The Scoops

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun from mid-morning
5 mins
Level

The far left-hand end of Bowden Doors sees less traffic than most of the rest of the cliff, though it is popular as a bouldering venue. Some of the more significant and independent problems are described but many more exist, and the initial moves of most of the routes also often give quality problems though repeated use is damaging some.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Evening Wall
7m. The groove bounding the right-hand side of the slab.
 S 4b
2
Scoop 3
7m. Climb the right-trending flake and the short wall above.
 
Rounded
E1 5b
3
Scoop 2
8m. Follow the pale flakes then finish direct, or just to the right.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
E1 5b
4
Toffs
Gain holds under the bulge direct (reachy) or from the left (fingery). Jump off or continue by undercuts and a flake - E3.
 
Technical
Crimpy
V5 6C
5
Working Class
Undercut and stretch to the break. A sit-start is V12.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Strong
Crimpy
V10 7C+
6
Poverty
Use tiny undercuts and pockets to eventually match on a flake. Jump off. The full route to the top is worth E5. Variations...
 
1 Stars
Technical
V8 7B+
7
His Eminence
8m. A direct line up the dark wall just to the left of the groove of Scoop 1. The start is a hard V6 and the finish is just...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E4 6a
8
Scoop 1
8m. The first set of flakes left of the deep corner give a good and pumpy pitch at the grade.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
9
The Judge
10m. Climb the right-hand edge of the left-hand black streak to the top break then move out left for a finish. Low in the...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E4 6a
10
The Trial Top 50
10m. The centre of the wall gives a classic pitch, sustained climbing on generally good holds leads to the highest break, then...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E3 6a
11
The Jury
10m. The right-hand side of the wall is also worth the effort. Start up the flake and climb to a decent hold below the bulges....
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E3 5c
12
Bloody Crack
9m. The wide leaning crack in the angle is well named for many.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VS 5a
13
Bloody Nose
9m. Flakes in the right-hand side of the arete to the right of the corner show the way.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Rounded
HS 5a
  • Latest Comments

    For BOWDEN DOORS

    Yellow Peril
    "Not a route to fall off.....ankle smasher...at best." 12/Jun

    Tiger's Wall
    "VS in all guides I've seen. Is about the same as lorraine in difficulty" 22/Nov top50

    Russet Groove
    "Excellent diff. My first ever lead and still an exellent route!" 10/Apr top50

    Klondyke Wall
    "You have to go a fair way before getting any gear, after which its all over. Ni..." 16/Nov top50

    Jock Strap
    "I'm 8ft 2 and thought it was V1" 20/Oct

    Scorpion
    "not one move on this climb is more than 4b. the top crux is protected by wires, ..." 19/Oct

    Lorraine
    "I'm a thug, and it was a piece of piss to solo. It's still clearly and objective..." 26/Jul top50

    Lorraine
    "HVS. End of debate you thugs....................." 21/Aug top50

    Tiger's Wall
    "It is HVS but it isn't Northumberland HVS! Sacrelidge!" 29/Mar top50

    Jock Strap
    "No harder than the original" 06/Mar

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