Berry Head Quarry

Adjacent Areas
< White Rhino Buttress  |  None >

DWS
Sun and Shade
15 mins
Downhill
Tidal

For those of familiar with the area, and who have ever wondered just what Berry Head Quarry really looks like, take a look at the picture above, snapped from a sea kayak a kilometre or so out in Torbay. The huge, shattered, quarried back wall gives some rather gripping trad climbing, but the sea level pinnacles are what attracts the deep water soloist to the venue. The rock here is wholly natural, solid, and offers some excellent climbs, with nothing at all above that magic height of 15m. There are four distinct pinnacles in the picture. On the left is the Arch Zawn area, second is the Navigator Pinnacle. The third is nondescript, with no routes, and the last is the Labyrinth Pinnacle. Guidebook page 112.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Wavewalker
10m. The left-most line on the Gothic Face is approached via a low traverse in from the left, after an easy scramble down the...
 
1 Stars
DWS
Strong
Pumpy
7a S1
2
Breathless
14m. This brilliant line stays approximately on the mottled, scoopy features. Sustained and technical throughout, and on great...
 
2 Stars
DWS
Technical
Pumpy
7a S1
3
Gothic
14m. The same access as the above route. Superb climbing, giving quality, steep slab climbing up the black wall left of the...
 
2 Stars
DWS
Technical
Pumpy
6c+ S1
4
Man in Black
13m. The big black corner is solid but somewhat intimidating. This line isn't likely to see much in the way of ascents, and has...
 
1 Stars
DWS
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
6b+ S2
5
And All Because..
14m. The shapely arete offers amazing climbing throughout - you'll want a high tide on your side. The line is enticing, yet...
 
2 Stars
DWS
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
6a+ S2
6
The Arch Zawn Traverse
20m. A lovely dash of crab-wise activity covers the low ground from the start of And All BecauseÉ around to the ledge facing...
 
1 Stars
DWS
Pumpy
6a+ S1
7
Crunchie
9m. This small but good appetiser is found on the left side of the buttress. Traverse in from the fishermens' ledges, to gain...
 
1 Stars
DWS
4a S1
8
Loftgroover
11m. A great piece of climbing; steady throughout. Probably the Quarry's best introduction to DWS. From the same access ledges...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
DWS
Technical
5a S0
9
Rhythm of the Night
13m. A dark undertaking, venturing up the slick black rock in the rear of the cave. Take a mid-tide, to retain some crucial...
 
2 Stars
DWS
Technical
Pumpy
7a S0
10
Deep House
12m. The back corner. From the small starting ledges, move leftwards to gain the corner, and bridge your way up to a roof. Take...
 
1 Stars
DWS
Strong
Pumpy
6a+ S1
11
Soul to Soul
12m. A slip from the hardest moves exiting the corner would have serious consequences on this one. The climbing, however, is...
 
1 Stars
DWS
Pumpy
Fluttery
5a S3
12
Disco Babes from Outer Space
12m. A line that could really do with straightening, as it uses much of Soul to Soul, and finishes pretty much on MC Navigator....
 
DWS
Reachy
7a+ S2
13
M.C. Navigator
11m. The most popular hard route on the buttress. The line tackles the steep arete that forms the right edge of the sea cave....
 
2 Stars
DWS
Technical
Strong
7a+ S1
14
Austin's Powers
9m. Friendly and fun. Expect good water at pretty much any tide. From the descent steps, swing around the left arete with...
 
1 Stars
DWS
Technical
6a+ S0
15
Brown Paper
10m. The face right of Austin's Powers is an eliminate.
 
DWS
Technical
6a+ S0
16
Barefoot and the Hendersons
11m. The groove is pleasant, but unfortunately you'll need to do an English 5c move to gain the route. An alternative is to...
 
1 Stars
DWS
4a S1
17
Labyrinth Pinnacle Traverse
40m. The traverse from the right, with a finish up Barefoot and the Hendersons gives the 4+ grade. The pure low traverse,...
 
1 Stars
DWS
4c
18
Pigeon Street
9m. From the steady approach traverse, climb up the streaked rock, past two holes, to finish slightly leftwards. Keep an eye on...
 
1 Stars
DWS
Strong
Pumpy
6a+ S2
19
Labyrinth Variation Start
5m. This enticing, low tide boulder problem is an alternative start to Labyrinth, entering the cave by way of a lower hole. The...
 
1 Stars
DWS
Strong
6b+ S0
20
The Dulux Start
4m. This is an alternative start to Shady Lane.
 
DWS
Strong
6b+ S1
21
Shady Lane
10m. Excellent climbing, getting involved with the leaning, open groove. A sequential start leads to a jug, from where the...
 
2 Stars
DWS
Strong
Pumpy
6b+ S1
22
T-Minus Ten
10m. The prominent arete gives a spicy pitch. Launch up onto the dark arete, and stretch for a hold above. Continue up and...
 
1 Stars
DWS
Reachy
Strong
6c+ S1
23
Hysoscella Sideways
You'll need a high tide to get the best out of this route, and it's slightly marred by a number of possible exit points. ...
 
1 Stars
DWS
Strong
7a S2
  • Latest Comments

    For BERRY HEAD DWS

    Magical Mystery Tour
    "Brilliant!" 08/Sep top50

    Magical Mystery Tour
    "Possibly the most fun route in the world. Did it for the first time last Saturda..." 17/Aug top50

    Cod Tympani
    "great climbing with a real out there feel; you're maybe 30ft above the sea, 10ft..." 24/Sep

    Loftgroover
    "Pretty good although I thought the shallow scoop in the face to the left (not su..." 12/Aug

    Barrel Traverse
    "On-sighted 2005, by mistake! I thought this was Rainbow bridge! Awesome though!" 10/Jul

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