Adjacent Areas
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DWS
Early morning sun
Downhill
5 minsTidal
Windy
Craig Stirling is divided into two distinct buttresses separated by Fallen Block Bay. The East Buttress is a well-textured schist crag, offering some excellent climbing in a lovely setting. The West Buttress is a similar great piece of rock, with tasty routes of all grades.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Wet Pussy Top 50 18m. Climb the enticing square cut arete through the overlap, before contemplating the easier upper wall. Take a good look at... | 2 Stars DWS Technical Crimpy | 6c S3 |
2 |
Depth Charge Top 50 20m. A stunning line across the impending wall to gain the hanging arete, first sniffed out, amazingly, by a young Pat... | 2 Stars DWS Pumpy | 6a S3 |
3 |
Sea Cat Direct Project 18m. The right edge of the fantastic wavy wall surely deserves some attention for those with the confidence. A blind, fingery... | DWS | ?? S3 |
4 |
Depth Charge Direct Top 50 18m. Absolutely classic deep water soloing territory. Jump onto the flying arete to join the parent route. Easier when it's... | 3 Stars DWS Pumpy Crimpy | 6b+ S1 |
5 |
War Without Tears Top 50 20m. This fun but burly offering leaves Jeux Sans Frontiers, and improvises along the lip of the roof to gain the huge jug out... | 2 Stars DWS Technical Strong | 7b S1 |
6 |
Jeux Sans Frontiers 20m. Takes on the twin converging cracks in the overhang, and then the easier crack in the wall above. Good fun at a high tide,... | 1 Stars DWS Strong | 6b+ S1 |
7 |
Upper East Girdle Top 50 25m. A good find, with some exposed climbing at an amenable standard. Traverse in from the Fallen Block Bay, taking the corner... | 2 Stars DWS | 5 S1 |
8 |
Eastern Girdle 15m. Pleasant climbing. Heading west-to-east gives a good entry to Depth Charge and the rest. 1 user comment | 1 Stars DWS | 4 S1 |
9 |
Stirling Bomber 6m. A dinky little arete, starting from the lower ledge. It couldn't be any saferÉ go on, take the challenge! From the upper... 1 user comment | DWS Technical Crimpy | 6b S0 |
10 |
Lean Meat Top 50 20m. The mind-numbing overhanging flake is THE classic tick here, another Scottish plum picked by Pat Littlejohn. Step on,... | 3 Stars DWS Pumpy | 6b+ S1 |
11 |
Raw Meat Top 50 20m. Half-way across Lean Meat, take a deep breath and forge up the wall, to a wobbly rock-over onto the yellow slab, finish up... | 2 Stars DWS Pumpy Fluttery | 6c S2 |
12 |
Red Meat 10m. Pull on as for Lean Meat, crimp rightwards into a scoop before snapping for the hold on the arete, and continue up the... | 1 Stars DWS Technical Crimpy | 7a S1 |
13 |
Jack Sprat 20m. A short, safe and thoroughly absorbing finger-tweaking traverse, which needs a drying breeze. Can be reversed (S0), or,... | 1 Stars DWS Technical Crimpy | 6b S1 |
14 |
Roaring Forties Top 50 10m. Leave the Jack Sprat traverse and step up a gear to pull swiftly through the overlap, sidle rightwards under the monster... | 2 Stars DWS Technical Strong | 7a+ S0 |
15 |
Sushi Top 50 15m. Crikey, this isn't the route you came to doÉis it? The monster roof above the Roaring Forties is outrageous. One measly... | 3 Stars DWS Technical Strong Crimpy | 7c S1 |
16 |
Hell and High Water Top 50 30m. Apt - wait for high water, I'm not so sure about hell! Make a diagonal traverse away from Jack Sprat to gain a perch; the... | 2 Stars DWS Technical Fluttery | 7a S2 |
17 |
Between the Devil and the Deep Blue Sea Top 50 30m. Classic boldness; sorts the men out from the boys. Take the rising traverse out from Jack Sprat, and, at the cul de sac,... | 3 Stars DWS Crimpy Fluttery | 6c S3 |
18 |
Western Girdle 30m. Added here for completeness; it provides good climbing but is not entirely above water at the start and finish. Abseil... | 1 Stars DWS Crimpy | 6b+ S3 |