Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Downhill
5 minsThe attractive hanging slab bound to either side by a easy groove lines. The fine set of routes on the slab are all worth doing - if you are up to the challenge, unprotected padding is pretty much the order of the day.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
The Spell 13m. The broad rib left of Straight Crack is climbed with a pleasing combination of pockets and flakes. A V2 start. | 1 Stars Crimpy Rounded | E1 5c |
2 |
Straight Crack 12m. An awkward narrowing fissure shrinks from a thin chimney to a wide crack. Once the good jams arrive, things ease. | 2 Stars Graunchy | HS 4b |
3 |
Golden Stairs 12m. Start on the right and follow the trio of steps up and left - the first one is the hardest. A Direct Start up the... | VD | |
4 |
Magic Flute 12m. Start up Golden Stairs but move out right to gain the base of the slab awkwardly. Pad up its left-hand edge, heading for... | 2 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E1 5b |
5 |
Boulder Lands 12m. Smear up the slab and shallow fluting 1m right of the arete, heading right to finish. | 1 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E5 6b |
6 |
Dead on Arrival 14m. Gain the base of the slab as for Magic Flute, then pad across it diagonally rightwards by extreme smearing to join the... | 1 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E6 6a |
7 |
Savage Slab 14m. A dynamic leap gains holds then move right and access the foot of the slab with difficulty. Shuffle back left and,... | 1 Stars Technical Fluttery | E7 6c |
8 |
Peak Technique 12m. Climb the cracks in the left wall of the groove then move left to the ledge at the bottom right-hand corner of the slab.... | 3 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E6 6b |
9 |
On the Verge Top 50 12m. Start as for Peak Technique but, from the ledge, rock onto the right arete and palm a way up this - better holds soon... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E4 5c |
10 |
Woodcutter's Crack 12m. The groove to the right of the slab gives a steep pitch with both holds and runners. | 1 Stars | HVD |
11 |
Forester's Corner 14m. Starting just left of the fence, climb the diagonal ramp and crack until it is possible to move left and climb the deep... | 1 Stars | D |
