Long Layback

Adjacent Areas
< Boulder Face  |  'A' Buttress >

Trad
Afternoon sun
30 mins
Uphill

The main feature of the crag is the well named wide crack-line that still succumbs most easily to a bold and pushy feeling layback. There are some worthwhile and popular easier routes here and also a collection of high-quality desperates that see a little less attention. The routes are generally clean and rapid drying. Guidebook page 297.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Boulder Face Corner
5m. The angular corner right of the ochre streak.
 M
2
Nameless Wall
6m. A nameless route (sad isn't it?) up the the centre of the side wall, following the thin crack system.
 
Crimpy
VS 4c
3
Boulder Face Crack
8m. Just right of the prow is a right slanting crack-line, widening as it rises; follow this.
 D
4
Innominate Crack
8m. Pleasant and interesting climbing up the long crack in the left-hand side of the face.
 
2 Stars
VD
5
Flake Corner
10m. Follow the slanting flake to its tip and stand on this with
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS 4c
6
Flake Corner Direct
10m. From a standing position on the flake, finish straight up the wall for a more satisfying finale.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
HVS 5a
7
Flake Chimney
10m. The chimney would be awkward without the flake on the right wall that gives it its name.
 VD
8
Vibram Wall
10m. Sustained and well protected climbing up the thin crack that splits the wall right of the chimney. Originally pegged.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
HVS 5a
9
On Edge
10m. The axe-edged arete is followed throughout on its right-hand side - bold and balancy. The narrow wall just right again is...
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E2 5b
10
Long Layback Crack
12m. One of the classics of the cliff - a great line and with bold sustained laybacking being the order of the day. Very big...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
VS 4c
11
AKA Mr. Vegas
12m. The blank wall has sustained climbing. There is a decent hold under the slim overlap from where to assess your options,...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
E7 6c
12
Command Performance
12m. The central line on the wall gives an excellent pitch. Follow small holds to the overlap then trend rightwards for a...
 
3 Stars
Technical
E4 6b
13
Over the Edge
12m. Layback the right arete to runners under the overhang then move round the arete and access the thin crack; climb this with...
 
3 Stars
E3 5c
14
Dirty Corner
10m. The deep cleft often isn't as dirty as you might expect.
 VD
15
On the Border
10m. The steep groove in the right wall of the chimney is worth doing when it is clean and dry - sadly it usually isn't either.
 
Pumpy
E3 5c
16
Dry Run
10m. The arete is climbed direct, or reached from On the Border.
 
Pumpy
E2 5b
17
Staircase Chimney
10m. The narrow rift is awkward and often a bit shrubby.
 D
  • Latest Comments

    For SIMONSIDE

    Quartz Buttress
    "Good route (except in humid conditions when, like the rest of the climbing here,..." 09/Sep

    Kyley's Route
    "I think this deserves a fluttery hear symbol, as gear comes well after the hard ..." 12/Sep

    Cut Throat
    "Yes the fall potential is far greater than the length of the route!" 03/Sep

    Cut Throat
    "Don't waste your time carrying protection, as you wont find anywhere to place it..." 02/Sep

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