Forbidden Head

Adjacent Areas
< None  |  Bridge Buttress >

DWS
Lots of sun!
4 mins
Downhill
Abseil
Tidal

Forbidden Head constitutes the headland just south of the car park and has a number of lines, including some very steep projects.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Iron Pirate
15m. The hanging groove in the very steep arete of the south face is brilliant. Abseil down a steep slab to gain a ledge. Swing...
 
3 Stars
DWS
Pumpy
Crimpy
Fluttery
6c+ S2
2
Fooled by a Smile
15m. A brilliant corner climb, but a spring tide-only route. From the corner ledge, traverse right and climb the cream streak...
 
2 Stars
DWS
Pumpy
Fluttery
7a S3
3
Blue Mood
15m. A crimpy start finally gains the blind layback flake in the upper section. Follow this to a tough move and a left exit.
 
1 Stars
DWS
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
6c S2
4
Love Action
15m. All the hard moves are low down. From the start corner on the left, follow a bewildering series of crimps across the wall,...
 
1 Stars
DWS
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7a S1
5
Strange Love
16m. This excellent line nibbles across the crimpy lower face, before taking the beautiful hanging arete above. The climbing...
 
3 Stars
DWS
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7a S1