Adjacent Areas
< Left-hand Buttresses | Right-hand Buttresses >
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Lots of sun!
Uphill
40 minsWindy
The chunk of rock in the centre of the cliff has some outstanding climbs, although the left-hand side wall can be a bit dirty. Under its right-hand side the landing is especially soft. The routes are generally steep and strenuous, plus the majority have testing exits onto the bald top of the buttress. Guidebook page 265.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Dolcis Arete 7m. The left arete to a hard finish. | 1 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E4 6a |
2 |
Rain Drops 8m. The shallow groove right of the arete, to a leftwards exit. | 1 Stars Fluttery | E2 5b |
3 |
Shadow Players 9m. The wall on small holds to a gripping and unprotected exit. | 1 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E4 5c |
4 |
Pot-Hole Wall 10m. Climb the flake to a ledge then move left and use the pothole to reach another harrowing exit. | 1 Stars Crimpy Rounded | E5 6a |
5 |
Shoe Horn 12m. Starting from the right, climb the shallow scoop to a hole. Continue up and right to finish. | 1 Stars Rounded | HVS 5a |
6 |
Tossin' a Wobbler 12m. Pull left out of Callerhues Crack and climb to and through the roof, then wobble up the fingery wall to a hasty exit. | 1 Stars Crimpy Fluttery | E3 5c |
7 |
Callerhues Crack 12m. The classic HVS of the crag, and on this one the grade has always been about right. Follow the flakes rightwards... | 3 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5a |
8 |
Twin Hats 12m. The cracked arete leads to the ledge, head rightwards to the hanging crack which finishes too far short of the top. | 1 Stars Rounded | E3 5c |
9 |
Ned Kelly 12m. Head up the hanging groove then pull rightwards into the crack. Climb this until it fizzles out, then the problems begin -... | 3 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E3 5c |
10 |
Second Born 12m. The leaning crack through the biggest of the bulges is about as impressive as they come, sustained and powerful, though at... | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | E6 6c |
11 |
Callerhues Chimney 12m. The classic rift on the right is often dirty. | 1 Stars Graunchy | HVS 4c |
12 |
Rice Krispies 12m. The left side of the wall, right of the chimney, starting up the thin crack which is less helpful than the wall to its... | 1 Stars Crimpy Fluttery | E4 5c |
13 |
Toshiba Receiver 10m. Hard climbing up the thin features on the right-hand side of the face. | 2 Stars Crimpy Fluttery | E4 5c |