Gain the base of the main crack from the thinner crack to the right by a tricky traverse. Continue up it.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
6
Hanging Chimney
10m. The angle of the buttress. Hard exiting the bottleneck.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
S 4b
7
Billy Biscuit
10m. Another of those excellent, tough, rounded and serious aretes. A dyno may be needed to link the half-decent holds.
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
Fluttery
E5 6a
8
Lapse of Reason
10m. The blunt rib in the centre of the face, trending slightly right to a harrowing finish
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E5 6a
9
Easter Grooves
12m. Start up the arete, then move right and follow the ramp and groove to steeper rock until it is possible to get left onto a...
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E2 5b
  • Latest Comments

    For RAVENSHEUGH

    Verbal Abuse
    "The Direct is called Lupino Lane E2 7a!" 28/Jul

    Pendulum Direct
    "Definately HVS - the lower crack is hard work. Pendulum is a lot easier." 28/Jul

    Candle in the Wind
    "The original finish is up the superb arete, not the scoop." 15/Aug

    Pink Lane
    "Abseiled to clean - no gear until the ledge on the arete, slopey crux with possi..." 09/Sep

    T.C.
    "Direct start to arete is Penfold V8" 12/Sep

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