Adjacent Areas
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DWS
Lots of sun!
Downhill
15 minsTidal
Windy
The superb and well-positioned London Bridge Area has an essential place in Devon deep water soloing. The striking, compact bridge itself is a geological delight - a hanging archway surrounded by water, and with grades running across the spectrum. Lovers of traverses need look no further than the region's three crab-esque offerings, including the striking and colourful Watchtower Traverse, whilst the wanderers amongst you might feel obliged to go and find the excellent Aqua Marina Wall. Guidebook page 118.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Five Star Traverse Part I 200m. Start in Beacon Cove close to the harbour and work eastwards along easy slabs at first, before a couple of steep inlets... | 1 Stars DWS | 6a S2 |
2 |
Five Star Traverse Part II 200m. The recommended DWS of Part II begins at Peaked Tor Cove, and monkeys along to Dyers Quarry, with a further little bouncy... | 1 Stars DWS | 5+ S1 |
3 |
Peaked Tor Cove Traverse 15m. Good, hard face climbing; take a high tide, and please note - any knee-high paddling dramatically reduces the grade! Climb... | 1 Stars DWS Crimpy | 7a+ S1 |
4 |
Luv-Groove-Dance-Party 16m. A line requiring a little savvy. Good moves above excellent water. Traverse leftwards across the bottom of the groove of... | 1 Stars DWS Strong Pumpy | 7a+ S1 |
5 |
Atheist 15m. Superb and pumpy climbing up the soaring groove. The difficulties begin down at the HWM and are beautifully unrelenting. A... | 2 Stars DWS Pumpy Fluttery | 6b+ S2 |
6 |
Pumping Dancefloor Energy 12m. The fingery and very balancy arete to the right of Atheist offers wicked and well-positioned climbing. Traverse in from... | 2 Stars DWS Pumpy Crimpy | 7a+ S0 |
7 |
Freddy the Frog Hits Torquay 9m. The first line 'off' the traverse in, and a brilliant intro to the great game of DWS, with easy access, a mid-height crux... | 2 Stars DWS | 6a+ S0 |
8 |
Long Dong Village 18m. The first line is the ubiquitous traverse, and it's a damn good 'un! Take a reasonable tide with that slight reef in mind,... | 2 Stars DWS Strong Pumpy | 7b S0 |
9 |
Don't Fear the Reef 11m. A hard, fingery line, that requires the cushion of a decent tide. Check the depth carefully. Start as for Jehovah Kill.... | 1 Stars DWS Strong Pumpy Crimpy | 7a+ S2 |
10 |
Jehovah Kill 15m. This brilliant and persuasive line was once a sport route, though now it is firmly on the DWS agenda! Traverse rightwards... 1 user comment | 2 Stars DWS Reachy Strong Pumpy | 7b S1 |
11 |
Arch Temptress 16m. A classic and fulfilling exercise; nowhere desperate, but it works your body all the way. Start on the big fin on the west... | 2 Stars DWS Strong Pumpy | 6a+ S2 |
12 |
French Kiss 13m. A good recent addition, with some engrossing moves down low. Access as for Arch Temptress, but then drop down into the... | 1 Stars DWS Technical Pumpy | 6c S1 |
13 |
Chicken Head 13m. A classic thrill, and very technical. From the base of Dance on Dinkies, do two moves and bridge left onto the face. Climb... | 2 Stars DWS Technical Pumpy Fluttery | 7a+ S2 |
14 |
Dance on Dinkies 13m. The slim white groove is technical and bold. Enter the groove by some thin moves, and climb in the same fashion to a... | 2 Stars DWS Technical Pumpy Fluttery | 6c+ S2 |
15 |
Duckless in Torbay 13m. The left-hand of the two grooves (the right-hand one NOT being a DWS) gives excellent climbing. Reach it via the traverse... | 1 Stars DWS | 3+ S2 |
16 |
Last Duck to Bombay 9m. Fine, intricate climbing on small pockets and edges, up the wall just right of the square gully. Climb the wall, moving... | 1 Stars DWS Technical Pumpy | 6a+ S2 |
17 |
Crispy Duck, No Noodles 8m. The remainder of the wall is very steady indeed; this one's a good pocket romp! Traverse in from the seaward ridge and... | 1 Stars DWS | 4 S1 |
18 |
Something Ducky 8m. Similar to the last route, tracing a line a little to the right. Climb up through a steeper bit to easier ground, finish... | 1 Stars DWS | 4 S1 |
19 |
Duck L'Orange 8m. The right-hand edge of the Duck Face, on excellent rock. Climb up the steep slab to a crack, and continue to the top. | DWS | 3+ S2 |
20 |
The Watchtower Traverse (First third only, as far as Thunder Hole). Even though the Watchtower Traverse in its entirety weighs in at 225m and 6c+, I've... | 2 Stars DWS Pumpy | 5 S1 |
21 |
The Watchtower Traverse (Thunder Hole to Telegraph Hole). 130m. But, for those who choose to seek the fuller experiencesÉ the extension is added here... | DWS | 6c+ S1 |
22 |
Troy Tempest 12m. The wall on the left of the orange runnel features good hard climbing. Foot-traverse the lip of the shallow overhang... | 2 Stars DWS Pumpy Crimpy | 6c+ S0 |
23 |
Barn Doors 12m. The traverse of the face is fun, and gives a method of reaching your start (albeit not an easy one). Start as for Troy... | 1 Stars DWS Strong Pumpy | 6c+ S0 |
24 |
Stingray 12m. This terrific eliminate line ventures up the beautiful orange runnel, gaining it from the right. Step off the lower reef... | 2 Stars DWS Strong Crimpy | 7a S0 |
25 |
Aqua Marina 12m. Brilliant! The best route on the wall, and at a steady grade too. Step off the left-hand end of the lower reef, and follow... | 3 Stars DWS Strong Pumpy | 6a+ S1 |
26 |
Jam-Master 6m. Short and hard; take your jamming technique along. Climb the excellent fin-and-crack feature above the small ledge. | 1 Stars DWS Strong | 6a+ S1 |
27 |
Devolution 6m. Hard and safe! From the same start, climb diagonally right up the bulging grey face. | DWS Strong | 6c S0 |
28 |
Plimsoll Line Traverse 70m. The picture above shows a blunt pinnacle rising from the platform just below Meadfoot Quarry, which itself is found a... | 2 Stars DWS Pumpy | 4 S2 |