Baby Taipan Wall

Adjacent Areas
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DWS
Morning sun
60 mins
Up and Down
Tidal

The Baby Taipan Wall (GR 996171 on O/S map 15) is located on the Rubha Coigeach peninsula, just to the north of the village of Reiff. This superb wall of 20? overhanging sandstone is a cross between Taipan Wall and Mallorca's Diablo! Although it has been known about for some time, it was only developed as a DWS venue in 2006. The cliff is fifteen to eighteen metres high, with the meat of the routes generally found in the lower portion. Being south-east facing, the crag catches all the morning sun and the outlook to the peaks of Suilven, Cul Mor, Stac Pollaidh are priceless. The drawback is …err… the approach! Guidebook page 198.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Land of Milk and Honey Top 50
30m. The excellent and pumpy break-line gives access to the other routes here. Great climbing along the perfect traverse,...
 
3 Stars
DWS
Pumpy
6b S0
2
Semi-skimmed Top 50
20m. The left-most line of holds on the central face. Expect slopers, layaways and dinner plates. A pleasurable grapple.
 
2 Stars
DWS
Pumpy
6c S1
3
Manuka Top 50
10m. A most enjoyable climb taking the left hand crack-line, just keep on pulling.
 
2 Stars
DWS
Pumpy
6b+ S1
4
Cyber Pimp Top 50
15m. The fine crack-line runs out at a shield; forge past this with vigour to a rest under the roof.
 
2 Stars
DWS
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
6c S1
5
Acacia Top 50
15m. The stunning flake-line cleaving the face. Muscular moves lead to a decent rest, and delicate shuffling out rightwards...
 
3 Stars
DWS
Strong
Pumpy
6b+ S1
6
The Ganges Top 50
15m. A superb and varied route, tackling the black overhanging flake feature; the finish is wonderfully delicate. Can suffer...
 
2 Stars
DWS
6b+ S1