'A' Buttress

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Trad
Afternoon sun
30 mins
Uphill

The left-hand of the three taller buttresses has an excellent set of climbs which can conveniently be split at the large ledge, helping to give a mountain feel to the climbs. Generally the rock is clean and rapid drying. Guidebook page 298.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Privy
15m. The left-hand side of the buttress. Climb the centre of the face via a shallow groove then move left and pull over the...
 
Rounded
HVS 5a
2
Giant's Stair
15m. A worthwhile outing up the right edge of the buttress. Start via the right-slanting flake, then move left a little and...
 
2 Stars
Rounded
VS 4c
3
Great Chimney
16m. A fine climb at an amenable grade following a strong line. Climb the chimney until it is possible to tunnel through to...
 
3 Stars
Graunchy
D
4
'A' Buttress Left-hand
8m. An alternative start to the next route.
 VD
5
'A' Buttress Direct
18m. Worthwhile and interesting, though not hugely direct. From the foot of the buttress, head up with a jig right to pass the...
 
2 Stars
Rounded
VD
6
'A' Buttress Right-hand
8m. A right-hand start up the steep wall and short crack/groove.
 
Pumpy
S 4a
7
The God Machine
12m. The tilted and photogenic arete that hangs over the ledge is gained via the rounded rib below. If you fall, don't bounce!
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E3 5c
8
The Wind Tunnel
12m. The large scooped groove is approached via the rather crusty slab. Climb boldly to a steep finish.
 HVS 5a
9
Aeolian Wall
12m. Climb straight up the slab heading for a large 'ear'. Mantel over this then head through the bulges to reach the flanges...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS 5a
10
Delicatessen
12m. A nicely varied classic. Cross the slab rightwards just above the overhangs (delicate) then climb up to the fine crack...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
VS 4c
11
Chockstone Crack
10m. The straight and deep cleft on the right of the tall wall.
 D
12
Archer's Chimney
8m. The next deep chimney reached by a sporting grass bank.
 D
13
Sagittarius
10m. The left-hand crack is probably the pick of the trio.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
14
The Quiver
10m. Wobble up the central crack passing the half-height roof with difficulty.
 
1 Stars
VS 5a
15
Wide Eyed and Witless
10m. The thin right-hand crack passing a mini-peapod.
 
Crimpy
VS 4c
  • Latest Comments

    For SIMONSIDE

    Quartz Buttress
    "Good route (except in humid conditions when, like the rest of the climbing here,..." 09/Sep

    Kyley's Route
    "I think this deserves a fluttery hear symbol, as gear comes well after the hard ..." 12/Sep

    Cut Throat
    "Yes the fall potential is far greater than the length of the route!" 03/Sep

    Cut Throat
    "Don't waste your time carrying protection, as you wont find anywhere to place it..." 02/Sep

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