Adjacent Areas
< Boulder Face | 'A' Buttress >
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Afternoon sun
Uphill
30 minsWindy
The main feature of the crag is the well named wide crack-line that still succumbs most easily to a bold and pushy feeling layback. There are some worthwhile and popular easier routes here and also a collection of high-quality desperates that see a little less attention. The routes are generally clean and rapid drying. Guidebook page 297.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Boulder Face Corner 5m. The angular corner right of the ochre streak. | M | |
2 |
Nameless Wall 6m. A nameless route (sad isn't it?) up the the centre of the side wall, following the thin crack system. | Crimpy | VS 4c |
3 |
Boulder Face Crack 8m. Just right of the prow is a right slanting crack-line, widening as it rises; follow this. | D | |
4 |
Innominate Crack 8m. Pleasant and interesting climbing up the long crack in the left-hand side of the face. | 2 Stars | VD |
5 |
Flake Corner 10m. Follow the slanting flake to its tip and stand on this with | 1 Stars Technical | VS 4c |
6 |
Flake Corner Direct 10m. From a standing position on the flake, finish straight up the wall for a more satisfying finale. | 1 Stars Crimpy | HVS 5a |
7 |
Flake Chimney 10m. The chimney would be awkward without the flake on the right wall that gives it its name. | VD | |
8 |
Vibram Wall 10m. Sustained and well protected climbing up the thin crack that splits the wall right of the chimney. Originally pegged. | 2 Stars Crimpy | HVS 5a |
9 |
On Edge 10m. The axe-edged arete is followed throughout on its right-hand side - bold and balancy. The narrow wall just right again is... | 1 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E2 5b |
10 |
Long Layback Crack 12m. One of the classics of the cliff - a great line and with bold sustained laybacking being the order of the day. Very big... | 3 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | VS 4c |
11 |
AKA Mr. Vegas 12m. The blank wall has sustained climbing. There is a decent hold under the slim overlap from where to assess your options,... | 3 Stars Technical Crimpy Fluttery | E7 6c |
12 |
Command Performance 12m. The central line on the wall gives an excellent pitch. Follow small holds to the overlap then trend rightwards for a... | 3 Stars Technical | E4 6b |
13 |
Over the Edge 12m. Layback the right arete to runners under the overhang then move round the arete and access the thin crack; climb this with... | 3 Stars | E3 5c |
14 |
Dirty Corner 10m. The deep cleft often isn't as dirty as you might expect. | VD | |
15 |
On the Border 10m. The steep groove in the right wall of the chimney is worth doing when it is clean and dry - sadly it usually isn't either. | Pumpy | E3 5c |
16 |
Dry Run 10m. The arete is climbed direct, or reached from On the Border. | Pumpy | E2 5b |
17 |
Staircase Chimney 10m. The narrow rift is awkward and often a bit shrubby. | D | |