Castle Wall and Scorpion

Trad
Sun from mid-morning
5 mins
Level

The small bulbous buttress under the wall and the wider face to the right has some interesting climbing up flakes and cracks plus some fingery test-pieces up the intervening 'blank' walls. Apart from Scorpion and Crab Wall, the area is not especially popular.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Castle Wall
8m. Climb the face rightwards and finish up the deep flutings.
 S 4b
2
Wall Crack
8m. A tricky start up the leaning crack leads to easy ground.
 
Strong
VS 4c
3
Triple Cracks
6m. The trio of offset cracks give a good and awkward little pitch.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
HS 4c
4
Short Crack
4m. A couple of jamming moves that are over too soon.
 VD
5
Creepy Crawly
The left-hand side of the wall has this technical tinker.
 
Technical
Crimpy
V3 6A
6
The Harvest Bug
Trend left up the line of poor holds that cross the drainage streak. Another technical piece of climbing.
 
Technical
Crimpy
V3 6A
7
Woolman's Wall
10m. Start up thin flakes then head left to a thinner creaking one and a worrying finish.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
Loose
VS 5a
8
Listen to the Rain
10m. A direct finish to Woolman's Wall. A couple of flakes point the way to the harrowing final couple of moves.
 
Fluttery
E4 5c
9
The Lobster
10m. Climb to the arch, pull over, then climb the taxing wall to a finish up a short flake-crack.
 E2 5c
10
Crab Wall
8m. Climb steeply then follow the large rounded flakes to the top with hardly a sideways move in sight.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HS 4b
11
Scorpion
8m. Access the slanting groove and climb this to its top and a tricky exit. The scoured state of the footholds points to plenty...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Rounded
VS 4c
12
Nutcracker
8m. The broken flake is followed to its end then trend right up the wall to the arete. A direct finish is 5c.
 HVS 5b
13
Brutally Handsome
7m. Do battle with the hanging nose. Climb left up the lower section until a hold on the right allows the snout to be accessed,...
 
Strong
E2 5c
14
Nose Chimney
7m. The deep rift is often used as a descent route.
 D
  • Latest Comments

    For BOWDEN DOORS

    Yellow Peril
    "Not a route to fall off.....ankle smasher...at best." 12/Jun

    Tiger's Wall
    "VS in all guides I've seen. Is about the same as lorraine in difficulty" 22/Nov top50

    Russet Groove
    "Excellent diff. My first ever lead and still an exellent route!" 10/Apr top50

    Klondyke Wall
    "You have to go a fair way before getting any gear, after which its all over. Ni..." 16/Nov top50

    Jock Strap
    "I'm 8ft 2 and thought it was V1" 20/Oct

    Scorpion
    "not one move on this climb is more than 4b. the top crux is protected by wires, ..." 19/Oct

    Lorraine
    "I'm a thug, and it was a piece of piss to solo. It's still clearly and objective..." 26/Jul top50

    Lorraine
    "HVS. End of debate you thugs....................." 21/Aug top50

    Tiger's Wall
    "It is HVS but it isn't Northumberland HVS! Sacrelidge!" 29/Mar top50

    Jock Strap
    "No harder than the original" 06/Mar

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