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Sport

No sun

Up and Down

20 mins

Seepage

Dry in the Rain

Long Wall provides four distinct sections. On the left is an area which takes a lot of seepage which can make the routes dirty long into the summer. Once cleaned up they provide some good sport with High Society and Kiss Me Hardy being two of the classic ticks of the Dale. The central section bulges impressively above an easier vertical wall. The routes tend to be short and powerful. Further right is the cut-away which is often dirty but does have a few items of interest. Right again the wall rears up in a continuous section of steep rock which gives fine technical and sustained routes and even that rare thing - hard limestone slab climbing. Guidebook page 174.

Route (click for voting and user comments)		Symbols	Grade
1	Super Orchic Short and technical moves past three bolts. 5m long.	Technical Crimpy	7b
2	Banana Republic The left-hand corner of the recess.		E2 5c
3	Columnus A powerful route through bulges on the left of the cut-away. The start is a bit obscured by a large tree.	Strong	7b+
4	The Orange Order Right of the corner with a finish over the roof.Banana Republic, E2 5c - The left-hand corner of the recess.	Technical	6c
5	Orange Free State Steep jug pulling through the centre of the cut-away. The final move proves to be a bit of a stopper. Often dirty.	Reachy	6b+
6	Berried A hard start and a blind finish over the widest part of the roof which requires a bit of a reach. Often dirty. Pass a small... 1 user comment	1 Stars Reachy	6c
7	Black Rights A technical wall leading to a rest at the break. The bulge above is awkward. The cleanest of the bunch. 1 user comment	1 Stars Technical	7b
8	High Society The first and still one of the best additions to Long Wall. Easier than it looks, but no pushover, with a final teasing move.... 3 user comments	2 Stars Technical Rounded	7a
9	Kiss Me Hardy An excellent route, the best of its grade on the wall. Climb the bulge right of High Society, either from the left or direct... 5 user comments	3 Stars Technical Pumpy	7a+
10	Kiss My Arcy A good companion to Kiss Me Hardy with similar climbing - a hard bulge then sustained moves above. 3 user comments	2 Stars Technical Pumpy	7b
11	Mystical Attainment A straightened out old trad route with a new direct finish. The bulge has a very reachy crux. 1 user comment	1 Stars Reachy Strong	7b+
12	Mouldwarp Wall Direct through the steepest section of bulges on very thin holds requiring two long reaches (or a desperate alternative... 1 user comment	1 Stars Reachy Technical	7c
13	Brothers in Arms The lower part is beefy climbing on undercuts but getting into the top groove is the crux.	1 Stars Strong Pumpy	7b+
14	Rouge Total Hard moves through the bulge eject you onto the steep upper wall. The easiest line through these bulges. There is an old...	1 Stars Strong	7b
15	Total Rock The next line through the right side of the bulges.	1 Stars	7c
16	Jungle Rock A veritable banquet for the biceps, this fine route demands a powerful approach. A spike hold marks the way. It lost some... 5 user comments	1 Stars Strong	7b+
17	Some Things Change A powerful bulge low down with undercuts and side-pulls, and a few tricky moves above. One final hard pull. Tricky second clip. 2 user comments	1 Stars Strong	7b+
18	Rolling Stone The wall between Balancing Act and the corner.		E4 6b
19	Fatal Attraction The easiest line hereabouts kicks off straight away with strenuous moves to gain the flake-line. Sporty moves up this lead to...	2 Stars Reachy	7a
20	Lucky Finger The bulging arete is sustained, technical and seldom climbed. Tricky to onsight and it can be dusty.	1 Stars Technical Pumpy	7b
21	The Balancing Act A hard route with contrasting technical sections. Finish over the top roof to a lower-off.Rolling Stone, E4 6b - The wall...	1 Stars Technical	7a+
22	Trick Show The centre of the recess. The start gives some very hard moves but there is a good breather before the final roof.	Technical Strong	7b+
23	Casamance Steep moves through bulges lead to the reachy finishing roof. This is easier if you don't use the obvious holds.	Reachy	7a+
24	Macumba An inferior and easier right-hand start to Casamance.	Reachy	7a+
25	Atlantic Realm Start below the big square roof. Good hard climbing and more sustained than it used to be when there was a huge hanging block...	1 Stars Strong Pumpy	7b+
26	Gob on the Mountain A short, sharp route right of the big roof, unfortunately it is rather unbalanced. Reach the first break then make a desperate...	1 Stars Technical Crimpy	7c
27	Meterol Quality climbing up the wall just to the right. Climb the wall to the break and stand in it. Step right then make hard pulls to... 1 user comment	2 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy	7b+
28	Breathless A wandering line with some fine climbing. Sadly the difficulty of the second clip makes it a serious undertaking and its bolted... 2 user comments	1 Stars Technical Pumpy Fluttery	E6 6c
29	Cathedral Taste Excellent, at last something for the aficionados of balance (well after the start). Crimp through the bulge to gain the (steep)... 4 user comments	2 Stars Technical Pumpy	7b+
30	À Bout de Souffle Another very technical and fine wall climb. Climb up to a stump, move up to undercuts - hard for the short - then make a... 1 user comment	2 Stars Reachy Crimpy	7c
31	Multiplex A neglected route with good climbing. Move up to the overlap then stretch left to a jug (bolt). Make a wild drop down to the... 2 user comments	2 Stars Pumpy	E4 6b
32	Smutt The direct start past a rotten peg.		E5 6c
33	Child Lock A reachy direct finish to Multiplex with a hard clip.	1 Stars Reachy	7a+
34	Hot Panties Technical moves which keep on coming to a tricky finish.	1 Stars Crimpy	7a
35	Steaming Strides Desperate moves up left from the 2nd bolt on Hot Panties.	Technical Crimpy	7a+
36	Skid Marks 16m. A poor route up a lone buttress 20m right of the end of Long Wall. The line is marked by 2 bolts and 2 pegs. Lower-off... 1 user comment	Technical Pumpy	6b+
37	Nookie Bear Direct to the lower-off on Hot Panties via three hard moves.	Technical Crimpy	7a+
38	Child's Play The last climb on the wall requires a runner or two, and a peg to protect it. Finish at the lower off of Hot Panties.	1 Stars	E4 6a

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