Blind Bay - DWS

Adjacent Areas
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DWS
No sun
10 mins
Downhill
Tidal

Blind Bay consists of the vertical walls around the Beat Ledge feature, and the deep, intimidating Alien Cave, found over to its right. The routes on the left side of the bay are quite a proposition, but the routes found within the Alien Cave itself are something else. This architecturally-stunning cave is one of the absolute bastions of S3 climbing in the UK.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
White Fang
20m. From the Beat Ledge, traverse left to the arete recess, and climb the arete on its right side past a white flake to a...
 
1 Stars
DWS
Technical
6b+ S1
2
El Lobo
20m. From the Beat Ledge, move left to gain a wide crack, and climb this to a wild move leftwards to join White Fang.
 
1 Stars
DWS
Pumpy
6b+ S2
3
Aristocrat
12m/25m. Traverse out rightwards from the Beat Ledge to pockets, and climb the thin wall above (crux) to the half-height ledge....
 
1 Stars
DWS
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7a S1
4
Toffee Nose
12m/25m. Traverse rightwards to the sharp arete, and climb it precariously on its left side (crux) to gain the half-height...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
DWS
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7a S1
5
Snobs
12m. A fine route in its own right and a great way to get off the last two routes. Traverse right around the arete, crux, into...
 
1 Stars
DWS
Pumpy
6a S1
6
The One-Eyed Man
35m (total). This line is one of the best-positioned DWS's in the UK - it's just stupendous. Brilliant and sustained climbing...
 
3 Stars
DWS
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
7a S3
7
The Blind Man's Traverse
25m (total). A pumpy and stylish method of gaining the inner cave. Traverse all the way from the Beat ledge, to arrive at the...
 
2 Stars
DWS
Technical
Pumpy
7a S0
8
The Abyss
50m (total). An astounding voyage into the cave and up through the roofs above; one of Julian Lines' very finest contributions...
 
3 Stars
DWS
Strong
Pumpy
Fluttery
7b S3
9
The Anti Matterhorn
35m. A mammoth outing. The committing crux is at around 15m at a good spring tide. From the lower traverse in, climb the groove...
 
3 Stars
DWS
Reachy
Strong
Pumpy
Fluttery
7b S3
10
Abduction
35m. Another crazy piece of climbing, threading its way through the cave. Traverse into the back of the cave, move left onto...
 
3 Stars
DWS
Strong
Pumpy
Fluttery
7a S3
11
Deep Water Alien
40m. This escapade is slightly more amenable, with a possible early rightwards exit at hand. Traverse the wall into a cave,...
 
2 Stars
DWS
Strong
Pumpy
6c S2
12
Boomerang
18m. After the lower traverse into the cave, take on the hanging traverse line in the roof above, which takes you all the way...
 
1 Stars
DWS
Pumpy
6b S1
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  • Latest Comments

    For MOTHER CAREY'S

    Joyous Gard
    "Agree- felt more like E1 to me due to the length, steepness and exposure. Very s..." 28/May

    Narrow Carriage
    "Good route with a tricky move in the groove and fine moves higher up." 16/Apr

    Toffee Nose
    "This is a great route, deffinatly recomended" 19/Dec

    Rock Idol
    "A wonderful route of course, but surprised everyone votes E1. 5a, well protected..." 05/Sep top50

    Zeppelin
    "amazing climb! If you train on indoor overhangs then you have absolutely no excu..." 20/Aug

    Heroes
    "Too eliminate and escapable to be worthwhile. Stepped onto pedestal for a rest t..." 08/Jul

    Zeppelin
    "same as above, i found the top corner the crux" 09/Jan

    Brazen Buttress
    "Still the best route I've done at MCK, delightfully sustained 5b moves. Not E3 (..." 31/Aug

    Just Klingon
    "Finished up the right hand groove (to the right of the last big thread), and pro..." 26/Jun

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