Main Wall

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Afternoon sun
3 mins
Level

The first section of the crag reached from the road consists of a couple of steep walls that appeared to have been quarried long ago. There is an excellent set of climbs here across the grade spectrum.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Crater Maker
10m. A hard climb up the wall just right of the corner.
 
Technical
Crimpy
E4 6a
2
Flake Crack
12m. The slab and flake lead to a steep finish rightwards.
 
1 Stars
S 4b
3
Goose Step
12m. From a squat pedestal, climb up and left to a block in the crack then move out right to a couple of finger-slots in the...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E3 6a
4
Kaiser Bill
12m. Climb via two short square grooves to reach the thin flake-crack in the right-hand side of the face, up this, trending...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4 6b
5
Grovel Groove Top 50
12m. Better climbing than the name suggests, if you stay outside the groove. Up the left-slanting trough to a steep juggy...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
S 4a
6
The Gauleiter
12m. Starting from an embedded block, the centre of the russet wall has hard moves at half-height.
 
2 Stars
Technical
E3 6a
7
The Scoop Top 50
12m. A tricky start (especially for the short) gains the scoop which has more holds and runners than it appears from the...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
VS 4c
8
Black and Tan Direct
12m. Start up a blank groove and climb the face above by fingery and reachy moves.
 
Reachy
Technical
E2 6a
9
Black and Tan Top 50
14m. Start up the black flakes (hard) then move out right steeply to access the easier, left-slanting cracks to finish.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
S 4c
10
Y Front
6m. The right-hand side of the face just left of the arete.
 
1 Stars
V3 6A
11
Jock Strap
6m. Start up Y Front but trend left. Also recorded as Y Front Direct and Left-hand Finish. There are several variations here.
3 user comments
 
Technical
V5 6C
12
Second Staircase
12m. The slabby ramp and steeper juggy finish is a worthwhile beginners' climb.
 
1 Stars
D
13
Deception Crack
12m. The steep widening crack in the left-hand section of the wall is approached via a short slab and followed pleasantly.
 
1 Stars
VD
14
Stretcher Wall
14m. Good (and reachy) climbing up the left-hand side of the face. Start up the black right-facing flake then climb more or...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
E1 5c
15
The Viper
16m. Start just right of the black rock and climb to the break. Traverse right until below the beckoning thin crack, and gains...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1 6a
16
Hissing Sid
14m. A bit of an eliminate crossing the traverse of The Viper then heading straight up the wall above.
 
Technical
Crimpy
E1 5c
17
Main Wall Top 50
16m. A classic, devious but with excellent moves. Climb the left-hand of the two blackened grooves to its top, pull right then...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5b
18
Main Wall Eliminate
16m. The right-hand blackened flake leads to the break, the short wall above gives some precarious moves. Continue steeply just...
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS 5b
19
Handrail Eliminate
10m. The thin flake and wall above are, as expected, an eliminate.
 
Technical
Crimpy
HVS 5c
20
Handrail
10m. The flakes a short distance left of the arete give a few interesting moves.
 
Crimpy
VS 4c
21
Introductory Staircase
12m. The line of big steps is the first, last and easiest route on the cliff. The crack up and right is Banister Crack, VDiff...
 
1 Stars
M
  • Latest Comments

    For BOWDEN DOORS

    Yellow Peril
    "Not a route to fall off.....ankle smasher...at best." 12/Jun

    Tiger's Wall
    "VS in all guides I've seen. Is about the same as lorraine in difficulty" 22/Nov top50

    Russet Groove
    "Excellent diff. My first ever lead and still an exellent route!" 10/Apr top50

    Klondyke Wall
    "You have to go a fair way before getting any gear, after which its all over. Ni..." 16/Nov top50

    Jock Strap
    "I'm 8ft 2 and thought it was V1" 20/Oct

    Scorpion
    "not one move on this climb is more than 4b. the top crux is protected by wires, ..." 19/Oct

    Lorraine
    "I'm a thug, and it was a piece of piss to solo. It's still clearly and objective..." 26/Jul top50

    Lorraine
    "HVS. End of debate you thugs....................." 21/Aug top50

    Tiger's Wall
    "It is HVS but it isn't Northumberland HVS! Sacrelidge!" 29/Mar top50

    Jock Strap
    "No harder than the original" 06/Mar

    Lorraine
    "Absolutely superb. Shouldn't be upgraded as its so easily read from the ground...." 29/Jan top50

    Abanana
    "Its a solo but if you can do the first moves you'll be ok with the rest" 22/Dec

    The Scoop
    "Thirded. Shortarses of the world unite!" 11/Dec top50

    Poseidon Adventure
    "Should also be in the top 50!" 25/Sep top50

    Triple Cracks
    "Awkward Bugger" 17/Sep

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