Adjacent Areas
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DWS
Lots of sun!
Level
10 minsTidal
Windy
Now here's a venue that offers a little of everything. Kato Zawn, the crag that most soloists have failed to find on at least one occasion. The zawn offers climbing up to 13m high and the rock is as good as it gets. The absolute classic here is The Wizard, which goes into the history books as the first ground-up 8a new DWS route in the UK. For normal humans, the right / east side of the zawn gives some surprising grades, with Way Down and Hate providing the perfect introductory 5 circuit.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
The Wizard 12m. This is just classic sustained territory. It takes the monumentally-steep groove on the left side of the overhanging face.... | 3 Stars DWS Strong Pumpy | 8a S1 |
2 |
Waterland 12m. Steep, sustained, and excellent. From the lower ledges, fire up on jugs and side-pulls to a crux on the even steeper upper... | 2 Stars DWS Strong Pumpy | 7b+ S1 |
3 |
Rusty Dog 12m. Another marvellous and pumpy route. Climb the right side of the base pedestal (take care, here), and gain the ramps above.... | 2 Stars DWS Strong Pumpy | 7b S2 |
4 |
Not Now, Kato! 12m. The cracked groove 3m right of Rusty Dog offers some really excellent and sustained climbing. From the first section of... | 2 Stars DWS Pumpy | 6b S1 |
5 |
The Stairs 13m. The route features some rather unusual DWS territory; it's steep overall, but... is something of a staircase. Climb the... | 1 Stars DWS Technical Fluttery | 6b S3 |
6 |
Love 12m. A really nice route, although slightly scary on the few moves above the narrow trench. From the very base of the wall,... | 1 Stars DWS Technical | 6a S2 |
7 |
A Thin Line 11m. Steep and fun with one very hard sequence. From the small ledge, climb up to the overlap on the arete above. Make a very... | 1 Stars DWS Strong | 7a S0 |
8 |
Mad World 8m. Great moves. A thin headwall crack can be seen from the other side of the zawn; the route takes this on. Down-climb Hate... | 2 Stars DWS Technical Crimpy | 7a+ S0 |
9 |
Hate 9m. A perfect intro to DWS! From Way Down, climb up to gain the diagonal fault; follow it rightwards all the way to an easy and... | 2 Stars DWS | 5 S0 |
10 |
Way Down 9m. Why don't all DWS crags have an access route as well placed as this? If onlyÉ Find the diagonal fault from the top, and... | 1 Stars DWS | 4+ S0 |