This fine wall stands proudly above the railway and was one of the first walls in the Dale to be developed mainly because it has a number of good groove and crack-lines. Guidebook page 180.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
I Had a Black Shirt The right-hand side of the arete. Tricky to flash. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7a+ |
2 |
Protest and Survive A good wall climb with reasonable gear on the crux but an extremely unhelpful flake above can give a few worrying moments.... | 1 Stars Fluttery | E4 6a |
3 |
Whistling Crack The wide crack is thoroughly traditional. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Graunchy | VS 4b |
4 |
Gander Meat A tendon-tearing exercise up the clean, white wall. Gear consists of a peg and some hard-to-place wires. Finishing leftwards at... | 1 Stars Reachy Technical Crimpy | E6 6c |
5 |
Dope Thin climbing with a desperate move above the third bolt. | 2 Stars Reachy Technical Crimpy | 7b+ |
6 |
Autonomon Climb easy rock leftwards to a wall which leads to a ledge. Finish up the vegetated groove above. Abseil off.Spirit of the... | 1 Stars | E1 5b |
7 |
Automoton Thin fingery climbing leads to a lower-off. | Crimpy | 7a |
8 |
Spirit of the Age The vague groove line left of Autonomon. | E5 6a | |
9 |
Monoton Climb the groove to gain the break. Finish up the corner above and abseil off. Originally it finished up the groove of... | VS 4b | |
10 |
Autonoman Steep and unlikely climbing up a series of ledges to a grassy finish. | E1 5b | |
11 |
Vibrator The thin crack and steep slab lead to a grassy ledge. Step right and tackle the final awkward crack. Abseil from a tree. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Pumpy | E2 5c |
12 |
Witch in Stitch Progress above the second bolt is made by a desperate static move or an ungradeable jump. | 2 Stars Reachy Technical | 7b |
13 |
Thin Lizzy A tricky lower crack leads to the break (threads). Then make a hard move to get established over the roof. There may be a bolt... 5 user comments | 2 Stars | E1 5b |
14 |
Swinging Wall A counter-diagonal to Thin Lizzy but not quite as good. Climb the crack to a thread in the break then traverse left to an... 1 user comment | VS 4c | |
15 |
A Man Called Horse Extremely technical moves up the wall. | 1 Stars Technical | 7b+ |
16 |
Dynamic The shallow groove to the right of the smooth wall is balancy and not well protected. Finish up a flake and on into the trees. | Technical Fluttery | E1 5c |
17 |
Soft Shoe Twin cracks to a ledge. Traverse right and finish up a wide crack behind a tree. | VS 4c | |
18 |
Orchrist The groove just left of the larger groove of Osculation. 2 user comments | VS 4c | |
19 |
Shapeshifter The wall between the cracks with a curving overlap. Finish as for the other routes past the tree. | HVS 5a | |
20 |
Osculation The large open groove gives a fine pitch. Take care with a dangerous loose block which may still lurk halfway up the route. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Loose | HVS 5a |
21 |
Wise Up! Sucker .... A short sport route with a good rock-over move. | Technical | 6c+ |
22 |
Your Rotten Thoughts Two hard moves on the black wall. | Technical | 7a+ |
23 |
Transit Grove From the bottom of Escort crack climb up left to gain a groove. Follow this to a ledge and climb the wide crack behind the... | VS 4c | |
24 |
Priming the Pump The thin curving crack is sustained and seldom climbed. | Pumpy | E4 6a |
25 |
Escort Crack The direct crack left of Thin Lizzy to the finish of Swinging Wall. | VS 4c | |
26 |
Oh No! It's the Wall to Wall Birthday Party The thin crack and bulge has some loose holds. | Technical Strong Loose | 7a+ |
27 |
Fresh Jive Short and hard. No lower-off. | Technical Crimpy | 7c |
28 |
Shaking Crack The diagonal crack gives the best route on this section of wall. A struggle from the very first move but well protected. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Pumpy | E2 5b |
29 |
Big Boned Backside Melon Short-lived technical interest. Lower off the last bolt. | Technical | 7b+ |
30 |
Dangleberry An old-style piece of route finding which skirts around the main roofs. Climb a thin groove to a niche below the roof. At the... 1 user comment | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
31 |
Thor's Hammer A big struggle through the roofs and onto the hanging flake above. Start up Dangleberry. Can also be started direct. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Strong Pumpy | E1 5b |
32 |
Socialism An eliminate, cutting through the two main roof challenges. Start from the embedded block and climb the blank slab to the... | 1 Stars Fluttery | E3 5c |
33 |
A Farewell to Arms The left-hand crack line to the right of the groove of Dynamic. | E3 6a | |
34 |
Colon Start up Thin Thin Groove to the break then traverse left until below a fine groove. Follow this to the top. | 1 Stars Strong | E1 5b |
35 |
Nettle Whine The right-hand crack line to the right of the groove of Dynamic. | E3 6a | |
36 |
Thin Thin Groove The right-hand side of the roofs has a thin thin hanging groove. Gain this and follow it to the top. | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
37 |
Quake A delightful set of short grooves. Awkward in the middle. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | E1 5b |
38 |
The Price of Fame Climb flakes then cross Vibration to a lower-off up right. | Technical | E4 6b |
39 |
Still Wall A shallow groove 5m left of the prominant corner of Orchrist. | VS 4b | |
40 |
Vibration Follow the scoops up left past a thread and some better gear to finish up Quake. The scene of a few big falls. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Pumpy | E1 5b |
41 |
Family Fortunes A direct above the thread on Vibration. Leaving the ramp is the crux; above that it relents, but not by too much. | Technical | 7a+ |
42 |
Pushed to the Hilti Start up Vibration but climb direct past 2 old bolts. Wires will be needed to get to the first bolt. | Technical | 6c |
43 |
Shock the Monkey The rising diagonal cracks to the top of Pushed to the Hilti. | Pumpy | E4 6a |
44 |
Yuk The arete right of Osculation has a steep start which is best approached from its right-hand side. | E4 6b | |
45 |
Gibbon Take A short filler-in squeezed into the right-hand end of the buttress. 3 bolts to a lower-off | 6c | |
46 |
Suicides Reprieve/McKenzie Frenzy A combination of two routes which cross Dangleberry. Climb 2 thin cracks to the break, stpe right and finish up a groove. | E4 6a | |
47 |
Calvi Corner The chossy, vegetated corner. | S | |
48 |
Behaviour of Fish Climb a flake left of the ivy to the break. Make desperate thin moves back up right to an old bolt belay. | E4 6b | |
49 |
Forgotten Dream The steep thin crack between the two patches of ivy to a bolt belay. | E5 6b | |
50 |
The Roaring Forties A horrible wandering line following cracks and ivy up the wall left of Quake. | E3 5c | |