The Sidings

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Early morning sun
20 mins
Downhill
Sheltered

Although not one of Cheedale's premier venues, this is a compact buttress with short and technical routes on good rock. It gets plenty of sun, a consideration in the winter. The mid-grade routes are worth seeking out since there aren't many on the pages which are coming up. The harder routes are typical vertical limestone horrors which you either love or avoid like the plague.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Spank Me Senseless with a Wet Herring
The left-hand wall of Humiliation Buttress.
1 user comment
 VD
2
Galswegian Kiss
The left-hand line.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c+
3
Strawberry Kiss
The right-hand line.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
7b
4
Kick the Bucket
The wall left of the central groove, containing a tree. Three chopped bolts don't protect it.
 E2 5b
5
Up the Creek
The loose wall has little to recommend it.
 
Loose
E5
6
Humiliation
The bolt line on the left-hand side of the buttress has a fingery crux past the third bolt (of four).
1 user comment
 
Crimpy
7a
7
Hupsters
The left-hand line of 2 bolts has some hard moves. Holds going AWOL hasn't helped. Finish at the lower-off on the right.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
8
Get Down and Bark, Bitch
An unpleasant name and and unpleasant route. The bolts to the right of the groove up a blunt rib.
 6b
9
Fizzy
The right-hand two bolts to the same lower-off. Surprisingly sustained for such a short route.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
10
Sleepers
The left-hand side of the pillar. The curving flake on the left gives an alternative start.
 HVS
11
Lust in the Dust
The short thin crack on the left-hand side of the pillar. A long reach is required to leave the crack.
 E1
12
Platonic Desire
The centre of the pillar past a faded thread. At the top break, head left to the tree.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1
13
Spring is Here
The groove on the right-hand side of the buttress leads to a small overlap. Finish up the crack and overlaps above, heading...
 HVS
14
I Drink Therefore I Am
A micro-classic with some fierce fingery moves. Climb up to clip an inverted peg on the right. Climb back to the ground. Now...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4
15
The Dukes of Hazard
Fine precarious climbing up the central groove-line with a desperate last move. Slinking off right before the crux is E4 6b.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5
16
County Time
A precarious wall climb with some good moves. Hidden small wires protect.
 E3
17
Firefly
A grey wall 5m left of the flake of Sleepers.
 HVS 4c
18
A Touch Too Much
A poor non-line up the arete. It is easier if you use holds on Puffing Billy.
 
Loose
E1
19
Puffing Billy
The corner crack direct to the yew tree - pleasant.
 
2 Stars
VS
20
A Sign of the Times
Start up Sprint Start but climb the grassy wall to the left.
 VS
21
Sprint Start
The thin rightwards-leaning flake is hard to get gear behind. Above this, climb the wall on hidden holds.
 
1 Stars
E1
22
Lethal Dose
The thin cracks (small wires) lead to a reachy crux move. A notorious stopper route.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3
23
Fame But No Fortune
Use the dominating tree and the thread for protection. To avoid the painful experience of hitting the tree, don't fall off.
 E2
24
Fireman's Frolic
The tree-choked crack - it is climbing but not as we know it. Escape off right with care.
1 user comment
 D