Lorraine and Castle Crack

Trad
Sun from mid-morning
5 mins
Level

A couple of fine buttresses with a selection of worthwhile climbs and a couple of real Bowden classics on which queuing might be expected at busy times.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Don't Let Go
10m. The left arete is started on the right (useful flake out right) then swing left to tackle the crack through the left-hand...
 
1 Stars
Strong
E2 5c
2
Lorraine Top 50
12m. A little beauty and doubtless harder than you will be expecting. A fingery layback and long stretch gains the break. Pump...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
VS 5a
3
Little Red Rooster
10m. The thin flaky wall leads to the bulges. Pull through (runners to the left) then finish using the solitary left-hand...
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
E1 5c
4
Runt
8m. The stunted flakes on the right. Short lived.
 VS 5a
5
Crescent Wall
8m. The left side of the buttress is climbed left then right. Pleasant.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
S 4b
6
Pitcher Wall
10m. Jugtastic climbing but the rock is still a bit snappy. Some weaving is required to make use of the best of the pitchers....
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
HVS 5a
7
The Belford Pie Shop
10m. The smooth wall has some taxing moves at half-height.
 
Technical
Crimpy
E3 6a
8
Castle Crack Top 50
10m. A cracker at the grade, steep and quite pushy feeling. Pull up and right into the crack and follow it on excellent holds....
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
HVD
9
Bella
8m. Pull over the low roof left and climb to the niche. Finish up the fluted wall.
 
Pumpy
E2 5c
10
Sue
9m. Follow the slanting cracks into the middle of the face then move back right and climb flakes just short of the arete.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
S 4c
11
Sue Direct
9m. Follow Sue to the middle of the face then finish directly and delicately up the wall.
 
Technical
Rounded
HVS 5b
12
Flake Wall
8m. The left arete of the deep chimney on generous holds.
 
Rounded
D
13
Flake Chimney
8m. The deep rift on the right.
 
Graunchy
D
  • Latest Comments

    For BOWDEN DOORS

    Yellow Peril
    "Not a route to fall off.....ankle smasher...at best." 12/Jun

    Tiger's Wall
    "VS in all guides I've seen. Is about the same as lorraine in difficulty" 22/Nov top50

    Russet Groove
    "Excellent diff. My first ever lead and still an exellent route!" 10/Apr top50

    Klondyke Wall
    "You have to go a fair way before getting any gear, after which its all over. Ni..." 16/Nov top50

    Jock Strap
    "I'm 8ft 2 and thought it was V1" 20/Oct

    Scorpion
    "not one move on this climb is more than 4b. the top crux is protected by wires, ..." 19/Oct

    Lorraine
    "I'm a thug, and it was a piece of piss to solo. It's still clearly and objective..." 26/Jul top50

    Lorraine
    "HVS. End of debate you thugs....................." 21/Aug top50

    Tiger's Wall
    "It is HVS but it isn't Northumberland HVS! Sacrelidge!" 29/Mar top50

    Jock Strap
    "No harder than the original" 06/Mar

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