Adjacent Areas
< None | Dexter Buttress & Raven's Tower >
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Evening sun
Up and Down
20 minsWindy
Restricted Access
Occasional restriction for nesting birds
The most extensive buttress on the cliff and just about the furthest decent piece of rock from the car park. The NMC Northumberland Climbing Guide (2004) lists over 25 routes; here are ten of the best as a sampler. Access - The crag often has birds nesting on it in the spring - check the BMC RAD for the current situation. Guidebook page 252.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Stephenson's Rocket 22m. A fine climb up the hanging pillar up and right of the tree. Climb the rib then the groove to the roof and pull leftwards... | 1 Stars Pumpy | E4 5c |
2 |
Main Wall Route Two 30m. Start left of the toe of the buttress and climb a groove and overhang to access the face. Up this - technical and... | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | HVS 5a |
3 |
Main Wall 34m. A great classic. It can be done in two pitches. From the toe of the buttress, trend up and right to the rib and climb this... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Pumpy | HS 4b |
4 |
Great Chimney Top 50 26m. The long groove in the back left-hand corner of the bay leads, with sustained interest, to a huge rock blocking the way.... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Graunchy | HS 4b |
5 |
Impossible Wall 26m. The big smooth wall was originally an aid route and now gives a fine free climb. There is a hard move early on but... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Technical Crimpy | E4 6b |
6 |
Left Organ Pipe 24m. The left-hand groove gives a fine sustained pitch with an awkward chimney, some good jamming to reach a big flake and a... | 1 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5a |
7 |
Neglect 24m. A bit green, but has some good climbing, a bit like the whole crag really. Head up the wall to the right of Right Organ... | 1 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5a |
8 |
Grad's Groove 22m. The front of the buttress is split by a steep groove, climb this to a ledge then continue up the easier chimney above. | 2 Stars Technical | VS 4b |
9 |
Crystal 22m. A little devious but with excellent, varied and exposed climbing. Head up the awkward left-leaning groove, then move left... 1 user comment | 3 Stars | HVS 5a |
10 |
Y Climb 14m. ... why not? The diverging cracks in the west wall are worth doing. Gain the single lower crack from the right by a swing... | 1 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5a |
