Adjacent Areas
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Sun from mid-morning
Level
5 minsWindy
The far left-hand end of Bowden Doors sees less traffic than most of the rest of the cliff, though it is popular as a bouldering venue. Some of the more significant and independent problems are described but many more exist, and the initial moves of most of the routes also often give quality problems though repeated use is damaging some. Guidebook page 314.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Evening Wall 7m. The groove bounding the right-hand side of the slab. | S 4b | |
2 |
Scoop 3 7m. Climb the right-trending flake and the short wall above. | Rounded | E1 5b |
3 |
Scoop 2 8m. Follow the pale flakes then finish direct, or just to the right. | 1 Stars Rounded | E1 5b |
4 |
Toffs Gain holds under the bulge direct (reachy) or from the left (fingery). Jump off or continue by undercuts and a flake - E3. | Technical Crimpy | V5 6b |
5 |
Working Class Undercut and stretch to the break. A sit-start is V12. | 1 Stars Reachy Strong Crimpy | V10 |
6 |
Poverty Use tiny undercuts and pockets to eventually match on a flake. Jump off. The full route to the top is worth E5. Variations... | 1 Stars Technical | V8 |
7 |
His Eminence 8m. A direct line up the dark wall just to the left of the groove of Scoop 1. The start is a hard V6 and the finish is just... | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | E4 6a |
8 |
Scoop 1 8m. The first set of flakes left of the deep corner give a good and pumpy pitch at the grade. | 1 Stars Pumpy | E1 5b |
9 |
The Judge 10m. Climb the right-hand edge of the left-hand black streak to the top break then move out left for a finish. Low in the... | 2 Stars Pumpy | E4 6a |
10 |
The Trial Top 50 10m. The centre of the wall gives a classic pitch, sustained climbing on generally good holds leads to the highest break, then... | 3 Stars Pumpy | E3 6a |
11 |
The Jury 10m. The right-hand side of the wall is also worth the effort. Start up the flake and climb to a decent hold below the bulges.... | 1 Stars Pumpy | E3 5c |
12 |
Bloody Crack 9m. The wide leaning crack in the angle is well named for many. | 1 Stars Graunchy | VS 5a |
13 |
Bloody Nose 9m. Flakes in the right-hand side of the arete to the right of the corner show the way. | 1 Stars Technical Rounded | HS 5a |
