On the Verge

Adjacent Areas
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Sun from mid-morning
Downhill
5 mins
Sheltered

The attractive hanging slab bound to either side by a easy groove lines. The fine set of routes on the slab are all worth doing - if you are up to the challenge, unprotected padding is pretty much the order of the day.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Spell
13m. The broad rib left of Straight Crack is climbed with a pleasing combination of pockets and flakes. A V2 start.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
Rounded
E1 5c
2
Straight Crack
12m. An awkward narrowing fissure shrinks from a thin chimney to a wide crack. Once the good jams arrive, things ease.
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
HS 4b
3
Golden Stairs
12m. Start on the right and follow the trio of steps up and left - the first one is the hardest. A Direct Start up the...
 VD
4
Magic Flute
12m. Start up Golden Stairs but move out right to gain the base of the slab awkwardly. Pad up its left-hand edge, heading for...
 
2 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E1 5b
5
Boulder Lands
12m. Smear up the slab and shallow fluting 1m right of the arete, heading right to finish.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E5 6b
6
Dead on Arrival
14m. Gain the base of the slab as for Magic Flute, then pad across it diagonally rightwards by extreme smearing to join the...
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E6 6a
7
Savage Slab
14m. A dynamic leap gains holds then move right and access the foot of the slab with difficulty. Shuffle back left and,...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E7 6c
8
Peak Technique
12m. Climb the cracks in the left wall of the groove then move left to the ledge at the bottom right-hand corner of the slab....
 
3 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E6 6b
9
On the Verge Top 50
12m. Start as for Peak Technique but, from the ledge, rock onto the right arete and palm a way up this - better holds soon...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E4 5c
10
Woodcutter's Crack
12m. The groove to the right of the slab gives a steep pitch with both holds and runners.
 
1 Stars
HVD
11
Forester's Corner
14m. Starting just left of the fence, climb the diagonal ramp and crack until it is possible to move left and climb the deep...
 
1 Stars
D
  • Latest Comments

    For BACK BOWDEN DOORS

    The Arches
    "Great route if your 5'7"......take a tall second just for the crack..." 12/Jun top50

    Outward Bound
    "Great route. not much in this and lost cause, hard 6a!" 20/Oct

    On the Rocks
    "Dare I say it's too straightforward for 6c; perhaps a stiff 6b? Definately worth..." 25/Sep

    Original Route
    "Surely deserves some stars? The first corner is pleasant and the jugs above are ..." 13/Sep

    On the Verge
    "E3 5b/c is more sensible for someone of average height. Only one tricky move." 12/Sep top50

    Charlotte's Dream Direct
    "The first ascent of the direct version was by Mark Savage in 2003. There were tw..." 02/Sep

    Hazelrigg Wall
    "Font 5+ highball with a good mat." 09/Aug

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