Adjacent Areas
< Lorraine and Castle Crack | Leaning Grooves and Canada Crack >
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level
5 minsWindy
The small bulbous buttress under the wall and the wider face to the right has some interesting climbing up flakes and cracks plus some fingery test-pieces up the intervening 'blank' walls. Apart from Scorpion and Crab Wall, the area is not especially popular. Guidebook page 319.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Castle Wall 8m. Climb the face rightwards and finish up the deep flutings. | S 4b | |
2 |
Wall Crack 8m. A tricky start up the leaning crack leads to easy ground. | Strong | VS 4c |
3 |
Triple Cracks 6m. The trio of offset cracks give a good and awkward little pitch. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Crimpy | HS 4c |
4 |
Short Crack 4m. A couple of jamming moves that are over too soon. | VD | |
5 |
Creepy Crawly The left-hand side of the wall has this technical tinker. | Technical Crimpy | V3 6a |
6 |
The Harvest Bug Trend left up the line of poor holds that cross the drainage streak. Another technical piece of climbing. | Technical Crimpy | V3 6a |
7 |
Woolman's Wall 10m. Start up thin flakes then head left to a thinner creaking one and a worrying finish. | 1 Stars Fluttery Loose | VS 5a |
8 |
Listen to the Rain 10m. A direct finish to Woolman's Wall. A couple of flakes point the way to the harrowing final couple of moves. | Fluttery | E4 5c |
9 |
The Lobster 10m. Climb to the arch, pull over, then climb the taxing wall to a finish up a short flake-crack. | E2 5c | |
10 |
Crab Wall 8m. Climb steeply then follow the large rounded flakes to the top with hardly a sideways move in sight. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Pumpy | HS 4b |
11 |
Scorpion 8m. Access the slanting groove and climb this to its top and a tricky exit. The scoured state of the footholds points to plenty... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Rounded | VS 4c |
12 |
Nutcracker 8m. The broken flake is followed to its end then trend right up the wall to the arete. A direct finish is 5c. | HVS 5b | |
13 |
Brutally Handsome 7m. Do battle with the hanging nose. Climb left up the lower section until a hold on the right allows the snout to be accessed,... | Strong | E2 5c |
14 |
Nose Chimney 7m. The deep rift is often used as a descent route. | D | |
