Barbarian

Adjacent Areas
< The Wave  |  Banana Wall and Tiger Wall >

Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level
5 mins

A couple of lesser buttresses towards the left-hand end of the cliff, though with a smattering of worthwhile routes and a spot of pumpy bouldering that sees a fair bit of action. Barbarian is the one to do here - if you are up to it. Guidebook page 316.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Staggered
Up the blunt rib to join Barbarian. Descend it or jump onto your mat. The sit-down start is V10.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
V8
2
Barbarian Top 50
10m. The superb curving flake (a Manta look-a-like) leads leftwards with hard moves on sketchy footholds to pass the gap in the...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6b
3
Giant's Ear
10m. The hanging flake is approached from the left, struggle up the wide awkward crack behind it.
 
Technical
Graunchy
VS 5a
4
Bull's Lug
8m. The short hanging wall is taxing.
 
Crimpy
E2 6a
5
Robber's Rib
7m. The crack in the south-facing rib to a leftward exit.
 
Technical
VS 5b
6
Arrow Crack
10m. The widening crack in the left-hand end of the next wall.
 VD
7
Billy Liar
8m. The rounded arete right of Arrow Crack on its right side.
 
Rounded
E2 5c
8
Crunchie
10m. Head up the centre of the wall.
 E2 5c
9
Temptation
The right-hand side of the wall has a stopper move to reach (or not) the break. Jump off.
 
1 Stars
Technical
V6 6c
10
Blind Wall
10m. Climb the right-slanting flake to its end then pull out left and climb the wall on good flake holds.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
S 4a
11
Hanging Crack
10m. Start up Blind Wall, but at the bulges head up and rightwards to enter the wide and wrigglesome crack.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
E1 5b
12
Boomer
10m. Climb the black flake to the roof then pass this leftwards before trending back right to finish.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For BOWDEN DOORS

    Yellow Peril
    "Not a route to fall off.....ankle smasher...at best." 12/Jun

    Tiger's Wall
    "VS in all guides I've seen. Is about the same as lorraine in difficulty" 22/Nov top50

    Russet Groove
    "Excellent diff. My first ever lead and still an exellent route!" 10/Apr top50

    Klondyke Wall
    "You have to go a fair way before getting any gear, after which its all over. Ni..." 16/Nov top50

    Jock Strap
    "I'm 8ft 2 and thought it was V1" 20/Oct

    Scorpion
    "not one move on this climb is more than 4b. the top crux is protected by wires, ..." 19/Oct

    Lorraine
    "I'm a thug, and it was a piece of piss to solo. It's still clearly and objective..." 26/Jul top50

    Lorraine
    "HVS. End of debate you thugs....................." 21/Aug top50

    Tiger's Wall
    "It is HVS but it isn't Northumberland HVS! Sacrelidge!" 29/Mar top50

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