The Witch

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Downhill
5 mins
Sheltered

The Witch The attractive slab running rightwards from Holly Tree Corner has a good selection of climbs and, unusually, many of them are not TOO hard for their given grades. Having said that, most are either lacking in protection or have hugely undercut starts, so delicate and scary, or butch and beefy, make your choice. Guidebook page 328.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Holly Tree Corner
14m. Struggle up the long groove with a holly at its base.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
S 4b
2
The Witch
12m. Follow the shallow groove to the bulges then make a tricky move to start a sustained traverse away to its right-hand end.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5b
3
Shackletack
12m. A direct line crossing The Witch.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Rounded
E3 6b
4
The Wand
14m. Climb to a ledge above the bulge then continue directly by precarious moves.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E3 5b
5
The Broomstick
14m. More precarious and poorly protected climbing.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E3 5b
6
The Enchanter
14m. ... and yet more! Start over the bulge and up the open groove to the break. Serious climbing leads to the upper break and...
 
2 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E3 5c
7
Bottle Crack
14m. The bottle-shaped crack needs some bottle (and knees) to start, then eases to give good jamming above.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
VS 5a
8
The Wizard
14m. Swing along the flake in the roof rightwards until it is possible to use a vertical flake to claw a way round onto easier...
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E3 5c
9
Black Magic
14m. The direct entry into the groove across the widest part of the roof is worth doing (V2) the groove itself is less classy.
 
1 Stars
Strong
E1 5c
10
The Vole Direct
14m. From a useful heel-hook, cross the roof directly to reach a choice of finishes. Originally it followed the thin diagonal...
 
1 Stars
Strong
E1 5c
11
Sorcerer's Apprentice
14m. Cross the centre of the roof, aiming for the vertical flake just above the lip. Step left to access the flutings, or...
 
1 Stars
Strong
E1 5c
12
The Sorcerer Top 50
14m. Classy! Cross the roof steeply then pull rightwards into the base of the open groove. Finish delicately up this, or...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Rounded
E1 5c
13
The Charm
14m. Pull through as for The Sorcerer then climb up leftwards by delicate moves, keeping just right of the blunt arete.
 
1 Stars
Strong
Rounded
E1 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For BACK BOWDEN DOORS

    The Arches
    "Great route if your 5'7"......take a tall second just for the crack..." 12/Jun top50

    Outward Bound
    "Great route. not much in this and lost cause, hard 6a!" 20/Oct

    On the Rocks
    "Dare I say it's too straightforward for 6c; perhaps a stiff 6b? Definately worth..." 25/Sep

    Original Route
    "Surely deserves some stars? The first corner is pleasant and the jugs above are ..." 13/Sep

    On the Verge
    "E3 5b/c is more sensible for someone of average height. Only one tricky move." 12/Sep top50

    Charlotte's Dream Direct
    "The first ascent of the direct version was by Mark Savage in 2003. There were tw..." 02/Sep

    Hazelrigg Wall
    "Font 5+ highball with a good mat." 09/Aug

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