Adjacent Areas
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Lots of sun!
Uphill
40 minsWindy
An interesting set of walls stretching away right until the crag fizzles out. There is quite a selection of butch cracks here and some more open stuff. The cliff finishes with the jutting snout of The Thoroughbred and its excellent collection of climbs - queuing not normally needed for these boys! If treated as boulder problems they should be considered 'highballs' so bring a mat or three. Guidebook page 267.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Cold Start 8m. Desperate moves reach the beckoning flake - occasionally. | Technical | E3 6b |
2 |
Green Fluff 10m. Wrestle with the bulging undercut arete then move left. | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | E4 6b |
3 |
Dulalai T.A.P. 10m. From a ledge, get to the good pocket then swing right to the twin diagonal cracks. Sprint up these. | 1 Stars Technical | E5 6b |
4 |
Sheer Temptation 10m. The steep attractive arete is started on the left and finished on the right, or maybe flat on your back. | 2 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E6 6b |
5 |
The Mongrel 10m. The side wall is climbed right to left, finishing up the arete. | 1 Stars Pumpy | E4 6a |
6 |
Flake Corner 8m. The left corner of the recess is a worthwhile easier route. | 1 Stars Pumpy | HS 4b |
7 |
Polo 8m. The wide right-hand rift, finishing either side of the block. | Graunchy | VD |
8 |
Micro 9m. The slanting flake-crack leads rightwards, then tricky moves have to be made rightwards into the 'lift-shaft' to finish. | E3 5c | |
9 |
Tom 8m. The left-hand of the trio of tough cracks. | 1 Stars Pumpy Graunchy | E1 5b |
10 |
Dick 8m. The sinuous central crack. | 1 Stars Graunchy | HVS 5a |
11 |
Harry 8m. The right-hand crack doesn't quite reach the ground. | 1 Stars Pumpy Graunchy | E1 5b |
12 |
Hanging Crack 8m. The upper part of the wall is split by a hanging seam. Boulder up to reach the seam and climb it to a steady exit. | 1 Stars Technical Fluttery | E2 5c |
13 |
Chouca 8m. The pocketed right-hand side of the wall. | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | E4 6b |
14 |
Bracken Crack 8m. The crack with the bilberry bushes has a gruesome upper part. | Graunchy | E1 5b |
15 |
Cut and Dried 10m. The pocketed left arete is approached by the rib and scoop. | 1 Stars | E2 5b |
16 |
White Rock 10m. Climb the easy rib then balance out right to the flake. | 1 Stars | E2 5b |
17 |
The Lurcher 8m. Lurch up the leaning groove and exit to the right. | 1 Stars Reachy Fluttery | E3 5c |
18 |
The Hyena 10m. A hanging crack reaches a hole then finger-holds lead rightwards to a steep and pushy finish. | 1 Stars Crimpy Fluttery | E2 5c |
19 |
New Kids on the Rock 10m. The double diagonal overlaps are climbed with difficulty to the finish of The Hyena. | 1 Stars Strong | E5 6b |
20 |
The Thoroughbred 10m. Jump for finger-holds then move right and climb to the crack splitting the beak. Finish through this with difficulty. | 3 Stars Strong Rounded | E5 6b |
21 |
Horse Play 8m. The centre of the right-hand wall has a dyno for most, and a hard mantelshelf exit. | 1 Stars Reachy Rounded | E4 6a |