Adjacent Areas
< Castle Wall and Scorpion | The Overhanging Crack >
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level
4 minsWindy
The central section of the cliff has many fine climbs up interesting features and on good rock. All of those listed here are well worth the effort. Guidebook page 320.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Blocked Chimney Corner 7m. The groove that bounds the wall is obvious from its name. | HS 4c | |
2 |
Second Leaning Groove 8m. The left-hand of the two right-slanting grooves gives steady climbing to a leftward exit and a sprint up the flutings. | 1 Stars Technical | VS 5a |
3 |
First Leaning Groove 10m. Climb the right-hand groove - the flake out right is used by most - then make bold moves to better holds and a steep... | 2 Stars Fluttery | HVS 5a |
4 |
Street Runner 10m. The wall direct gives a bold pitch. Access the flake on First Leaning Groove from the right then move right across the... | 1 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E4 5c |
5 |
The Big Splash 10m. The two horizontals in the right-hand side of the wall are linked by an extended reach and usually a bit of pedalling. | 1 Stars Reachy Rounded | E2 5c |
6 |
Long John 10m. Climb into and up the hanging chimney. Awkward. | Graunchy | S 4c |
7 |
Transformer The sharp arete is accessed from the right and gives a couple of taxing moves until Jackdaw Crack just to the right can be... | 1 Stars Technical | V3 6a |
8 |
Jackdaw Crack 10m. Do battle with the disjointed cracks in the left wall of the long groove. The move between the cracks is tricky, as is the... | 1 Stars Graunchy | HVS 5b |
9 |
Long Crack 11m. The long widening crack in the groove gives a good tussle. | 2 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5a |
10 |
First Century 10m. The wall just right of Long Crack is bold and hard. There is a decent hold at about half-height where a tough undercut... | 1 Stars Technical Rounded | E4 6a |
11 |
Klondyke Wall Top 50 10m. Climb round the curving overlap and continue up the wall until forced right to use the edge of Canada Crack to exit. 2 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | E2 5c |
12 |
Canada Crack 10m. A great climb, strenuous but in a nice honest way. Layback the right-hand side of the flake then hand traverse its top... | 3 Stars Strong | HVS 5a |
13 |
Quatra Twinkley 8m. The arete is climbed on its left-hand side to a rounded exit. | Pumpy Rounded | E3 6a |
14 |
Dog Eat Dog A popular highball up the bulging wall just right of the arete. | 2 Stars Technical Strong | V5 6b |
