Adjacent Areas
< Banana Wall and Tiger Wall | Castle Wall and Scorpion >
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level
5 minsWindy
A couple of fine buttresses with a selection of worthwhile climbs and a couple of real Bowden classics on which queuing might be expected at busy times. Guidebook page 318.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Don't Let Go 10m. The left arete is started on the right (useful flake out right) then swing left to tackle the crack through the left-hand... | 1 Stars Strong | E2 5c |
2 |
Lorraine Top 50 12m. A little beauty and doubtless harder than you will be expecting. A fingery layback and long stretch gains the break. Pump... 6 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | VS 5a |
3 |
Little Red Rooster 10m. The thin flaky wall leads to the bulges. Pull through (runners to the left) then finish using the solitary left-hand... | 1 Stars Crimpy | E1 5c |
4 |
Runt 8m. The stunted flakes on the right. Short lived. | VS 5a | |
5 |
Crescent Wall 8m. The left side of the buttress is climbed left then right. Pleasant. | 1 Stars Rounded | S 4b |
6 |
Pitcher Wall 10m. Jugtastic climbing but the rock is still a bit snappy. Some weaving is required to make use of the best of the pitchers.... | 1 Stars Pumpy Loose | HVS 5a |
7 |
The Belford Pie Shop 10m. The smooth wall has some taxing moves at half-height. | Technical Crimpy | E3 6a |
8 |
Castle Crack Top 50 10m. A cracker at the grade, steep and quite pushy feeling. Pull up and right into the crack and follow it on excellent holds.... | 3 Stars Pumpy Graunchy | HVD |
9 |
Bella 8m. Pull over the low roof left and climb to the niche. Finish up the fluted wall. | Pumpy | E2 5c |
10 |
Sue 9m. Follow the slanting cracks into the middle of the face then move back right and climb flakes just short of the arete. | 1 Stars Rounded | S 4c |
11 |
Sue Direct 9m. Follow Sue to the middle of the face then finish directly and delicately up the wall. | Technical Rounded | HVS 5b |
12 |
Flake Wall 8m. The left arete of the deep chimney on generous holds. | Rounded | D |
13 |
Flake Chimney 8m. The deep rift on the right. | Graunchy | D |
