Central Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Evening sun
20 mins
Up and Down
Restricted Access

The most extensive buttress on the cliff and just about the furthest decent piece of rock from the car park. The NMC Northumberland Climbing Guide (2004) lists over 25 routes; here are ten of the best as a sampler. Access - The crag often has birds nesting on it in the spring - check the BMC RAD for the current situation. Guidebook page 252.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Stephenson's Rocket
22m. A fine climb up the hanging pillar up and right of the tree. Climb the rib then the groove to the roof and pull leftwards...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E4 5c
2
Main Wall Route Two
30m. Start left of the toe of the buttress and climb a groove and overhang to access the face. Up this - technical and...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
HVS 5a
3
Main Wall
34m. A great classic. It can be done in two pitches. From the toe of the buttress, trend up and right to the rib and climb this...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
HS 4b
4
Great Chimney Top 50
26m. The long groove in the back left-hand corner of the bay leads, with sustained interest, to a huge rock blocking the way....
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Graunchy
HS 4b
5
Impossible Wall
26m. The big smooth wall was originally an aid route and now gives a fine free climb. There is a hard move early on but...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E4 6b
6
Left Organ Pipe
24m. The left-hand groove gives a fine sustained pitch with an awkward chimney, some good jamming to reach a big flake and a...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
7
Neglect
24m. A bit green, but has some good climbing, a bit like the whole crag really. Head up the wall to the right of Right Organ...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
8
Grad's Groove
22m. The front of the buttress is split by a steep groove, climb this to a ledge then continue up the easier chimney above.
 
2 Stars
Technical
VS 4b
9
Crystal
22m. A little devious but with excellent, varied and exposed climbing. Head up the awkward left-leaning groove, then move left...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
HVS 5a
10
Y Climb
14m. ... why not? The diverging cracks in the west wall are worth doing. Gain the single lower crack from the right by a swing...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
  • Latest Comments

    For CRAG LOUGH

    Pinnacle Face
    "The thuggy direct didn't seem very thuggy to me" 14/Aug

    Impossible Wall
    "Needs a clean." 11/Apr

    Great Chimney
    "excellent climb, could do with more traffic as its quite vegetated at the start,..." 13/Sep top50

    Main Wall
    "We split this into two pitches which makes for 2 contrasting pitches. The rock ..." 09/Aug

    Jezebel
    "A poor route, inexpicably overrated. Much vegetation, with some unexceptional c..." 13/Jun

    Crystal
    "A cracking climb, one of the best on the crag. Something for everyone ending wit..." 07/Jun

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