Leaning Grooves and Canada Crack

Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level
4 mins

The central section of the cliff has many fine climbs up interesting features and on good rock. All of those listed here are well worth the effort. Guidebook page 320.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Blocked Chimney Corner
7m. The groove that bounds the wall is obvious from its name.
 HS 4c
2
Second Leaning Groove
8m. The left-hand of the two right-slanting grooves gives steady climbing to a leftward exit and a sprint up the flutings.
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS 5a
3
First Leaning Groove
10m. Climb the right-hand groove - the flake out right is used by most - then make bold moves to better holds and a steep...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
HVS 5a
4
Street Runner
10m. The wall direct gives a bold pitch. Access the flake on First Leaning Groove from the right then move right across the...
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E4 5c
5
The Big Splash
10m. The two horizontals in the right-hand side of the wall are linked by an extended reach and usually a bit of pedalling.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
E2 5c
6
Long John
10m. Climb into and up the hanging chimney. Awkward.
 
Graunchy
S 4c
7
Transformer
The sharp arete is accessed from the right and gives a couple of taxing moves until Jackdaw Crack just to the right can be...
 
1 Stars
Technical
V3 6a
8
Jackdaw Crack
10m. Do battle with the disjointed cracks in the left wall of the long groove. The move between the cracks is tricky, as is the...
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HVS 5b
9
Long Crack
11m. The long widening crack in the groove gives a good tussle.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
10
First Century
10m. The wall just right of Long Crack is bold and hard. There is a decent hold at about half-height where a tough undercut...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Rounded
E4 6a
11
Klondyke Wall Top 50
10m. Climb round the curving overlap and continue up the wall until forced right to use the edge of Canada Crack to exit.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5c
12
Canada Crack
10m. A great climb, strenuous but in a nice honest way. Layback the right-hand side of the flake then hand traverse its top...
 
3 Stars
Strong
HVS 5a
13
Quatra Twinkley
8m. The arete is climbed on its left-hand side to a rounded exit.
 
Pumpy
Rounded
E3 6a
14
Dog Eat Dog
A popular highball up the bulging wall just right of the arete.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
V5 6b
  • Latest Comments

    For BOWDEN DOORS

    Yellow Peril
    "Not a route to fall off.....ankle smasher...at best." 12/Jun

    Tiger's Wall
    "VS in all guides I've seen. Is about the same as lorraine in difficulty" 22/Nov top50

    Russet Groove
    "Excellent diff. My first ever lead and still an exellent route!" 10/Apr top50

    Klondyke Wall
    "You have to go a fair way before getting any gear, after which its all over. Ni..." 16/Nov top50

    Jock Strap
    "I'm 8ft 2 and thought it was V1" 20/Oct

    Scorpion
    "not one move on this climb is more than 4b. the top crux is protected by wires, ..." 19/Oct

    Lorraine
    "I'm a thug, and it was a piece of piss to solo. It's still clearly and objective..." 26/Jul top50

    Lorraine
    "HVS. End of debate you thugs....................." 21/Aug top50

    Tiger's Wall
    "It is HVS but it isn't Northumberland HVS! Sacrelidge!" 29/Mar top50

    Jock Strap
    "No harder than the original" 06/Mar

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