London Bridge Area

Adjacent Areas
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DWS
Lots of sun!
Downhill
15 mins
Tidal

The superb and well-positioned London Bridge Area has an essential place in Devon deep water soloing. The striking, compact bridge itself is a geological delight - a hanging archway surrounded by water, and with grades running across the spectrum. Lovers of traverses need look no further than the region's three crab-esque offerings, including the striking and colourful Watchtower Traverse, whilst the wanderers amongst you might feel obliged to go and find the excellent Aqua Marina Wall. Guidebook page 118.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Five Star Traverse Part I
200m. Start in Beacon Cove close to the harbour and work eastwards along easy slabs at first, before a couple of steep inlets...
 
1 Stars
DWS
6a S2
2
Five Star Traverse Part II
200m. The recommended DWS of Part II begins at Peaked Tor Cove, and monkeys along to Dyers Quarry, with a further little bouncy...
 
1 Stars
DWS
5+ S1
3
Peaked Tor Cove Traverse
15m. Good, hard face climbing; take a high tide, and please note - any knee-high paddling dramatically reduces the grade! Climb...
 
1 Stars
DWS
Crimpy
7a+ S1
4
Luv-Groove-Dance-Party
16m. A line requiring a little savvy. Good moves above excellent water. Traverse leftwards across the bottom of the groove of...
 
1 Stars
DWS
Strong
Pumpy
7a+ S1
5
Atheist
15m. Superb and pumpy climbing up the soaring groove. The difficulties begin down at the HWM and are beautifully unrelenting. A...
 
2 Stars
DWS
Pumpy
Fluttery
6b+ S2
6
Pumping Dancefloor Energy
12m. The fingery and very balancy arete to the right of Atheist offers wicked and well-positioned climbing. Traverse in from...
 
2 Stars
DWS
Pumpy
Crimpy
7a+ S0
7
Freddy the Frog Hits Torquay
9m. The first line 'off' the traverse in, and a brilliant intro to the great game of DWS, with easy access, a mid-height crux...
 
2 Stars
DWS
6a+ S0
8
Long Dong Village
18m. The first line is the ubiquitous traverse, and it's a damn good 'un! Take a reasonable tide with that slight reef in mind,...
 
2 Stars
DWS
Strong
Pumpy
7b S0
9
Don't Fear the Reef
11m. A hard, fingery line, that requires the cushion of a decent tide. Check the depth carefully. Start as for Jehovah Kill....
 
1 Stars
DWS
Strong
Pumpy
Crimpy
7a+ S2
10
Jehovah Kill
15m. This brilliant and persuasive line was once a sport route, though now it is firmly on the DWS agenda! Traverse rightwards...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
DWS
Reachy
Strong
Pumpy
7b S1
11
Arch Temptress
16m. A classic and fulfilling exercise; nowhere desperate, but it works your body all the way. Start on the big fin on the west...
 
2 Stars
DWS
Strong
Pumpy
6a+ S2
12
French Kiss
13m. A good recent addition, with some engrossing moves down low. Access as for Arch Temptress, but then drop down into the...
 
1 Stars
DWS
Technical
Pumpy
6c S1
13
Chicken Head
13m. A classic thrill, and very technical. From the base of Dance on Dinkies, do two moves and bridge left onto the face. Climb...
 
2 Stars
DWS
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
7a+ S2
14
Dance on Dinkies
13m. The slim white groove is technical and bold. Enter the groove by some thin moves, and climb in the same fashion to a...
 
2 Stars
DWS
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
6c+ S2
15
Duckless in Torbay
13m. The left-hand of the two grooves (the right-hand one NOT being a DWS) gives excellent climbing. Reach it via the traverse...
 
1 Stars
DWS
3+ S2
16
Last Duck to Bombay
9m. Fine, intricate climbing on small pockets and edges, up the wall just right of the square gully. Climb the wall, moving...
 
1 Stars
DWS
Technical
Pumpy
6a+ S2
17
Crispy Duck, No Noodles
8m. The remainder of the wall is very steady indeed; this one's a good pocket romp! Traverse in from the seaward ridge and...
 
1 Stars
DWS
4 S1
18
Something Ducky
8m. Similar to the last route, tracing a line a little to the right. Climb up through a steeper bit to easier ground, finish...
 
1 Stars
DWS
4 S1
19
Duck L'Orange
8m. The right-hand edge of the Duck Face, on excellent rock. Climb up the steep slab to a crack, and continue to the top.
 
DWS
3+ S2
20
The Watchtower Traverse
(First third only, as far as Thunder Hole). Even though the Watchtower Traverse in its entirety weighs in at 225m and 6c+, I've...
 
2 Stars
DWS
Pumpy
5 S1
21
The Watchtower Traverse
(Thunder Hole to Telegraph Hole). 130m. But, for those who choose to seek the fuller experiencesÉ the extension is added here...
 
DWS
6c+ S1
22
Troy Tempest
12m. The wall on the left of the orange runnel features good hard climbing. Foot-traverse the lip of the shallow overhang...
 
2 Stars
DWS
Pumpy
Crimpy
6c+ S0
23
Barn Doors
12m. The traverse of the face is fun, and gives a method of reaching your start (albeit not an easy one). Start as for Troy...
 
1 Stars
DWS
Strong
Pumpy
6c+ S0
24
Stingray
12m. This terrific eliminate line ventures up the beautiful orange runnel, gaining it from the right. Step off the lower reef...
 
2 Stars
DWS
Strong
Crimpy
7a S0
25
Aqua Marina
12m. Brilliant! The best route on the wall, and at a steady grade too. Step off the left-hand end of the lower reef, and follow...
 
3 Stars
DWS
Strong
Pumpy
6a+ S1
26
Jam-Master
6m. Short and hard; take your jamming technique along. Climb the excellent fin-and-crack feature above the small ledge.
 
1 Stars
DWS
Strong
6a+ S1
27
Devolution
6m. Hard and safe! From the same start, climb diagonally right up the bulging grey face.
 
DWS
Strong
6c S0
28
Plimsoll Line Traverse
70m. The picture above shows a blunt pinnacle rising from the platform just below Meadfoot Quarry, which itself is found a...
 
2 Stars
DWS
Pumpy
4 S2