Adjacent Areas
< Blackwell Halt | The Embankment >
Sport
Sun from mid-morning
Downhill
20 minsAlthough not one of Cheedale's premier venues, this is a compact buttress with short and technical routes on good rock. It gets plenty of sun, a consideration in the winter. The mid-grade routes are worth seeking out since there aren't many on the pages which are coming up. The harder routes are typical vertical limestone horrors which you either love or avoid like the plague. Guidebook page 152.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Spank Me Senseless with a Wet Herring The left-hand wall of Humiliation Buttress. 1 user comment | VD | |
2 |
Galswegian Kiss The left-hand line. | 1 Stars Technical | 7c+ |
3 |
Strawberry Kiss The right-hand line. | 1 Stars Technical Strong | 7b |
4 |
Kick the Bucket The wall left of the central groove, containing a tree. Three chopped bolts don't protect it. | E2 5b | |
5 |
Up the Creek The loose wall has little to recommend it. | Fluttery Loose | E5 6a |
6 |
Humiliation The bolt line on the left-hand side of the buttress has a fingery crux past the third bolt (of four). 1 user comment | Crimpy | 7a |
7 |
Hupsters The left-hand line of 2 bolts has some hard moves. Holds going AWOL hasn't helped. Finish at the lower-off on the right. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical | 7a+ |
8 |
Get Down and Bark, Bitch An unpleasant name and and unpleasant route. The bolts to the right of the groove up a blunt rib. | 6b | |
9 |
Fizzy The right-hand two bolts to the same lower-off. Surprisingly sustained for such a short route. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | 6c+ |
10 |
Sleepers The left-hand side of the pillar. The curving flake on the left gives an alternative start. | HVS 5a | |
11 |
Lust in the Dust The short thin crack on the left-hand side of the pillar. A long reach is required to leave the crack. | Reachy | E1 5b |
12 |
Platonic Desire The centre of the pillar past a faded thread. At the top break, head left to the tree. | 1 Stars Technical | E1 5c |
13 |
Spring is Here The groove on the right-hand side of the buttress leads to a small overlap. Finish up the crack and overlaps above, heading... | HVS 5a | |
14 |
I Drink Therefore I Am A micro-classic with some fierce fingery moves. Climb up to clip an inverted peg on the right. Climb back to the ground. Now... | 1 Stars Technical | E4 6b |
15 |
The Dukes of Hazard Fine precarious climbing up the central groove-line with a desperate last move. Slinking off right before the crux is E4 6b. | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | E5 6c |
16 |
County Time A precarious wall climb with some good moves. Hidden small wires protect. | Crimpy Fluttery | E3 5c |
17 |
Firefly A grey wall 5m left of the flake of Sleepers. | HVS 4c | |
18 |
A Touch Too Much A poor non-line up the arete. It is easier if you use holds on Puffing Billy. | Fluttery Loose | E1 5b |
19 |
Puffing Billy The corner crack direct to the yew tree - pleasant. | 2 Stars | VS 4b |
20 |
A Sign of the Times Start up Sprint Start but climb the grassy wall to the left. | VS 4c | |
21 |
Sprint Start The thin rightwards-leaning flake is hard to get gear behind. Above this, climb the wall on hidden holds. | 1 Stars | E1 5a |
22 |
Lethal Dose The thin cracks (small wires) lead to a reachy crux move. A notorious stopper route. | 1 Stars Reachy Technical | E3 6b |
23 |
Fame But No Fortune Use the dominating tree and the thread for protection. To avoid the painful experience of hitting the tree, don't fall off. | E2 5c | |
24 |
Fireman's Frolic The tree-choked crack - it is climbing but not as we know it. Escape off right with care. | D | |
