Kato Zawn

Adjacent Areas
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DWS
Lots of sun!
Level
10 mins
Tidal

Now here's a venue that offers a little of everything. Kato Zawn, the crag that most soloists have failed to find on at least one occasion. The zawn offers climbing up to 13m high and the rock is as good as it gets. The absolute classic here is The Wizard, which goes into the history books as the first ground-up 8a new DWS route in the UK. For normal humans, the right / east side of the zawn gives some surprising grades, with Way Down and Hate providing the perfect introductory 5 circuit.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Wizard
12m. This is just classic sustained territory. It takes the monumentally-steep groove on the left side of the overhanging face....
 
3 Stars
DWS
Strong
Pumpy
8a S1
2
Waterland
12m. Steep, sustained, and excellent. From the lower ledges, fire up on jugs and side-pulls to a crux on the even steeper upper...
 
2 Stars
DWS
Strong
Pumpy
7b+ S1
3
Rusty Dog
12m. Another marvellous and pumpy route. Climb the right side of the base pedestal (take care, here), and gain the ramps above....
 
2 Stars
DWS
Strong
Pumpy
7b S2
4
Not Now, Kato!
12m. The cracked groove 3m right of Rusty Dog offers some really excellent and sustained climbing. From the first section of...
 
2 Stars
DWS
Pumpy
6b S1
5
The Stairs
13m. The route features some rather unusual DWS territory; it's steep overall, but... is something of a staircase. Climb the...
 
1 Stars
DWS
Technical
Fluttery
6b S3
6
Love
12m. A really nice route, although slightly scary on the few moves above the narrow trench. From the very base of the wall,...
 
1 Stars
DWS
Technical
6a S2
7
A Thin Line
11m. Steep and fun with one very hard sequence. From the small ledge, climb up to the overlap on the arete above. Make a very...
 
1 Stars
DWS
Strong
7a S0
8
Mad World
8m. Great moves. A thin headwall crack can be seen from the other side of the zawn; the route takes this on. Down-climb Hate...
 
2 Stars
DWS
Technical
Crimpy
7a+ S0
9
Hate
9m. A perfect intro to DWS! From Way Down, climb up to gain the diagonal fault; follow it rightwards all the way to an easy and...
 
2 Stars
DWS
5 S0
10
Way Down
9m. Why don't all DWS crags have an access route as well placed as this? If onlyÉ Find the diagonal fault from the top, and...
 
1 Stars
DWS
4+ S0