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Adjacent Areas
< On the Verge  |  Roof Route >

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Sun from mid-morning
5 mins
Downhill
Sheltered

The impressive buttress that towers over the fence is covered in fine routes plus many variations which are only slightly less worthy. The problem is the routes are mostly hard; those that are not, are desperate. Guidebook page 330.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Tube Top 50
16m. One of the easier hard classics of the crag - a great climb, devious but logical and interesting throughout. Start up the...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4 5c
2
Right of Reply
24m. "Tube+"! Follow Tube to where it exits but continue the traverse until the break descends a little, thins out and then...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6b
3
Charlotte's Dream Direct
14m. The left-hand side of the smooth face. Follow a discontinuous series of flakes until they fizzle out at a good pocket....
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
E7 6b
4
On the Rocks
14m. Classy climbing, technical and committing. Climb the flake to its top then, from runners (a whole bunch plus one for...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
E7 6c
5
Duke of York
14m. An easier route at last. Once a 'solid Northumbrian HVS', now upgraded. Follow the flake to its end and access the ledge...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
6
Transcendence
14m. The broad edge of the buttress, front on with bold and technical climbing - a tour de force. Climb the groove then trend...
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E8 6c
7
Leap of Faith
14m. A hard direct start to Lost Cause with the big black hole being of material assistance and the name gives one possible...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E6 6c
8
Lost Cause
14m. A good route with hard but safe (if you don't mind a bit of flight time) climbing. Reverse the last section of Duke of...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E4 6b
9
Angle Corner
12m. The main angle is not without interest and the odd bit of shrubbery.
 VD
  • Latest Comments

    For BACK BOWDEN DOORS

    The Arches
    "Great route if your 5'7"......take a tall second just for the crack..." 12/Jun top50

    Outward Bound
    "Great route. not much in this and lost cause, hard 6a!" 20/Oct

    On the Rocks
    "Dare I say it's too straightforward for 6c; perhaps a stiff 6b? Definately worth..." 25/Sep

    Original Route
    "Surely deserves some stars? The first corner is pleasant and the jugs above are ..." 13/Sep

    On the Verge
    "E3 5b/c is more sensible for someone of average height. Only one tricky move." 12/Sep top50

    Charlotte's Dream Direct
    "The first ascent of the direct version was by Mark Savage in 2003. There were tw..." 02/Sep

    Hazelrigg Wall
    "Font 5+ highball with a good mat." 09/Aug

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