Moving Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Pink Wall  |  The Lifts >

Trad and Sport
Evening sun
20 mins
Up and Down

This fine wall stands proudly above the railway and was one of the first walls in the Dale to be developed mainly because it has a number of good groove and crack-lines.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
I Had a Black Shirt
The right-hand side of the arete. Tricky to flash.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
2
Protest and Survive
A good wall climb with reasonable gear on the crux but an extremely unhelpful flake above can give a few worrying moments....
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E4 6a
3
Whistling Crack
The wide crack is thoroughly traditional.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VS 4b
4
Gander Meat
A tendon-tearing exercise up the clean, white wall. Gear consists of a peg and some hard-to-place wires. Finishing leftwards at...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Crimpy
E6 6c
5
Dope
Thin climbing with a desperate move above the third bolt.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
6
Autonomon
Climb easy rock leftwards to a wall which leads to a ledge. Finish up the vegetated groove above. Abseil off.Spirit of the...
 
1 Stars
E1 5b
7
Automoton
Thin fingery climbing leads to a lower-off.
 
Crimpy
7a
8
Spirit of the Age
The vague groove line left of Autonomon.
 E5 6a
9
Monoton
Climb the groove to gain the break. Finish up the corner above and abseil off. Originally it finished up the groove of...
 VS 4b
10
Vibrator
The thin crack and steep slab lead to a grassy ledge. Step right and tackle the final awkward crack. Abseil from a tree.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5c
11
Witch in Stitch
Progress above the second bolt is made by a desperate static move or an ungradeable jump.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
7b
12
Thin Lizzy
A tricky lower crack leads to the break (threads). Then make a hard move to get established over the roof. There may be a bolt...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
E1 5b
13
Swinging Wall
A counter-diagonal to Thin Lizzy but not quite as good. Climb the crack to a thread in the break then traverse left to an...
1 user comment
 VS 4c
14
A Man Called Horse
Extremely technical moves up the wall.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b+
15
Dynamic
The shallow groove to the right of the smooth wall is balancy and not well protected. Finish up a flake and on into the trees.
 
Technical
Fluttery
E1 5c
16
Soft Shoe
Twin cracks to a ledge. Traverse right and finish up a wide crack behind a tree.
 VS 4c
17
Orchrist
The groove just left of the larger groove of Osculation.
2 user comments
 VS 4c
18
Shapeshifter
The wall between the cracks with a curving overlap. Finish as for the other routes past the tree.
 HVS 5a
19
Osculation
The large open groove gives a fine pitch. Take care with a dangerous loose block which may still lurk halfway up the route.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Loose
HVS 5a
20
Wise Up! Sucker ....
A short sport route with a good rock-over move.
 
Technical
6c+
21
Your Rotten Thoughts
Two hard moves on the black wall.
 
Technical
7a+
22
Transit Grove
From the bottom of Escort crack climb up left to gain a groove. Follow this to a ledge and climb the wide crack behind the...
 VS 4c
23
Priming the Pump
The thin curving crack is sustained and seldom climbed.
 
Pumpy
E4 6a
24
Escort Crack
The direct crack left of Thin Lizzy to the finish of Swinging Wall.
 VS 4c
25
Oh No! It's the Wall to Wall Birthday Party
The thin crack and bulge has some loose holds.
 
Technical
Strong
Loose
7a+
26
Fresh Jive
Short and hard. No lower-off.
 
Technical
Crimpy
7c
27
Shaking Crack
The diagonal crack gives the best route on this section of wall. A struggle from the very first move but well protected.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5b
28
Big Boned Backside Melon
Short-lived technical interest. Lower off the last bolt.
 
Technical
7b+
29
Dangleberry
An old-style piece of route finding which skirts around the main roofs. Climb a thin groove to a niche below the roof. At the...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
30
Thor's Hammer
A big struggle through the roofs and onto the hanging flake above. Start up Dangleberry. Can also be started direct.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E1 5b
31
Socialism
An eliminate, cutting through the two main roof challenges. Start from the embedded block and climb the blank slab to the...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E3 5c
32
A Farewell to Arms
The left-hand crack line to the right of the groove of Dynamic.
 E3 6a
33
Colon
Start up Thin Thin Groove to the break then traverse left until below a fine groove. Follow this to the top.
 
1 Stars
Strong
E1 5b
34
Nettle Whine
The right-hand crack line to the right of the groove of Dynamic.
 E3 6a
35
Thin Thin Groove
The right-hand side of the roofs has a thin thin hanging groove. Gain this and follow it to the top.
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
36
Quake
A delightful set of short grooves. Awkward in the middle.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E1 5b
37
The Price of Fame
Climb flakes then cross Vibration to a lower-off up right.
 
Technical
E4 6b
38
Still Wall
A shallow groove 5m left of the prominant corner of Orchrist.
 VS 4b
39
Vibration
Follow the scoops up left past a thread and some better gear to finish up Quake. The scene of a few big falls.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
40
Family Fortunes
A direct above the thread on Vibration. Leaving the ramp is the crux; above that it relents, but not by too much.
 
Technical
7a+
41
Pushed to the Hilti
Start up Vibration but climb direct past 2 old bolts. Wires will be needed to get to the first bolt.
 
Technical
6c
42
Shock the Monkey
The rising diagonal cracks to the top of Pushed to the Hilti.
 
Pumpy
E4 6a
43
Yuk
The arete right of Osculation has a steep start which is best approached from its right-hand side.
 E4 6b
44
Gibbon Take
A short filler-in squeezed into the right-hand end of the buttress. 3 bolts to a lower-off
 6c
45
Suicides Reprieve/McKenzie Frenzy
A combination of two routes which cross Dangleberry. Climb 2 thin cracks to the break, stpe right and finish up a groove.
 E4 6a
46
Calvi Corner
The chossy, vegetated corner.
 S
47
Behaviour of Fish
Climb a flake left of the ivy to the break. Make desperate thin moves back up right to an old bolt belay.
 E4 6b
48
Forgotten Dream
The steep thin crack between the two patches of ivy to a bolt belay.
 E5 6b
49
The Roaring Forties
A horrible wandering line following cracks and ivy up the wall left of Quake.
 E3 5c
  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone


  • Latest Comments

    For CHEE DALE UPPER

    Sirplum
    "First pitch very polished and overgrown deserves 5b. Second pitch monster jugs b..." 10/Jul top50

    Kakaho
    "Not easy to determine the line of this based on the 2004 guide. The features are..." 18/Jul

    No Hiding Plaice
    "Great climbing all the way" 21/Aug

    Lightweight
    "The traverse at the top is the hard part and very good, hard to know what sequen..." 30/May

    Spank Me Senseless with a Wet Herring
    "A lovely little route. Little-used so bring a trowel." 11/May

    Max-a-Million
    "just jump." 03/Aug

    Unzipping the Wild Physique
    "Bizzare route! Either belay miles back on a small tree or just sit behind the wa..." 26/Jul

    The Lockless Monster
    "7c/+. Great bouldery route." 24/Jul

    Stung
    "A link starting as for Stung and finishing up Esmerelda has been done, Ouch, gra..." 08/Jul

    Black Max
    "Actually a pretty good route and makes the best warm up. Can clip bolts on other..." 26/May

    Poor Dill
    "Borderline 7c - great crux sequence over the bulge though." 25/May

    Quality Control
    "Really enjoyable route on good rock with a nice variation in the moves, from pow..." 05/May

    Sirplum
    "Well one of the best climbs I ever done pumpy but keep going and you soon be at ..." 25/Jul top50

    Max-a-Million
    "I have a 5"10 span and can just reach the good crimp below the jug! You nee..." 11/Jul

    Kiss Me Hardy
    "I cleaned the holds on this and climbed it a couple of days ago. Well worth gett..." 04/Jun

    Mad Dogs and Englishmen
    "Did Mad Dogs yesterday - a totally brilliant adventure, didn't clip or see any b..." 05/May

    Sturgeon in the Cupboard
    "Good climb. Not that polished. No way is it 7c though." 05/Oct top50

    Spazz Energy
    "Hard start for shorties like me. Quite varied but take care on the first overlap..." 13/Sep

    Waste Bin
    "Pretty good route although a bit scrappy to start. Groove is surprisingly tricky..." 10/Sep

    Aberration
    "Intense climbing but memory counts for little; the best holds have fallen off ev..." 06/Sep

    Aplomb
    "Covers some impresive ground for the lowly grade. Pitch 2 was the hardest to lea..." 02/Aug

    Aberration
    "Upper 2 pegs replaced with bolts 07/09. Lower off added too." 29/Jul

    Mad Dogs and Englishmen
    "Good effort in getting your project done mike. I climbed mad dogs yesterday and ..." 26/Jul

    Mad Dogs and Englishmen
    "The peg on this route is unsafe and needs replacing.mike p" 14/Jul

    Stung
    "Depends what you call a flake... I'd call the feature with the jug rail and the..." 09/Jul

    Stung
    "Rubbish, I have done this loads of times and never even thought of moving far ri..." 08/Jul

    The Max Works
    "Just scrapes into 7a I think. The selection of rubbish holds actually contain 1 ..." 06/Jul

    Stung
    "Avoiding final flake on the right at the top would feel very contrived. Going d..." 29/Jun

    Max to the Wall
    "Very good route with a short, bouldery crux, but failry sustained the whole way...." 22/Jun

    The Max Works
    "Quite new to this redpointing thing, but got it 3rd go. Really good line, think..." 21/Jun

    Quality Control
    "Reasonably bolted and less reliant on hidden holds than many routes around, whic..." 21/Jun

    Aberration
    "I think 7c+ for Aberration, the loss of holds referred to above makes no differe..." 17/Jun

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