Plum Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Evening sun
Up and Down
15 mins
Seepage

A magnificent buttress which dominates the western end of the Dale and has a small set of top-notch routes, both trad and sport. Only three of the routes are within the ticking reach of most climbers but these are all of the highest quality, and include Sirplum, one of the finest E1s in the country. Guidebook page 186.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
My Secret Life
The wall left of the big arete left of The Stalk has a steep start through the overlaps.
 
Loose
E5 6b
2
Wilderness Years
The once-disputed line left of the arete was bolted to give a tricky sport route with a desperate crux and some loose rock.
 
Technical
Loose
7b+
3
The Stalk
The open-corner on the left of the buttress gives a great outing on good holds with plenty of solid runners after a vegetated...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
4
Scratch Race
The big rounded arete left of The Stalk reached from the base of that route. Once had a peg.
 E5 6a
5
Aplomb
A superbly exposed trip through unbelievable territory at the grade. The grade reflects the overall sustained nature of the...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5a
6
Victoria
A neglected trad route which is seldom climbed.1) 5a, 25m. Climb leftwards across the wall then up to the break.2) 5c,...
 
Loose
E3 5c
7
Mrs Brown
Climb the wall left of the Big Plum groove to the break. Move left and pull over as for Victoria, then move back right and up...
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c
8
Raisin Roof
The first route over the big roof to be freed. From the first stance on The Big Plum, move up left and pull through the roof...
 
1 Stars
Strong
E5 6b
9
The Big Plum
Once this was the big challenge of Chee Dale but the resulting free version is not quite the mega-route that was hoped for....
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Strong
E6 6c
10
Damson in Distress
The sport version of the Big Plum is bolted from the roof upwards, finishing rightwards up the final section of The Spider. To...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
11
The Spider
A major route tackling the roof at its widest point which gives good moves separated by decent rests and the odd bit of dodgy...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
8a
12
Sloe Gin
A superb hard route which is well protected by pegs and bolts.1) -, 10m. Climb Sirplum to a hanging belay in a scoop.2)...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
E6 6b
13
Sirplum Top 50
One of the great ticks in the Peak which reaches positions that other E1s don't - an amazing outing. Apart from one technical...
15 user comments
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
E1 5b
14
The Plumb-line Finish
Pull directly over the bulge from above the thread on P2 of Sirplum.
1 user comment
 E1 5b
15
The Defector
Direct finish from above the pillar on P2 of Sirplum.
 E2 5c
16
Peggy Sue
Scrappy super-direct finish to Sirplum up flakes above the hard initial bulge move on pitch 2.
 E1 5a
17
Little Big Climb
Short wall on opposite the steep hill below the A6 lay-by.
 
Technical
7a
18
Double Topley
The right-hand line on the wall opposite the steep hill below the A6 lay-by.
 
Technical
7a+
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  • Latest Comments

    For CHEE DALE UPPER

    Kakaho
    "Not easy to determine the line of this based on the 2004 guide. The features are..." 18/Jul

    No Hiding Plaice
    "Great climbing all the way" 21/Aug

    Lightweight
    "The traverse at the top is the hard part and very good, hard to know what sequen..." 30/May

    Spank Me Senseless with a Wet Herring
    "A lovely little route. Little-used so bring a trowel." 11/May

    Max-a-Million
    "just jump." 03/Aug

    Unzipping the Wild Physique
    "Bizzare route! Either belay miles back on a small tree or just sit behind the wa..." 26/Jul

    The Lockless Monster
    "7c/+. Great bouldery route." 24/Jul

    Stung
    "A link starting as for Stung and finishing up Esmerelda has been done, Ouch, gra..." 08/Jul

    Black Max
    "Actually a pretty good route and makes the best warm up. Can clip bolts on other..." 26/May

    Poor Dill
    "Borderline 7c - great crux sequence over the bulge though." 25/May

    Quality Control
    "Really enjoyable route on good rock with a nice variation in the moves, from pow..." 05/May

    Sirplum
    "Well one of the best climbs I ever done pumpy but keep going and you soon be at ..." 25/Jul top50

    Max-a-Million
    "I have a 5"10 span and can just reach the good crimp below the jug! You nee..." 11/Jul

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