Adjacent Areas
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Sun from mid-morning
Downhill
5 minsThe Witch The attractive slab running rightwards from Holly Tree Corner has a good selection of climbs and, unusually, many of them are not TOO hard for their given grades. Having said that, most are either lacking in protection or have hugely undercut starts, so delicate and scary, or butch and beefy, make your choice. Guidebook page 328.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Holly Tree Corner 14m. Struggle up the long groove with a holly at its base. | 1 Stars Graunchy | S 4b |
2 |
The Witch 12m. Follow the shallow groove to the bulges then make a tricky move to start a sustained traverse away to its right-hand end. | 3 Stars Pumpy | E2 5b |
3 |
Shackletack 12m. A direct line crossing The Witch. | 1 Stars Technical Rounded | E3 6b |
4 |
The Wand 14m. Climb to a ledge above the bulge then continue directly by precarious moves. | 1 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E3 5b |
5 |
The Broomstick 14m. More precarious and poorly protected climbing. | 1 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E3 5b |
6 |
The Enchanter 14m. ... and yet more! Start over the bulge and up the open groove to the break. Serious climbing leads to the upper break and... | 2 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E3 5c |
7 |
Bottle Crack 14m. The bottle-shaped crack needs some bottle (and knees) to start, then eases to give good jamming above. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Pumpy Graunchy | VS 5a |
8 |
The Wizard 14m. Swing along the flake in the roof rightwards until it is possible to use a vertical flake to claw a way round onto easier... | 1 Stars Strong Pumpy | E3 5c |
9 |
Black Magic 14m. The direct entry into the groove across the widest part of the roof is worth doing (V2) the groove itself is less classy. | 1 Stars Strong | E1 5c |
10 |
The Vole Direct 14m. From a useful heel-hook, cross the roof directly to reach a choice of finishes. Originally it followed the thin diagonal... | 1 Stars Strong | E1 5c |
11 |
Sorcerer's Apprentice 14m. Cross the centre of the roof, aiming for the vertical flake just above the lip. Step left to access the flutings, or... | 1 Stars Strong | E1 5c |
12 |
The Sorcerer Top 50 14m. Classy! Cross the roof steeply then pull rightwards into the base of the open groove. Finish delicately up this, or... | 3 Stars Strong Rounded | E1 5c |
13 |
The Charm 14m. Pull through as for The Sorcerer then climb up leftwards by delicate moves, keeping just right of the blunt arete. | 1 Stars Strong Rounded | E1 5c |
