The Sidings

Adjacent Areas
< Blackwell Halt  |  The Embankment >

Sport
Sun from mid-morning
20 mins
Downhill
Sheltered

Although not one of Cheedale's premier venues, this is a compact buttress with short and technical routes on good rock. It gets plenty of sun, a consideration in the winter. The mid-grade routes are worth seeking out since there aren't many on the pages which are coming up. The harder routes are typical vertical limestone horrors which you either love or avoid like the plague.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Spank Me Senseless with a Wet Herring
The left-hand wall of Humiliation Buttress.
1 user comment
 VD
2
Galswegian Kiss
The left-hand line.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c+
3
Strawberry Kiss
The right-hand line.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
7b
4
Kick the Bucket
The wall left of the central groove, containing a tree. Three chopped bolts don't protect it.
 E2 5b
5
Up the Creek
The loose wall has little to recommend it.
 
Fluttery
Loose
E5 6a
6
Humiliation
The bolt line on the left-hand side of the buttress has a fingery crux past the third bolt (of four).
1 user comment
 
Crimpy
7a
7
Hupsters
The left-hand line of 2 bolts has some hard moves. Holds going AWOL hasn't helped. Finish at the lower-off on the right.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
8
Get Down and Bark, Bitch
An unpleasant name and and unpleasant route. The bolts to the right of the groove up a blunt rib.
 6b
9
Fizzy
The right-hand two bolts to the same lower-off. Surprisingly sustained for such a short route.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
10
Sleepers
The left-hand side of the pillar. The curving flake on the left gives an alternative start.
 HVS 5a
11
Lust in the Dust
The short thin crack on the left-hand side of the pillar. A long reach is required to leave the crack.
 
Reachy
E1 5b
12
Platonic Desire
The centre of the pillar past a faded thread. At the top break, head left to the tree.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1 5c
13
Spring is Here
The groove on the right-hand side of the buttress leads to a small overlap. Finish up the crack and overlaps above, heading...
 HVS 5a
14
I Drink Therefore I Am
A micro-classic with some fierce fingery moves. Climb up to clip an inverted peg on the right. Climb back to the ground. Now...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4 6b
15
The Dukes of Hazard
Fine precarious climbing up the central groove-line with a desperate last move. Slinking off right before the crux is E4 6b.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E5 6c
16
County Time
A precarious wall climb with some good moves. Hidden small wires protect.
 
Crimpy
Fluttery
E3 5c
17
Firefly
A grey wall 5m left of the flake of Sleepers.
 HVS 4c
18
A Touch Too Much
A poor non-line up the arete. It is easier if you use holds on Puffing Billy.
 
Fluttery
Loose
E1 5b
19
Puffing Billy
The corner crack direct to the yew tree - pleasant.
 
2 Stars
VS 4b
20
A Sign of the Times
Start up Sprint Start but climb the grassy wall to the left.
 VS 4c
21
Sprint Start
The thin rightwards-leaning flake is hard to get gear behind. Above this, climb the wall on hidden holds.
 
1 Stars
E1 5a
22
Lethal Dose
The thin cracks (small wires) lead to a reachy crux move. A notorious stopper route.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E3 6b
23
Fame But No Fortune
Use the dominating tree and the thread for protection. To avoid the painful experience of hitting the tree, don't fall off.
 E2 5c
24
Fireman's Frolic
The tree-choked crack - it is climbing but not as we know it. Escape off right with care.
 D
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  • Latest Comments

    For CHEE DALE UPPER

    Sirplum
    "First pitch very polished and overgrown deserves 5b. Second pitch monster jugs b..." 10/Jul top50

    Kakaho
    "Not easy to determine the line of this based on the 2004 guide. The features are..." 18/Jul

    No Hiding Plaice
    "Great climbing all the way" 21/Aug

    Lightweight
    "The traverse at the top is the hard part and very good, hard to know what sequen..." 30/May

    Spank Me Senseless with a Wet Herring
    "A lovely little route. Little-used so bring a trowel." 11/May

    Max-a-Million
    "just jump." 03/Aug

    Unzipping the Wild Physique
    "Bizzare route! Either belay miles back on a small tree or just sit behind the wa..." 26/Jul

    The Lockless Monster
    "7c/+. Great bouldery route." 24/Jul

    Stung
    "A link starting as for Stung and finishing up Esmerelda has been done, Ouch, gra..." 08/Jul

    Black Max
    "Actually a pretty good route and makes the best warm up. Can clip bolts on other..." 26/May

    Poor Dill
    "Borderline 7c - great crux sequence over the bulge though." 25/May

    Quality Control
    "Really enjoyable route on good rock with a nice variation in the moves, from pow..." 05/May

    Sirplum
    "Well one of the best climbs I ever done pumpy but keep going and you soon be at ..." 25/Jul top50

    Max-a-Million
    "I have a 5"10 span and can just reach the good crimp below the jug! You nee..." 11/Jul

    Kiss Me Hardy
    "I cleaned the holds on this and climbed it a couple of days ago. Well worth gett..." 04/Jun

    Mad Dogs and Englishmen
    "Did Mad Dogs yesterday - a totally brilliant adventure, didn't clip or see any b..." 05/May

    Sturgeon in the Cupboard
    "Good climb. Not that polished. No way is it 7c though." 05/Oct top50

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