The Nook

Adjacent Areas
< Max Wall  |  Nettle Buttress >

Sport
Sun and Shade
25 mins
Downhill
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

A small buttress with some steep and hard neglected sport routes that are not often in condition.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Perverted Mind
Up the slope, climb the vegetated wall to a corner and roof finish.
 E2 5c
2
Fuck Pig
The wall left of the corner/groove has some flakes. Climb up to these and bush bash on up to the top.
 E2 5c
3
Eddy's First
The corner left of the main roofs is difficult to enter. Finnish to the right of the roof.
 E2 6a
4
The Dukes of Earl (Grey)
The bolt-line starting at the foot of the slope. The bulge requires a long reach and some good foot work.
 
Reachy
Technical
7c
5
Michael Foot Jam
The left-hand side of the main roofs. A powerful climb where the obvious clue is in the route name and the crux move involves...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
7c+
6
A Cure for Arapiles
The central line was originally climbed using a big block which has since fallen off. It awaits a reascent.
 7b
7
Santiano
An old trad line that has been bolted to give a fine steep route which is probably now the most popular on the crag.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7a
8
Rock Umbrella
A savage roof test-piece with old gear. Climb up to a thin crack in the roof and finish standing at the lip. Connecting these...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
7b
9
The Storm
Yet more steep roof work just right of Rock Umbrella. The trick here is connecting the 2 jugs, one halfway across the roof and...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
7b+
10
A Bit of Nooky
Now things start getting really tricky. Super-steep moves lead up to a hard move past a bolt. Slap out right to a jug then...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
8a+
11
The Lockless Monster
The best of the hard routes. Climb a steep wall to the roof and cross this on good holds to a stopper move. Success here...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Strong
7c+
12
Theoria
An excellent route with moves suited to those who have been campusing. The desperate start is often by-passed by using the...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
8a+
13
There's Life in the Old Log Yet
The short but hideously steep wall right of the tree. No rests in the tree are allowed and it may be harder than 7c.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
7c
14
New Enemies
The steep wall below a thin tree.
 E3 6b
15
Powerplay
A boulder problem. A thread to marks the line.
 E3 6b
16
Zebedee Gets Syphilis
Zebedee's problem. Finish up a ramp.
 E3 6b