Adjacent Areas
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Afternoon sun
Level
3 minsWindy
The first section of the crag reached from the road consists of a couple of steep walls that appeared to have been quarried long ago. There is an excellent set of climbs here across the grade spectrum. Guidebook page 322.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Crater Maker 10m. A hard climb up the wall just right of the corner. | Technical Crimpy | E4 6a |
2 |
Flake Crack 12m. The slab and flake lead to a steep finish rightwards. | 1 Stars | S 4b |
3 |
Goose Step 12m. From a squat pedestal, climb up and left to a block in the crack then move out right to a couple of finger-slots in the... | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | E3 6a |
4 |
Kaiser Bill 12m. Climb via two short square grooves to reach the thin flake-crack in the right-hand side of the face, up this, trending... | 1 Stars Technical | E4 6b |
5 |
Grovel Groove Top 50 12m. Better climbing than the name suggests, if you stay outside the groove. Up the left-slanting trough to a steep juggy... 1 user comment | 2 Stars | S 4a |
6 |
The Gauleiter 12m. Starting from an embedded block, the centre of the russet wall has hard moves at half-height. | 2 Stars Technical | E3 6a |
7 |
The Scoop Top 50 12m. A tricky start (especially for the short) gains the scoop which has more holds and runners than it appears from the... 3 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | VS 4c |
8 |
Black and Tan Direct 12m. Start up a blank groove and climb the face above by fingery and reachy moves. | Reachy Technical | E2 6a |
9 |
Black and Tan Top 50 14m. Start up the black flakes (hard) then move out right steeply to access the easier, left-slanting cracks to finish. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical | S 4c |
10 |
Y Front 6m. The right-hand side of the face just left of the arete. | 1 Stars | V3 6a |
11 |
Jock Strap 6m. Start up Y Front but trend left. Also recorded as Y Front Direct and Left-hand Finish. There are several variations here. 3 user comments | Technical | V5 6b |
12 |
Second Staircase 12m. The slabby ramp and steeper juggy finish is a worthwhile beginners' climb. | 1 Stars | D |
13 |
Deception Crack 12m. The steep widening crack in the left-hand section of the wall is approached via a short slab and followed pleasantly. | 1 Stars | VD |
14 |
Stretcher Wall 14m. Good (and reachy) climbing up the left-hand side of the face. Start up the black right-facing flake then climb more or... | 2 Stars Reachy | E1 5c |
15 |
The Viper 16m. Start just right of the black rock and climb to the break. Traverse right until below the beckoning thin crack, and gains... | 1 Stars Technical | E1 6a |
16 |
Hissing Sid 14m. A bit of an eliminate crossing the traverse of The Viper then heading straight up the wall above. | Technical Crimpy | E1 5c |
17 |
Main Wall Top 50 16m. A classic, devious but with excellent moves. Climb the left-hand of the two blackened grooves to its top, pull right then... | 3 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5b |
18 |
Main Wall Eliminate 16m. The right-hand blackened flake leads to the break, the short wall above gives some precarious moves. Continue steeply just... | 1 Stars Technical | HVS 5b |
19 |
Handrail Eliminate 10m. The thin flake and wall above are, as expected, an eliminate. | Technical Crimpy | HVS 5c |
20 |
Handrail 10m. The flakes a short distance left of the arete give a few interesting moves. | Crimpy | VS 4c |
21 |
Introductory Staircase 12m. The line of big steps is the first, last and easiest route on the cliff. The crack up and right is Banister Crack, VDiff... | 1 Stars | M |
