Adjacent Areas
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Afternoon sun
Downhill
3 minsThis is the show-piece of the crag with some fine and long climbs, often with hard finishes. Audacity and Ranadon are the classic ticks but all are worth doing. The crag base makes a superb picnic area, so it is perhaps best to visit the wall late in the day to make the most out of late afternoon sunshine. Erosion - Please avoid top-roping these routes if possible since the cliff top is eroding badly. Guidebook page 306.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Friday's Child 14m. The left-hand side of the main section of the face. Follow flakes steeply to the break then the fluting to the cave (often... | 1 Stars Pumpy | E3 5c |
2 |
Ash Wednesday 14m. A tough climax high on the wall. Climb out of the right-hand side of the hollow and up the fingery wall to the break.... | 1 Stars Technical Fluttery | E4 6a |
3 |
Ranadon Top 50 16m. A fine climb, interesting and varied, with a well positioned finish. Climb the broad rib (good holds for the right hand)... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Crimpy Fluttery | E2 5b |
4 |
Man Friday 20m. Devious but with some nice climbing, although the bird's nest doesn't add a lot to the experience. Climb the large flake... | 1 Stars Pumpy | VS 4c |
5 |
Audacity 16m. The classic of the crag; a fine line with good and well protected climbing throughout. Climb the flake and/or the wall... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | HVS 5a |
6 |
Tenacity 16m. The final crack will test your determination. Start up Audacity but break right and climb the wall via a fluting before... | 1 Stars Technical | E4 6a |
7 |
Cauliflower Lug 12m. Leap through the lower overhangs to grasp the 'lug' then, once established, step right and climb the shallow groove and... | Reachy Technical | E3 6a |
8 |
Plumbline 12m. A direct line up the right-hand side of the face, tackling the bulges and short slab to a tree belay. | Pumpy | VS 4c |
9 |
Easy Rider 12m. Climb the rounded arete to the dangling branches of the oak, then traverse out right to the arete to finish. | S 4a | |
10 |
False Impression 10m. The wall leads to a quick pull through the bulges. | Strong | VS 5a |
11 |
Black Wall 10m. Follow the flakes to the roof and pass this with some forcefulness. Used to be a bit of a sandbag at VS 4c. | 1 Stars Strong Pumpy | HVS 5a |
12 |
Misunderstanding 12m. The pleasant slab can be climbed anywhere at an amenable grade. The topo shows one of the easier versions of the route. | 1 Stars Rounded | S 4a |
13 |
Cake Walk 14m. Climb the groove on the right then follow good holds away left to eventually reach the trees. | D | |
14 |
Amorous Antics 10m. Make taxing moves through the overlap then finish up the groove in the slab. | Technical | E3 6b |
15 |
Boulder, Crack and Slab 12m. The name says it all. | VD | |
